Ok Iv been researching 383's and all the ways to do it. I own an 85 vette so iv got the iron heads and FT cam so I wouldn't want to keep that and about 76k miles but it had been sitting in a field for 7 years before I rescued it. I'm wanting to go sts turbo but first I need to address the engine. My question is are all sbc blocks the same? Meaning if I got a 383 stroker crate engine from summit, which is a long block without intake, could I just pull my motor out take everything off and bolt everything back up to the crate motor and drop it back in. I would get bigger injectors, pump and tuning. I 'm just talking about bolt up wise. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP3834CT1/

 

Pretty expensive under taking. If you don't care about never getting your money out of it and just want something fun to drive then do it. If the block is in good shape there are less expensive ways to hop up a TPI engine for a lot less money. New heads, injectors, intake manifold, MSD. You may get above 300 hp at the flywheel. The TPI is already has very good low end torque. Get it to breath better it may read line near 6000 rpm without flattening at a lot lower cost.

 

Don't listed to Mundo he knows nothing. That is not a bad deal for over 400 HP Crate engine. Just a good set of heads is $1200.00 What heads are supplied with it? This is all I could find. Maybe some of the more knowledgeable guys will step in soon.


PART NUMBER: BP3834CT1 BLOCK:

• 4 Bolt main, 1 piece rear main seal
• Passenger side dipstick
• Align honed main bearing bore
• Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness
• Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness

ROTATING ASSEMBLY:

• New cast steel crankshaft
• Hypereutectic pistons
• Chevy heavy beam rods with 150,000 PSI bolts
• Hastings moly rings
• Melling high volume oil pump
• Hydraulic flat tappet cam
• Heavy duty double roller timing set

CYLINDER HEADS:

• Performance Aluminum
• Hardened retainers and springs
• 2.02 swirl polished intake valves
• 1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves

A TON OF EXTRAS:

• 10 to 1 Compression
• New valve covers, oil pan and timing cover
• Brass freeze plugs
• Dyno tested - shipped with results

CRITICAL SPECS:

CAM: .480 Int / .486 Exh & 229 Int / 230 Exh duration @ .050 HORSEPOWER: 420 TORQUE: 450 COMP RATIO: 10 to 1 (requires 91 octane fuel) IGNITION TIMING: 34 degrees total (at 4000 RPM)
WARRANTY:
30 month / 50,000 mile
Notes: THIS ENGINE WILL NOT WORK FOR APPLICATIONS REQUIRING EGR

 

You still have a flat tappet cam with that setup

 

I wonder if they offer a Roller version?

 

How well a 383 will work with an 85 TPI? I am doing it but with big runners and heavily ported plenum and manifold.

 

I was going to suggest an HSR to top it off

 

If the op plans to turbo the thing as he stated, forged pistons are the way to go. This motor will work if normally aspirated, but if he is going through the trouble and expense of a new motor, he might as well have one built for his future needs.

 

The cam looks like a mismatch with a long tube runner setup.

 

For your questions:

No, all small block Chevy engines are not the same. Some of the differences are subtle, allowing parts interchangeability and other differences are more substantial NOT allowing interchangeability. Even an engine built using a 400 block will drop right in.

Trying to post the long listing of the differences, I believe, are beyond the scope of your question. So let's just say that what you're considering doing falls in the catagory of "Yes, the parts will swap over", for the most part that is.

Of course, all the parts removed from the "old" engine will have to be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and replaced (as necessary). Engines sitting out in a field for 7 years makes me believe the heads/valve train will need a complete refurbishing , if not completely replaced.

Sensors, senders, etc., will all need replacing to give you reliable performance. Valve covers, oil pan, timing chain cover, exhaust manifolds, brackets, braces, some bolts, and a few other things are reusable. The long block probably comes with some of those though.

Other than those (and the parts I didn't think of or post) the new engine will be a drop in.

Bottom line; by the time you get right down to it, there will probably be some reusable parts from the field sitter, but not all that many.

Jake

 

That would be the best improvement recommendation!!!! but the C4 hood clearance requires a hood scoop.... or milling the HSR around 1"
I would also match a nice 383 roller cam....

 

JAKE I agree with exactly what you said I plain on totally going threw all the sensors and what better time then when my motor is out. Also Ill get the one with a roller cam and probably a more mild cam more suitable for a heavily ported tpi. I dont plan on boosting like crazy, probably only 5-6psi but more on occasion at the track. The main reason I want to do the 383 is because I know Im gonna need new internals and my heads will need gone threw anyway so I might as well go with the 383 for a lil more instead of going back to stock, I dont plan on going extreme with it, I just want a real modest build thats steetable and fairly reliable. thanks for all the quick replies and info guys!

 

You have a C3 and a C4 and want to do the same motor? Im confused there was a thread in C3 tech about this

 

...here are a few other things to consider..a new starter to accomodate the externally balanced 168 tooth flex plate, a new stoker oil pan to fit the low clearance on the front crossmember. Ensure you have a 6.75" diameter harmonic dampner and maybe an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor too.

 

Note that this engine requires a 400 balancer on the front, which most are a larger diameter which may be a problem with cross member clearance.

 

no just an 1985 c4 I posted that one first on the c3 T/P on accident. afterwords I was searching the c4 T/P and wondering y I couldn't find it, lol. my bad for the confusion.

 

Will keep these in mind.

 

If you listen to Ch@os you'll have just that - chaos! You'll throw a ton of money into a car that won't increase it's value. I gave you advise to hop up the car and not lose the family fortune in it.

 

BTW I'm not worried about getting my money back out of it. My dad gave it to me when it was at its worst and iv fixed it up from basically nothing and I plan on giving it to my son, so it does have a lot of sentimental value to me.

 

I was just about to post that I hope you have a mature son. A 383 turbo would be a handful, with overwhelming temptation if not. Then, I checked your profile and see you're 23.

Are you sure it's appropriate to build a turbo 383 for a 4-yr-old?




BTW: Check the "Engine Store" for some of the most economical shortblocks you can find.