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Pure speculation, before you started the car you had at some point stepped on the brake pedal and the pads were in contact with the rotors, slowing the rotation. When you started the car the vac on the booster retracted the shaft to the mc and when you spun the tire there was less pressure.
When I adjusted mine, I put the left front on a jackstand so I could spin the wheel and see if there was any drag. It took a couple of tries to get it right. I did finally beak down and get some help with the pedal.
Good luck.
Pulling the master and pressing the brake pedal put the push rod in the engine bay. So, I was able to adjust it. I backed the screw out to where it looked like on the old booster.
Then I released the brake pedal. And put a dab of dielectric grease on my finger. Put that on the end of the screw and pulled my finger away. That left a thin trail of grease sticking out from the screw. I bolted the master down, then removed it. And by looking at the grease, the master was something like 1mm away from the screw. I figured that was good enough. The brakes feel better now. All I've got to do next is replace the master since it is leaking some into the booster. I hope the booster is fine as it's only been on there for a few weeks.
Same here. Technically it is VERY easy. But getting the two bolts off, which is above the steering column on the inside of the car is a pain. Take the seat out which is easy and have patience. It goes on a lot fast than it came off. I think it took me 3 hours with 2 hours of it on those 2 bolts, but you might have better luck and be done in 45 minutes...
I removed the drivers seat. Then I dropped the steering column by removing the tilt lever, inserting the key and turning to the 12:00 position, then remove the 2ea 15mm bolts that hold the bracket under the column. Then you will be able to get to those 2 screws that are "above" the column. Makes it a LOT easier. Also... I always use beeswax to hold nuts. Works better than grease for me. (works on screws as well).
Regards Pop