C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Seafoam?

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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
well good for you ! I am sure your car will run far better and last WAY longer than ours who use snake oils and sea foam ect..
Maybe or maybe not but I won't be spending money on "definite maybes".
Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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I do 1/2 a can broken into thirds in the vacuum line then do the other half in the tank. I spray seafoam deep creep *aerosol* into the throttle body and get the plenum really well. I havnt done it in my oil yet but im sure i have a lifter acting up so seafoam is goin in tomorrow with oil change the following day.

Ive used it on 2 vettes and 6 other vehicles with no ill issues.
Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
I have heard about carbon deposits increasing compression.

I've read about using water instead of Seafoam. The difference I see is it looks like the Seafoam does something while it sits in the engine. Then you start it up and get alot of smoke. I guess that is why they say to shut the engine down for a few hours to let the Seafoam do whatever it does. Then start the engine back up.
IF it is in the combustion chamber like say on op of the pistons, sure. However, unless you have been doing something silly and had a lot of oil consumption, where would that carbon be coming from? In a two stroker with a bad carburetor, perhaps. In modern FI injected engine, is there really that much?
Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by shbbykins
I do 1/2 a can broken into thirds in the vacuum line then do the other half in the tank. I spray seafoam deep creep *aerosol* into the throttle body and get the plenum really well. I havnt done it in my oil yet but im sure i have a lifter acting up so seafoam is goin in tomorrow with oil change the following day.

Ive used it on 2 vettes and 6 other vehicles with no ill issues.
How does your plenum get that gunked up in the first place? If it is a light coating, when you do real or proper work on it like checking the injectors every so often, the plenum comes off and you can clean it. I know my plenum was clean 50K ago because I disassembled it to remove the injectors for cleaning. While they were being cleaned and the car down, I washed them down thoroughly. No guesswork involved. I know that the injectors were tested then and the intake track cleaned. In my diesel MB, the EGR is plumbed into the intake after the intercooler and the crankcase is vented into the turbo so the air has oil fumes and you can see some caking up in the intake tracks. Again, those are cleaned every 100K because that is when I service the injectors. The L98 intake tracks are nowhere as dirty because there is no EGR and oily fumes in the intake manifold. In the base manifold, maybe.

Just because there is no ill issue doesn't mean there is some real benefit
Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by shbbykins
I do 1/2 a can broken into thirds in the vacuum line then do the other half in the tank. I spray seafoam deep creep *aerosol* into the throttle body and get the plenum really well. I havnt done it in my oil yet but im sure i have a lifter acting up so seafoam is goin in tomorrow with oil change the following day.

Ive used it on 2 vettes and 6 other vehicles with no ill issues.
I've read you're not supposed to use the Deep Creep anymore. In that they changed that to more of a WD40 type thing.

And that if you want to use the aerosol Seafoam. To use the new Seafoam spray that I posted some pics above.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
... changed that to more of a WD40 type thing.
Are you suggesting to run WD-40???
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Are you suggesting to run WD-40???
Haha. No. I'm saying people used to use Deep Creep in the intake. And I had read that Seafoam changed the formula of the Deep Creep to where it is now more like WD-40. So people were saying NOT to put Deep Creep in your intake now. And to instead go with the Seafoam Spray. As they are saying the Seafoam Spray is the old Deep Creep.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
it says " cleans engine, gets rid of carbon build up, cleans injectors" ect..I see people all over youtube putting it in their cars. and even the Navy uses it in the helicopters. I dont think there is a reason to be mean about it. If you dont like seafoam just say you dont like it and you dont think I should use it. Anyone else use it and like it?
We dont use it in our engines... we just replace them.

I've heard folks say it works.... but if you put it in the oil you have to change it within the day, dont let it sit...

anyone else's take on this?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BonePhoenIX
We dont use it in our engines... we just replace them.

I've heard folks say it works.... but if you put it in the oil you have to change it within the day, dont let it sit...

anyone else's take on this?
I don't think I'd put it in the oil. As regular oil changes should keep that part clean anyways. I could see misting it through the intake and/or putting it in the gas tank. But for the gas tank I'd consider Techron or Lucas.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Why don't you stop trying to start an argument..If you read my post again you will see it says(shot metered amounts of oil through an injector into the cylinders along with the fuel. (Along with the fuel) means along with the fuel..
If stating FACTS is "arguing"...then I'm sorry for your poor, closed minded perspective. And in fact, YOU are the one who is mis-reading. I read what you wrote clearly, which is why I corrected the misinformation that you posted. AGAIN, "Oil injection" on most 2 stroke outboards is really nothing more than an oil "mixer", that mixes the oil an gas in a ratio, before the carbs. "shot metered amounts of oil through an injector into the cylinders" <-is not how "Oil Injection" on most outboards, works. In otherwords, what an "oil injected outboard" sees for fuel and oil is no different than what any pre-mix outboard (or 2stroke) would ever see. You were making the point that there is more carbon build up b/c of the oil injection...and that just ain't true.

