What???!! how can it come up to temp faster but cool better? you are contradicting yourself.

I'm outa here

 

My PC has a LOT of f***in keys ... but none that have Fn on 'em

 

I highlighted the right part. I'm right, the heat transfer equation is right, coolant temperature decreases with increased flow. Read Keystring's post, read 86Pacer's post where he quotes Arron Johnson's experience with hundreds of cars with the thermostat removed.

 

 

Man, I have never seen any thermostat thread ever NOT go down in a hurry. You guys argue all you want, I see no point in wasting time, over a dumb thermostat. Will changing it cause you to suddenly run stupid fast times, NO, will it dramatically change anything, probably not, at least in a LT1, 160 versus 180 STOCK!!! Will it still eventually run just as hot as a 180, yes, Thermostats determine minimum operation temperature NOT maximum, that is determined by fan turn on temp, radiators capacity to transfer heat, and airflow,etc...

My point is my basically stock LT1 ZF6 with a 180 STOCK T-Stat, runs 13.52@108.83MPH with my crappy driving with my crappy 2.28 60 foot times. What does yours with your 160 t-stat run???

I'm outta here...
Going to go enjoy my Corvette and not give a crap what thermostat is in there as long as it works.

 

!Amen! Brother...

NEXT...

 

Pete, you have outdid yourself. Another fine pic.

 

Been doing a cam change over the weekend and I can't believe how much trash was between the condenser and radiator ... this Corvette does a better job than the shop-vac ... I had the rad out about a year ago and it was full of crap then too ! ........ Running Hot ? Take a look at yours !

 

Stock Car Racing recently spoke with engine builders Ben Barnes, Darrell Poe, and Jeff Dorton to get their advice on the elements of good valve work.

• Pay proper attention to valve guides before starting a valve job. “The first thing you do when you start to do a valve job is look at the valve guide wear,” says Barnes, of Barnes and Reece Racing Engines. “You have to have the proper amount of clearance before you can even do a valve job. Once the valve guide has been serviced and everything is good there, you have to look at the concentricity of the valve seat and make sure that it’s as close as possible with the machinery we use.”

Watch for signs that indicate the valve guides may need attention before beginning the valve job.

“There are no shortcuts to achieve necessary results on a valve job for racing engines,” says Dorton. “Straight valve guides with proper clearance are a must to start with. The big thing is not running guides that are worn out, bell-mouthed, tapered or just loose in clearance. If you have a Serdi machine, but your guide is not right, you’re not going to cut a round seat. You’ve got to have a good valve guide to cut a round seat. That’s the biggest thing.”



• Be careful with your machine work. When machining heads, take special care not to lower the seat too far and create a lip or change the way the entrance is to the bowl. Lowering the seats can hurt flow, Barnes says. “If you keep grinding the seat lower and lower, it starts to shroud the valve. Putting a bigger valve in a shrouded chamber may shroud the valve even more and lead to loss of power.” “
You can do a lot of harm by sinking the seat,” says Dorton. “That’s a big mistake—cutting them too deep and going and going. Quality equipment for machining seats and grinding valves is necessary. I am sure there are a number of opinions, but we have found the Serdi seat machine and valve grinder work best for us. We are able to efficiently maintain concentricity and surface finish with this equipment.

“Surface finish and concentricity must be held to close tolerances for heat dissipation of the valve and seat. The valve seat angle, as well as the angle or angles below and above the seat, play a critical part in airflow and the performance of the engine. Normally, the valve seat on both intake and exhaust valves is on the outer diameter of the valves, 0.060 and 0.080 wide. A back-cut angle, usually 10-15 degrees less than the seat angle, up to the id of the actual valve seat most always helps airflow and performance.”

• Check concentricity and perform a pressure test. The valve seat must be concentric—as round as possible—for the valve to seat properly and obtain the necessary seal in the combustion chamber. A concentricity gauge is a must. Once the angles are cut in the head, use the gauge to determine where you need to grind the seats to true them up. Go beyond what the guy down at the local garage or machine shop might be doing with heads off street car engines.
Once any concentricity issues are addressed, check to see that the valve is seating at the desired point. Lap the seat with a fine compound to see that the valve is seating right on its outside edge. Vacuum testing the head to make sure the valves are seating properly is critical. If you have a pressure leak, then you’ve got a problem—recheck the concentricity, the angles, etc.

• Preventive maintenance is crucial. Valve adjustments and spring checks should be part of your valve maintenance routine. If the valves are too tight, the engine won’t run efficiently. A loose valve will pound and actually start to bounce, thus destroying the seat.

“Naturally, once the valve job is done and the engine has run, it’s always critical to routinely each week adjust the valve lash and stay on top of that,” says Poe. “Oftentimes that will tell you if you have something going wrong. If the valve adjustment starts closing up, then you feel like the valve is either sinking in the seat or a valve stem could be stretching or you’ve got a problem somewhere. It’s critical to stay on top of the valve adjustment every week.”



Keep fresh valvesprings in the engine. Gauge the springs when they’re new so you’ll have a baseline figure to compare to when you check pressure after each run. “That way you can tell if one starts to fall off,” Dorton says. “Usually, they won’t all go at one time. One will go, then another one. It’s critical to check every one because, generally, they won’t all fall flat at once, just one here and there.”

 

 

This it right. If the radiator were a heater and your goal was to get heat from it to warm yourself...which would extract more total heat? 1. Filling the rad w/hot water then stopping the flow and keep the fans running? Or 2. keep the radiator filled with hot water by keeping it flowing through the system??

2. Keep hot water flowing through the system, will expel more heat to warm you better. If it's expelling more heat, then it is cooling better. Has to be.

Now, here is some science behind the LORE. The Old wives Crap.

We strongly recommend NEVER using a restrictor: they decrease coolant flow and ultimately inhibit cooling.
A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.

Years ago, cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many enthusiasts mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool. Using restrictors or slowing water pump speed prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler. However, cars built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it.