So the "water" running through our cooling systems will get hotter the faster the water runs through them, because its moving like the stirred water in the pot.

 

So we should all supercharge our water pumps to achieve maximum flow rate?

I'm just trying to understand how running coolant from heat source to radiator and back to heat source faster is going to make the coolant cooler. But wait, if it starts moving too fast the coolant could freeze because of the insane amount of heat transfer going on. Sounds like to me, but I'm staying subscribed for results!

 

Oh boy, here we go...keep in mind stock LT1 thermostat is 180. My car runs down the road at about 195. Evidently, the cooling system cannot cool the car to 180, the minimum op. temp.

GM designed the car to have a 180 t-stat. The LT1/LT4 does NOT run any hotter than any other car out there today. Period. They all run hot compared to an old muscle car or whatever. Putting in a 160 t-stat will NOT give you stupid amounts of power or even contribute to any SIGNIFICANT increase in performance. Only much more major modifications can give a substantial increase in performance.

My 93 LT1 ZF6 will run a 13.52@108.83MPH in the 1/4 mile with a crappy 2.28 sixty foot time. I get that into the 2.0-1.9 range you are looking at a high 12sec. LT1 C4 Corvette. Only mods are open air lid, K&N filter, x-pipe in place of resonator, muffler eliminators. I usually launch with water temps right around 180.

SO WHY AGAIN DO YOU WANT A 160 T-STAT??????

 

The longer the coolant sits in the radiator, the longer coolant is getting heated up in the block.

 

I can't believe the amount of WRONG in this thread...

For once I am just going to sit back and watch.

 

 

No you are not a troll. You came back to this thread and responded. Trolls dont come back. I enjoy reading both sides of the issue here. Thanks for starting this thread.

jfb is one of my heroes here. He consistantly gives good info for us here. He has helped me many, many times in the past. Thanks jfb.

Mike

 

Interesting how my electric water pump makes my car run cooler at idle by keeping the flow rate higher

BTW heat transfer IS time dependent!!!!!

 

Maybe the word maximum wasn't a good choice for the flow rate. Maybe we're all looking for the "optimum" flow rate at which the water has time to be cooled by the radiator before returning to the block then back again?

Not trying to sound like an **** just trying to understand this.

 

Sure?

 

Wheee!

This is fun!

Josh, your talking out your tailpipe again.

Pull your t-stat and prove me wrong, or find a thread on anti-freeze specs.


I'll even buy you a couple of t-stat gaskets.





.

 

I'm curious as to what your digital temp readings were as you were driving?

 

The following is from www.arrowheadradiator.com . Go to their site and click on technical articles and then find and read, "14 rules for improving engine cooling....".

What would happen if we increase the coolant flow? Will it go through the radiator so fast that there won’t be time for cooling to take place? Not at all, from the expression, we can see that if the heat load is constant, increasing the coolant flow rate will reduce the coolant temperature drop through the radiator, resulting in a higher bottom tank temperature. If the bottom tank temperature is increased, the top tank temperature must go down to maintain approximately the same average core temperature. This is what we were hoping to achieve. With the top tank temperature now less that 190 degrees F at the reduced power point, we can expect that the system will be better able to run at 240 hp without overheating, In fact, because the increased coolant flow rate results in a higher coolant flow velocity and better “scrubbing action” in the tubes, the average coolant temperature decreases slightly while transferring the same heat load to the cooling air, further lowering the top tank temperature, resulting in better cooling performance.

From this we see that increasing the coolant flow rate will result in better heat transfer performance. There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided.

 

I didn't say anything about pulling the stat or that anyone was wrong.

I simply stated the longer coolant sits in the radiator, the longer the coolant sits in the block. Which is fact. How is posting a fact talking out my tailpipe?

I did have a problem with my 89 running real cool like around 150*. I replaced the stat and my running temps went higher up in the normal range as the old stat was stuck open. I don't really care to do any experiments with the stat pulled as I always run a stat.

 

I don't either, but I also don't see what this has to do with anything relevant to this thread. I fully understood what the little astrisk meant, didn't you? Perhaps we will all agree to spell out "degree" so there is no confusion and no one need feel inferior.

 

I'm not debating that increasing flow will or will not cause the engine to run cooler.

I'm saying that pulling the t-stat is not the answer to C4 (and others) cooling problems. Ya gotta have a t-stat to build heat for closed loop. And you can't run out on the freeway at 65 mph (heat soaked) and pull off to street speeds without overheating. Unless it 35* outside......

The t-stat maintains system temp and restricts flow to that designed for our engines and radiators.

Simply pulling the t-stat is not a fix.

 

 

How far above the thermostat should you set your fan temps.
FOr example, 160 thermostat and have fans come on at 190? 180?
And what if you have a larger radiator, Griffin/BeCool and of course, what if your car has allot more power or power adder that increases engine temps.
Its not just the thermostat, it is the hole system working together to regulate proper temperature.

 

Have a 160 stat fan comes on at 185 off at 170 but its not a F.I. motor & will run quite a bit.
Some say a stat may not be completely open til 10 deg above advertised dont know if its true or not bet many are different.

Better to probably have on at 195/off 180 so the fan doesnt run as much.

Maybe DeWitts can pop in hes the expert here sure he could give some great info.

 

I have heard the Hypertech 160 stat is actually a 170 thermostat.