C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Fuel pump won't prime after running

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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Default Fuel pump won't prime after running **FIXED**

OK, so yesterday after the car sat for 4 days it fired right up. Fuel pump primed like it's supposed to and hte car lit right off. Go to lunch, 4 hours later and the pump doesn't prime and it cranks for a long time before starting. Same when it came time to go home.

So, likely fgoing to be the relay... where is it?

Last edited by Bobzilla; Oct 8, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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Always start off your question posts by identifying the year of your car/engine. Lots of differences among the years.

Jake
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Always start off your question posts by identifying the year of your car/engine. Lots of differences among the years.

Jake
D'OH.... this week has me fried. I know better than that too!

88 4+3 manual trans Z51 coupe. I understand it's on the firewall? Not sure which one. Obviously it'll be the one NOT clicking, just trying to make it a little easier.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Yes, the FP relay is on the firewall on the driver's side, next to the wiper motor. Make sure it's not a bad pump as well.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 03:34 PM
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iF the car sits for a few days, the pump primes and it fires right up. If it's been driven recently, it won't. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet, but the regulator is not bleeding out through the vacuum line.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobzilla
iF the car sits for a few days, the pump primes and it fires right up. If it's been driven recently, it won't. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet, but the regulator is not bleeding out through the vacuum line.
WOW! I just finished looking up the location of the relay and now I see someone beat me to it. Oh, well.

Yours is an intermittent problem, probably heat related. Even if you ran 12V to it and the relay works that wouldn't tell you, definitively, if yours in bad or not. I believe HEAT is an ingredient here.

During times when the engine takes a lot of cranking to start, once it does start, disconnect the relay and if the engine continues to run, then replace the relay.

Also, when you first turn the key to ON but DON'T CRANK the engine, you should be able to hear the pump energize - hum/buzz.

There are testing procedures in the FSM but, considering how inexpensive the relay is, it might be, over-all, easier just to replace it.

Jake
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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WEll, replaced the 22 year old relay, but still doesn't prime. I can hear 3 clicks behind the driver when you turn the key on, but no buzz. Bad pump?
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobzilla
WEll, replaced the 22 year old relay, but still doesn't prime. I can hear 3 clicks behind the driver when you turn the key on, but no buzz. Bad pump?
The pump is probably 22 years old also, I agree with Jake on it being a heat problem, once the pump gets cool it will work, but after it heats up it won't work again till it cools off. Makes sense to me but the FSM gives procedures to check for sure. Of course it probably wouldn't hurt to just replace the pump if it is the original and you have the money.Just call it (preventive maintainence)...WW

Last edited by WW7; Sep 26, 2010 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
disconnect the relay and if the engine continues to run, then replace the relay.
Wouldn't make any difference ; pump is being run off the oil pressure switch wired in parallel with the pump relay so engine will continue to run regardless
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rodj
Wouldn't make any difference ; pump is being run off the oil pressure switch wired in parallel with the pump relay so engine will continue to run regardless
I took that from GM'S FSM, so I guess they blew it too.

Jake
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
The pump is probably 22 years old also, I agree with Jake on it being a heat problem, once the pump gets cool it will work, but after it heats up it won't work again till it cools off. Makes sense to me but the FSM gives procedures to check for sure. Of course it probably wouldn't hurt to just replace the pump if it is the original and you have the money.Just call it (preventive maintainence)...WW
that's about the same conclusion I had come to as well.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobzilla
that's about the same conclusion I had come to as well.
Bob, I believe Racetoronics is having a sale on some of there pumps and pump kits right now..Check them out...WW

Last edited by WW7; Sep 27, 2010 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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So... got a new pump and strainer. Simple install. Pump primes every time. Now that the pump is actually holding pressure, the pressure regulator is now leaking. lol.... I shoulda known!
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobzilla
So... got a new pump and strainer. Simple install. Pump primes every time. Now that the pump is actually holding pressure, the pressure regulator is now leaking. lol.... I shoulda known!
The FPR if leaking into the vacuum hose via the intake, it will make the engine crank allot before it starts due to a rich condition. I had that happen to me and measured about 1 oz of fuel went into the intake as the fuel pressure bled down in about 15 minutes. After replacement of FPR it was back to starting instantly.

You may have also had a bad check valve in the pump.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 03:12 PM
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I know the pump itself was done... fuel pressure was weak and it would only prime when cold. Plus it bled down pressure quickly after shutoff. I had checked the FPR hose intially and it wasn't leaking from there at that time.... but now that the check valve is working and the pump holds pressure, now it does.

I can't complain. It's 22 years old with 143k miles on it. Stuff breaks. At least the parts are cheap. Much better than my 16 year old Japanese car I had previously....
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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One $30 FPR later and she instantly fires up. Runs amazing. I'd guess the combination of the 22 year old original pump, plus the original strainer that was just about varnished over, plus the leaking fpr had sapped some power and performance out of it. Car runs smoother, stronger and happier.

One system fixed and up to snuff.... now on to the next one!
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobzilla
One $30 FPR later and she instantly fires up. Runs amazing. I'd guess the combination of the 22 year old original pump, plus the original strainer that was just about varnished over, plus the leaking fpr had sapped some power and performance out of it. Car runs smoother, stronger and happier.

One system fixed and up to snuff.... now on to the next one!
Where did you get the FPR from? That is the cheapest I've seen.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Where did you get the FPR from? That is the cheapest I've seen.
Check out his sig!


(Hint: He's a parts slinger.)
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