406-409 ci thread
425-RWHP & 458-RWTQ on Dynojet
HSR Plenum by me

AFR 210 heads (last Gen) 1206 gasket
11:1 CR
238/242 Hyd-Roller custom billet cam spec'd by me
by Bullet CamsComp Cams Roller Rockers & Retro Lifters
Eagle Forged 4340 Crank & Eagle Forged H-beam rods
Wisceo Forged Pistons
Hooker 2149
58 MM TB with 165 ECM and stock MAF sensor
MSD 6AL w/8366 Distributor
Kirban AFPR
Walbro 255
FIC Bosch 42# injectors
TKO 600
3:45 (ZF) rear gear
Kevko Oil Pan
Melling 10555 Oil Pump
Flow Kooler water pump
Dewitts radiator
That's about it
425-RWHP & 458-RWTQ on Dynojet
HSR Plenum by me

AFR 210 heads (last Gen) 1206 gasket
11:1 CR
238/242 Hyd-Roller custom billet cam spec'd by me
by Bullet CamsComp Cams Roller Rockers & Retro Lifters
Eagle Forged 4340 Crank & Eagle Forged H-beam rods
Wisceo Forged Pistons
Hooker 2149
58 MM TB with 165 ECM and stock MAF sensor
MSD 6AL w/8366 Distributor
Kirban AFPR
Walbro 255
FIC Bosch 42# injectors
TKO 600
3:45 (ZF) rear gear
Kevko Oil Pan
Melling 10555 Oil Pump
Flow Kooler water pump
Dewitts radiator
That's about it
Good Job! That's some good torque. Curious to see how I compare if I ever get this thing started.
Dyno numbers seem to vary from dyno to dyno but I am happy with how it turned out. I did not want a cranky street machine, or max HP numbers,,,,,I have gone as far as I will go with this car...
I've got my sights set now on buying and rebuilding a 1965, 66 or 67 Convertible GTO next
Probably a dumb question but I've heard lots of "not necessary waste of money on street engine" vs "makes for a smoother revving engine".
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Probably a dumb question but I've heard lots of "not necessary waste of money on street engine" vs "makes for a smoother revving engine".
I'D REALLY APPRECIATE IT.
I want to post my VEHEMENT DISAGREEMENT with that foolishness in an effort to try to keep it from spreading like a Cancer.
Jake
Probably a dumb question but I've heard lots of "not necessary waste of money on street engine" vs "makes for a smoother revving engine".
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...mode=0&start=0
In regards to balancing, some choose to re-balance a factory motors rotating assembly during an overhaul. Because the factory has a wide range of tolerance, a good crank balance can make a world of difference for a few bucks.
In the case of aftermarket stuff, they all require balancing, as the crank manufacturer has no control, or idea of what part will be hung on their crankshaft. Therefore, balance is required ever time a rotator is assembled. The exception would be if someone cobbles all the parts together, balances it, then sells it as a complete, balanced rotating assembly. However, I have found that most of these could stand to have the balance touched up because of so-so workmanship.
My opininion is all rotating assemblys need to have the balance checked, then tweaked. Cheap insurance that adds durability to the build.
As said above balancing adds durability NOTHING is more irritating than having one out of balance.
Years ago I ordered a P.A.W. shortblock and,even with thier balance job the motor shook like there was no tomorrow. SHould have known it was a cheapie build. I got what I paid for I guess. AFter getting 3 bad cranks I should have shoved their motor over the counter and gotten my coin back.
Bearings were about wiped after 1500 miles. THey are closing down this month serves them right.
425-RWHP & 458-RWTQ on Dynojet
HSR Plenum by me

AFR 210 heads (last Gen) 1206 gasket
11:1 CR
238/242 Hyd-Roller custom billet cam spec'd by me
by Bullet CamsComp Cams Roller Rockers & Retro Lifters
Eagle Forged 4340 Crank & Eagle Forged H-beam rods
Wisceo Forged Pistons
Hooker 2149
58 MM TB with 165 ECM and stock MAF sensor
MSD 6AL w/8366 Distributor
Kirban AFPR
Walbro 255
FIC Bosch 42# injectors
TKO 600
3:45 (ZF) rear gear
Kevko Oil Pan
Melling 10555 Oil Pump
Flow Kooler water pump
Dewitts radiator
That's about it
As far as balancing, accurate balancing is always a must...and I have had mine balanced as a stock external 400 front and rear,,,,,, neutral front and external rear, and finally and best,,,, all neutral.
Once lesson I learned, is that in the long run, it costs less to buy a balanced rotating assembly complete, (rods, crank and pistons) rather than trying to find deals on separate components and then having them balanced.
As said above balancing adds durability NOTHING is more irritating than having one out of balance.
Years ago I ordered a P.A.W. shortblock and,even with thier balance job the motor shook like there was no tomorrow. SHould have known it was a cheapie build. I got what I paid for I guess. AFter getting 3 bad cranks I should have shoved their motor over the counter and gotten my coin back.
Bearings were about wiped after 1500 miles. THey are closing down this month serves them right.
I never asked price just found a way to pay for it. Even with a pretty roudy cam it doesnt so much as twitch...at all.
Probably, but checking it cost less than balancing,,, I would have to look up my cost for balancing,, but I want to say it was $200 , just going from memory. Sine I have not bought a balanced rotating assembly, I would say that it probably depends on who you buy it from with regard to accuracy etc.

But I think you guys, especially Pete, have a large sample size to draw off of when you make those conclusions than I do. Always good to get a unanimous decision. Have fun picking up the car Larry, you'll have to let us know how the driveability is with the improved tune!




















