Draining/Flushing LT1 Coolant System
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Draining/Flushing LT1 Coolant System
Hi,
I just finished replacing the WP on my 92 LT1 and want to flush the entire coolant system.
Where are the block drain plugs/knock sensors located? Are they accessible from the top or the bottom of the car?
Will they brake loose easily or is their a chance of breaking them off in the block?
Thanks,
92WhiteVetteGuy
I just finished replacing the WP on my 92 LT1 and want to flush the entire coolant system.
Where are the block drain plugs/knock sensors located? Are they accessible from the top or the bottom of the car?
Will they brake loose easily or is their a chance of breaking them off in the block?
Thanks,
92WhiteVetteGuy
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St. Jude Donor '12
Knock sensors are on both sides in the block.
On my 92 they have shields over them so the sensors aren't visible until you remove the shields.
On my 92 they have shields over them so the sensors aren't visible until you remove the shields.
Team Owner
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Next time, remove your thermostat, open the radiator pitcock, then use a 6.0 hp (or higher) ShopVac with reverse thrust/blower capability and BLOW the air out using forced air.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Sacto Calif
Next time, remove your thermostat, open the radiator pitcock, then use a 6.0 hp (or higher) ShopVac with reverse thrust/blower capability and BLOW the air out using forced air.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
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Melting Slicks
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Hate to say this but the $5.00 flush kit they sell at parts stores dont work to bad. just tee the fitting in hook up water remove lower hose and let it run. not professional but removes a lot of crap
Drifting
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just make sure to burp the system when done.
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No worries. I often use the flush kits to break up mineral deposits and other contaminants, PLUS the ShopVac technique. Still don't have to remove the knock sensors, just the thermostat.
I always like to inspect/test thermostats when I do cooling system flush-n-fills anyhow. Annual maintenance item.
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Next time, remove your thermostat, open the radiator pitcock, then use a 6.0 hp (or higher) ShopVac with reverse thrust/blower capability and BLOW the air out using forced air.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
You don't have to remove the knock sensors this way, plus it evacuates the entire system, heater core and all.
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From: East Haven, Ct
Shop vac worked great. Sucked out all my coolant. Only 55,000 miles. Coolant was nice and clear orange. New water pump and wires. New plugs also. Real PIA job Wires go behind the air pump. Took the inner fender skirt off gave good visibility. Old wire were decent probably did not need new ones. I can see why the dealer wanted $$$$ to do the job.
Melting Slicks
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From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Shop vac worked great. Sucked out all my coolant. Only 55,000 miles. Coolant was nice and clear orange. New water pump and wires. New plugs also. Real PIA job Wires go behind the air pump. Took the inner fender skirt off gave good visibility. Old wire were decent probably did not need new ones. I can see why the dealer wanted $$$$ to do the job.
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From: LeClaire Iowa
I have found a description on the net but I never trust them. It said to take out the thermostat but bolt it back up with the gasket. Remove both radiator hoses. Blow from the top and everything comes out the bottom hose. Can an expert please confirm this is correct? Thanks again, Dan
