I replaced my rear hub assembly and u-joint last winter. Today it let go at 75 mph, a loud clunk and a scary moment on the highway. I limped it off the road and had a flat bed take it to my house. The right rear ujoint had come apart. Both straps were fine, it came apart at the end cap. The clip was gone and so was the cap. There were aluminum shavings everywhere. It bit into the knuckle a bit and also wore away the groove where the clip sits in. I am not sure why this happened. I now have to get a new half shaft and ujoint. It was a brand new moog ujoint. The straps were still on tight and I have driven it all summer with no problems. Has this ever happened to anyone else? All I can think is that it was not seated properly. It was pretty scary and obviously I don't want it to happen again. I followed all advice from the forum when I made the original repair so I don't know what I may have done wrong. Also, I am ordering a reconditioned half shaft, are they side specific or interchangeable. They only other thing I can think of is that maybe I put it in the opposite way. Does it matter what end goes to the wheel? I guess I will go with the moog again as well, seems to be the ujoint people here suggest. any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys

 

I'm not trying to add insult to injury, but it sounds more like an improper install. New joints don't just break. The halfshafts and the u-joints go in as a balanced assembly - which is why I usually bitch about the bozos here recommending the use of a hammer during installation.

If you installed 1 of the joints into the yoke off center, that could cause the snap rings to pop out or put extra stress on one cap, or the cap wouldn't be fully seated on the end of joint. If it wore away the groove where the end clip seats, it could be the cap was moving or off center. Did you use grease the end caps during install?

 

If one needle gets out of place and the cap is forced in, it will cause the joint to fail. I recommend spyder u-joints and good press to assemble them.

 

Is there anyway to check that after you have the ujoints pressed in?

I did the ujoints in one of my halfshafts a few months back.

I did do the trick I've seen where after you press the ujoint in. You gently tap the joint in the opposite direction to unload it. I noticed after pressing the joints in, that they were hard to rotate in the halfshaft. After tapping them in the opposition direction that it was pressed in, that loosened them up to where the joint would rotate freely back and forth in the half shaft.

 

no insult taken. I am a total rookie wrench so I just followed any advice I found here. I pressed them in with a ujoint press I borrowed from advance auto. No hammer used, I just pressed it in, put the clip back and put it back in. It seemed like it was seated properly, the clip sat in the groove and the ujoint sat down on the tabs that extend out. I figured I screwed it up somehow, I just don't want to screw it up again and I am worried about the job I did on the other side. I did not grease the end caps. There was already grease inside the caps on the needle bearings. do you use grease outside the cap? Thanks for the advice

 

I am trying ti replace it again, got the bolt off the spring, strut rod out but I can't get the outer tie rod off. I think it bent when the ujoint broke. I used a pickle fork, no luck. destroyed the boot, don't care at this point. Hammered on it and just can't get it to come up out of the knuckle. Not sure how to deal with this now. I could take off the inner tie rod assembly, control arms and knuckle and replace it all but that would suck. It was a brand new moog outer tie rod end put in over last winter so it's not rusted in it's bent a little so it won't come up and out. any thoughts. it's always something, nothing ever goes easy for me. thanks guys

 

That sounds right. I was thinking you may have had 1 end cap sticking too far out. No, grease isn't used when you push the end cap into the yoke.

You could try the ball joint press to remove the tie rod. I don't think Advance auto has it, but I know I've rented them from Autozone before.

 

I always apply a thin film of anti-galvanic compund to everything when working with the suspension. It prevents that nasty white corrosion and makes it easier to work on next time. Be sure that the ujoint that you use have the coated caps on them for the aluminum halfshafts. I used neapco "Brute Force" joints on mine

 

Go back to Auto Zone, and rent a tie rod or 2 jaw puller. pounding on things won't get the job done.
What you need to do is be patient, and consider 3 ways to do the job, and pick what works for you. (hint.......PULLER)
Then reassemble carefully, and take a pic with your phone.
go back to the pic an hour later, and try to see if anything looks out of place. You would be surprised what you see.

 

thanks, I will be trying the 2 jaw puller this afternoon.

 

Look. When your installing U-joints its not rocket science or magic.

WHen pressing in the cups, once the cup is below flush with the yoke, install the cir-clip, then continue to press in until the cir-clip snaps in its groove.

No need to tap or wack the cup in the opposite direction.

Yes, the joint should pivot freely once both cups are in place.
Its a simple check.

 

Yeah, 4:30. Judge Wapner, Peoples Court, yeah.

 

What brand of u-joint was it?

Cheap part??

 

when I put it in, the clip was seated and the ujoint was able to pivot freely and it sat on the tab that sticks out. I did the other side same way with out a problem. I guess **** happens but will triple check this next one. also went through the other side to make sure it was still good. On a side note, I just rebuilt my trans and added a shift kit. I wonder if this added stress to it. If it was off a little bit this may have sent it on it's way.

 

it was a moog part. I have never had any problems with them. I am sure I did not put it in perfectly. It's such an easy job I must have overlooked something and that's all it took. Any suggestions as to another brand of ujoint?

 

Neapco Brute Force These will not break.

shift kit won't make enough difference to break a quality u-joint.

Be sure you get joints with coated caps.

 

I had thought you just put in the clip. Press joint to clip. Then install the other clip?

I figured that would center it since it doesn't appear there is alot of extra room.

 

there are tabs on each side of the yoke where the straps bolt to. the caps have to sit inside these and the straps flush to the yoke. I see people mess this up way to offen. so check that out also.

 

How long did your original u-joints last? I'm guessing they lasted for a long time. If thats the case, why not replace with OEM Spicer u-joints?
I replaced my originals (not broken) with new Spicers when my car was 12 years old. The replacements have been on the car for 7 years with no problems and plenty of drag strip time. Seems like a no brainer to me.

 

Because they are discontinued.