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Yep,I guess it was due. I searched for "heater core" and sure enough, I found one done by Fastguy. Looks pretty simple. I bypassed it for now, and hope to get to it next week.
If anyone has any tips on this proceedure, PLEASE chime in. Thanks, Jim
P.S. successfully completed !!!
Last edited by Jimbo 89; Oct 16, 2010 at 01:46 PM.
Not really hard, but a total PITA. Do your self a favor and go to Sears. They have a flexable 1/4" extension about 8" long. Also look for their assortment of 1/4" ends. Other stores must have them but I am hooked on Sears. 1/4" works well in there. I also pulled the dash pad off to open things up. Use care to pull the rod off of the heater blend door, there is a plastic retainer to attach the rod. Remember things are 21 yrs. old in there. I understand you can get a replacement but I don't know where. I also pulled the bread box off which really helped also. I put a flat panel back on. Take your time and walk away often.
Yep,I guess it was due. I searched for "heater core" and sure enough, I found one done by Fastguy. Looks pretty simple. I bypassed it for now, and hope to get to it next week.
If anyone has any tips on this proceedure, PLEASE chime in. Thanks, Jim
and what do you recommend??? Don't leave me hangin like that!!!
I think what he means is to buy a GM core if you can.. I know of a few who have used ones made by Delphi and had good results, Delphi use to be a GM supplier..I think its a good idea to test it before you put it in..Get a plug to block off one of the tubes or use your finger, hook up a hose to the other tube with a clamp, submerge the core in a bucket of water, and blow, this will let you know if it has any holes in the solder joints. Some guys cut a bike inner tube in half, clamp each end on the 2 tubes and use a pump or compressor to blow it up to 16 lbs pressure to check for leaks..Use either method, but it is a good idea to check it for leaks before you spend 6 hours putting it in...WW
It's wise to refill the cooling system and then pressurize it at the radiator to check new heater core for leaks before buttoning the dash back up. This is incase you got a bad core or simply managed to tweak one of the welded heater joints trying to get the stupid inlet/outlet tubes to align/fit though the firewall holes during install. It's better to know this now than after you're put everything back together.
Just wanted to report back to say heater core was changed successfully.
A BIG thanks to Fastguy and Agent 86 for tips and pics.
My tips: need 13mm, 10mm, and 7mm sockets/universal joints and flexable type tools a MUST. As stated, screws on top of heater box can be a pain. When you get heater box off, there are 2 retainers. The botton one is plain to see, but the one on top was hard to find. I removed old core with top retainer still in place, then removed it and replaced after install of new. Also had to remove drivers side lower to replace long vent tube. No prob, just thought I'd mention it.
Feeling after job completed....Priceless!!!! Probably saved about $500 bucks.