86 u-joint broke
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,094
Likes: 282
From: Phila., PA burbs
Might be discontinued, but you can still get them
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p423...ebuild_ki.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p423...ebuild_ki.html
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Might be discontinued, but you can still get them
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p423...ebuild_ki.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p423...ebuild_ki.html
Though, maybe it doesn't matter and the uncoated caps won't cause any problems.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Some say you are not supposed to grease the caps as that could cause the cap to spin in the shaft. I believe I read that Spicer says not to use any grease on the caps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 4
From: Heidelberg PA
Cruise-In V Veteran
I am not using grease - I use a thin coat of antisieze. I have not had a problem in 5 years and I drag race almost every weekend. Just a little item I use since they no longer have the coated cups and I do need strong u-joints.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Well, Spicer says not to use anything and to install it dry. Don't want a cap to spin. But as long as you don't have any problems is all that matters.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
finally got the tie rod end off and took out the half shaft. The strap that was holding the cap that came off seemed loose to me. I know I torqued them to the fsm spec which was 18 ft lbs. I did not use thread lock though, I used anti seize. Is this my rookie mistake. what do you guys suggest? Searching around, it looks like medium thread lock is what people have used. Should I take apart the other side and put the thread lock on. I am also worried about all my brake calipers, control arms, shocks. I have done everything to this car and did not use thread lock anywhere.where is this applicable and where do you differentiate between the red and blue which I guess is heavy and medium? now I am paranoid of everything coming loose on me. as far as the u-joint debate, it sounds like I should try and find the original spicer and not lube the caps but maybe a light coat of anti seize.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
finally got the tie rod end off and took out the half shaft. The strap that was holding the cap that came off seemed loose to me. I know I torqued them to the fsm spec which was 18 ft lbs. I did not use thread lock though, I used anti seize. Is this my rookie mistake. what do you guys suggest? Searching around, it looks like medium thread lock is what people have used. Should I take apart the other side and put the thread lock on. I am also worried about all my brake calipers, control arms, shocks. I have done everything to this car and did not use thread lock anywhere.where is this applicable and where do you differentiate between the red and blue which I guess is heavy and medium? now I am paranoid of everything coming loose on me. as far as the u-joint debate, it sounds like I should try and find the original spicer and not lube the caps but maybe a light coat of anti seize.
I'd pull the other strap bolts and redo them.
I put blue thread lock on my hub bolts, and caliper mounting bracket bolts.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 4
From: Heidelberg PA
Cruise-In V Veteran
Antiseize was the wrong thing to put on those strap bolts. If you reuse the old strap bolts. Then you want to wire wheel the threads to remove the old drylock that is on there. Then put new blue thread lock and torque to spec. I think I torqued mine to 20 ft/lbs to be a little safer.
I'd pull the other strap bolts and redo them.
I put blue thread lock on my hub bolts, and caliper mounting bracket bolts.
I'd pull the other strap bolts and redo them.
I put blue thread lock on my hub bolts, and caliper mounting bracket bolts.
Definitely use the blue thread lock on bolts.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
thanks for all the advice guys. Luckily my mistake is low cost and no injuries. I guess I have a lot of stuff to take apart again but better safe than sorry. Just to clarify how threadlocker works, the blue stuff is medium so if you need to take it off in the future, it will come off. The red really locks it on there but will you be able to get it off in the future?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
I just got the new half shaft, recycled actually. I got it from contemporary corvette. It still had the original spicers in it. They seemed fine but the caps are all rusty. I am taking them out and putting in the new ones I got. thanks for ll the advice
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
What ujoints did you get?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
precision federal mogul. It's the same one I had in there. I just think I didn't put it in right and it came loose. These were recommended by the guy at the local parts store. He builds old chevelles and vettes and he also said spicer was discontinued. I have not had a problem with the other side and I used these as well. I have to put some threadlock on those though
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,772
Likes: 64
From: Mystic CT
Snap ring 101 almost all are stamped and there is a rounded edge and a sharp one. If so the sharp edge goes in the direction you want to resist from moving. In this case from the cups going out not in so sharp edges out for a u-joint. I have never seen yours and suspect every company might be different but something to keep on mind. Just a thought and easily overlooked.
Dave
Dave
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
Snap ring 101 almost all are stamped and there is a rounded edge and a sharp one. If so the sharp edge goes in the direction you want to resist from moving. In this case from the cups going out not in so sharp edges out for a u-joint. I have never seen yours and suspect every company might be different but something to keep on mind. Just a thought and easily overlooked.
Dave
Dave
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
last question, I hope. The ujoint has a flat side and a side with a little bubble sticking up. what is the orientation of this bubble? should it face the spindle yoke or the axle shaft? I wasn't smart enough to notice this prior to pressing out the old ujoints. The bubble does not seem like it will bind on anything either way it's installed. It may just be there from the casting or mold. I just want to do it all correctly this time. Does the ujoint have an inner and and outer side?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 4
From: Heidelberg PA
Cruise-In V Veteran
last question, I hope. The ujoint has a flat side and a side with a little bubble sticking up. what is the orientation of this bubble? should it face the spindle yoke or the axle shaft? I wasn't smart enough to notice this prior to pressing out the old ujoints. The bubble does not seem like it will bind on anything either way it's installed. It may just be there from the casting or mold. I just want to do it all correctly this time. Does the ujoint have an inner and and outer side?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
Elrick take a look at my post. the strap bolts being loose are the frist indication to me that the cap was riding over the shoulder on the yoke and not inside it. look hard at the shoulder on the yoke and see if it is shiny or deformed in anyway also look at the old caps and see if there is evidence that it was riding just on the shoulder.