I'm not posting to argue; I'm posting to share the FACTS. Help the flow of accurate information. Isn't that the point of these forums? I can't stop you though; Put me on ignore. Stick you're head in the sand. Spend money on a product which you don't need. Enjoy how that feels for you.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
well good for you ! I am sure your car will run far better and last WAY longer than ours who use snake oils and sea foam ect..
If that was directed at me, I've never had a car that went LESS than 200k and I've sold them all, running perfectly. So yes...I do have data that shows that NOT using unknown elixors does work. That and I'm a Fleet maintenance manager of a 100+ vehicle fleet, and we see trmendous miles, abuse and data from that. We use regular gas, decent oil, and sensible maintenance intervals. We've had light duty trucks going over 260k and diesels going over 12k hrs -all in an extreme, off-road environment, no issues, no snake oils. Just proper maintenance and decent products.

So whether my vehicles run longer than your or not (I'd put money that they do), I'm still money ahead for NOT using that crap. Mostly though what I DO use, I use for a known reason. I don't arbitrarily pour crap in various orfices of my motor, while not knowing what it's make up is, or what the true outcome will be. I don't pour crap in my motor because the can tells me to. Hence, Slick 50, Lucas addatives, Seafoam, Marvel Mystery oil, RESTORE, etc....none of those things will ever go in a motor of mine, or that I'm responsible for. And they'll all "last" just fine, I've already proven.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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ive tried it once or twice just to see the smoke thing, perhaps it helped a bit who knows.

Dont see the sense in dumping something with any type of solvents in teh crankcase with no lubrication properties can be of any good.

Want to knock carbon loose and wind up where, clogging the oil pump pickup? I say leave the crankcase alone and change the oil regularly.


plenums will always get some type of oil/blowby in them doesnt really affect the way the car runs at all.

carbon on the piston tops=free compression.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
If that was directed at me, I've never had a car that went LESS than 200k and I've sold them all, running perfectly. So yes...I do have data that shows that NOT using unknown elixors does work. That and I'm a Fleet maintenance manager of a 100+ vehicle fleet, and we see trmendous miles, abuse and data from that. We use regular gas, decent oil, and sensible maintenance intervals. We've had light duty trucks going over 260k and diesels going over 12k hrs -all in an extreme, off-road environment, no issues, no snake oils. Just proper maintenance and decent products.

So whether my vehicles run longer than your or not (I'd put money that they do), I'm still money ahead for NOT using that crap. Mostly though what I DO use, I use for a known reason. I don't arbitrarily pour crap in various orfices of my motor, while not knowing what it's make up is, or what the true outcome will be. I don't pour crap in my motor because the can tells me to. Hence, Slick 50, Lucas addatives, Seafoam, Marvel Mystery oil, RESTORE, etc....none of those things will ever go in a motor of mine, or that I'm responsible for. And they'll all "last" just fine, I've already proven.
If you feel that way, I guess Jimmy Johnson cannot sell you either Enzyte or Extenze. they too have a bunch of people swear by them.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
carbon on the piston tops=free compression.
IF they were to layer themselves nicely, maybe. Problem is they don't and you get hot spots where detonation can occur. Unfortunately, while that is the theory, how many engines actually have those issues if they are modern fuel injected and properly maintained?
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by shbbykins
I do 1/2 a can broken into thirds in the vacuum line then do the other half in the tank. I spray seafoam deep creep *aerosol* into the throttle body and get the plenum really well. I havnt done it in my oil yet but im sure i have a lifter acting up so seafoam is goin in tomorrow with oil change the following day.

Ive used it on 2 vettes and 6 other vehicles with no ill issues.
If you have a lifter acting up, I would recommend just going ahead and replacing the lifter. Otherwise, if that lifter is not rolling, pumping up, or otherwise slamming on the camshaft, you will soon be doing alot more than taking off the manifold and rockers. Or at least take them out, check and clean, re-oil and reinstall if okay.

If you engine receives regular oil changes within the recommended intervals, with a quality oil, chances are that gunk is not the problem with the lifter. If it is, then, that gunk will have to go somewhere, another lifter, recirculated through the oil pump, who knows before it gets to the filter.

Solutions like Seafoam, GM Top End and Engine cleaners are designed to be maintenance tools to prevent problems, they will not fix them once they begin. The proverbial "mechanic in a can" does not exist.

There is nothing better than the good old fashioned oil, plug, filter changes at regular intervals to keep things smooth. That said, yes, things will go awry, like when my #5 exhaust lifter went bad. But it had nothing to do with gunk, it just simply stopped doing what it was supposed to do. Seafoam nor any liquid would fix that.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
If you have a lifter acting up, I would recommend just going ahead and replacing the lifter. Otherwise, if that lifter is not rolling, pumping up, or otherwise slamming on the camshaft, you will soon be doing alot more than taking off the manifold and rockers. Or at least take them out, check and clean, re-oil and reinstall if okay.

Solutions like Seafoam, GM Top End and Engine cleaners are designed to be maintenance tools to prevent problems, they will not fix them once they begin. The proverbial "mechanic in a can" does not exist.

There is nothing better than the good old fashioned oil, plug, filter changes at regular intervals to keep things smooth.
If I have 1 lifter acting up and I just replaced the lifters say 5000 miles ago, I would be willing to say that the lifter should be replaced. OTOH, if I had say 50K on it, I would recommending changing all the lifters. If one is bad, how far behind are the rest?

I think people tend to be "penny wise, pound foolish" when it comes to these sort of things. People don't want to do things right the first time and put out some money to get it done. People balk at spending $150 to have their injectors cleaned and balanced. Yet, they think nothing of spending money buying snake oils to supposedly keep problems from happening without knowing whether they really have the problem or not. I spent $200 one time to test my diesel injectors and found out that a good service interval is about 100K. At that mileage, I had 1 slightly gunked up injector. Every 100K, I send them out to be tested and cleaned. I know that the spring in it is at the appropriate tension and the nozzles are clean. You can spend $2000 on snake oils and not know what is going on.

That and testing intervals for injectors and say fuel pressure, check the plug wires every year or so, etc, etc.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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I didn´t read the whole story, but my opinion is this... if someone is interested:
If you just read what it says on the inside of the gas cap cover, premium gas recommended.
I know I know, I´m in Europe and we have higher octane fuel and all that, but if you just choose the highest you can get, and on top of that, drive the car regularly, you wouldn´t be needing additives.

I would like to know if there is a connection between using 87 octane gas and the use of seafoam or similar products wich produce lots of smoke.
Do people that only use 92-up octane gas and use seafoam produce just as much smoke?

I have owned my 91 for only 5 years now, and for 1.5-2 years ago I used the GM product (top engine cleaner?) once, just to see what it would do.
At first I thought it got better, but I also changed oil after that, and everyone knows that after an oil change it feels like the engine performs better.
So, that was also the last time I used anything like that.

How long have these products been on the market...?
30´s-40´s-50´s...???
If not that old, gives to think...

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by vette079
I know I know, I´m in Europe and we have higher octane fuel and all that, but if you just choose the highest you can get, and on top of that, drive the car regularly, you wouldn´t be needing additives.

I would like to know if there is a connection between using 87 octane gas and the use of seafoam or similar products wich produce lots of smoke. Do people that only use 92-up octane gas and use seafoam produce just as much smoke?

I have owned my 91 for only 5 years now, and for 1.5-2 years ago I used the GM product (top engine cleaner?) once, just to see what it would do. At first I thought it got better, but I also changed oil after that, and everyone knows that after an oil change it feels like the engine performs better.

How long have these products been on the market...?
30´s-40´s-50´s...???
If not that old, gives to think...
IF a car requires 87 octane, going to 99 octane won't help matters. It is simply to resist knock where the knock sensor pulls back timing. If your car is set for 93 octane, you are wasting money going to whatever is higher.

I doubt there is any real connection. People are using it as an engine cleaner because they are, IMO, too lazy and/or cheap to do it right. Doing it right usually demands a chunk of change now. Instead of doing it right, they choose to do it cheap by paying a little each time. Results probably won't be as good and you might still end up paying more but it is a smaller sticker shock. Just like when Hurricane Katrina hit and gas went up, idiots were dumping their SUVs and trucks that were PAID FOR to get a new car payment so they have a smaller sticker shock at the pump. Of course, the fact that they probably won't get it back by the time you consider all the payments and interest money, they don't consider. What they look at is that each day, they pay less at the pump.

Google "Placebo Effect".

Doesn't matter how long a product has been on the market. What should be evaluated is what it is trying to do TODAY. Just because it was good yesteryear doesn't mean it is worthwhile today.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
IF a car requires 87 octane, going to 99 octane won't help matters. It is simply to resist knock where the knock sensor pulls back timing. If your car is set for 93 octane, you are wasting money going to whatever is higher.

I doubt there is any real connection. People are using it as an engine cleaner because they are, IMO, too lazy and/or cheap to do it right. Doing it right usually demands a chunk of change now. Instead of doing it right, they choose to do it cheap by paying a little each time. Results probably won't be as good and you might still end up paying more but it is a smaller sticker shock. Just like when Hurricane Katrina hit and gas went up, idiots were dumping their SUVs and trucks that were PAID FOR to get a new car payment so they have a smaller sticker shock at the pump. Of course, the fact that they probably won't get it back by the time you consider all the payments and interest money, they don't consider. What they look at is that each day, they pay less at the pump.

Google "Placebo Effect".

Doesn't matter how long a product has been on the market. What should be evaluated is what it is trying to do TODAY. Just because it was good yesteryear doesn't mean it is worthwhile today.
Get the picture...
Just out of curiosity... again I´m in Europe... what was/were the corvettes set for in terms of octane, or better what was meant by premium gas in the 70-80-90´s?

When I lived in the Netherlands when I was younger and didn´t have a car (1985), I remember we had 91 octane called normal and super gas was higher octane but still contained lead.
From late 80- early 90´s they started with unleaded and I think 93-up octane.
Now it´s 95 octane called fuelsaver, and 97 octane called V-power.
Here in Sweden it´s 95, 98 and of course E85, but that won´t last long I think.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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93 is fine.



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