You must be on a laptop .
Look for a Key that looks like this Fn. Hold it down while you use the blue numbers in the right side of your keyboard.

Its called the function key it activates all the little blue stuff on your keyboard. It allowes you to adjust volume, LCD brightness, toggle LCD to external display, mute and other functions.

Reminds me of a story..
User called me one day "I cant get my projector to show off my laptop!"
I told her to hold down the Fn and press the CRT/LCD key to toggle her screen.
She said " FN! key they are all FNING!! keys to me."

 

I should clarify to the OP that I have not suggested that you should run around everyday without the T-stat just to run cooler. Arron Johnson mentions it as a quick troubleshoot step for certain overheating problems, not as a suggestion to toss your T-stat in the trash and run around everyday without it so don't get the wrong idea. Each time I've done that it was as a temporary diagnosing test drive only. My point was to simply show that someone who's been building performance engines since the 70's and still does to this day does not believe in the "not enough time in the radiator to cool" theory.

So to answer you original question as to why not just remove the T-stat all together permanently?

The manufacturer's goal was to reduce engine wear and fuel consumption by getting the engine up to normal operating temps quicker and once there regulate that temperature within a specific operating range. Why? A cold engine requires more fuel and wears faster than a warm engine does. The motor oil needs to also come up to temperature and the engine's internal clearances change with heat expansion.

You don't really want to run around everyday with no T-stat in your car. The trade off is extended warm up time during cold start since the coolant is already flowing through the radiator right off the bat. The T-stat keeps the coolant at a stand still during this warm up phase. The coolant trapped in the block during this phase heats up quicker that if the coolant was already flowing freely with no T-stat there to begin with. This is why when a T-stat fails in the open position the car takes noticeably longer to reach operating temps from a cold start than it normally did before.

T-stats don't slam open at their rated temp. They slowly begin to open and once there regulate the minimum operating temp that the motor runs at while reducing cold start warm up time.

If you want to run cooler make sure the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff first. And if needed activate your fans earlier with either a low temp aftermarket switch or a chip. It's amazing how some folks over complicate this topic. It's not that difficult.

 

Wow... just wow.

Thermostats were invented by rednecks driving in circles?

I hate to break it to you but thermostats have been in cars since the 30s and those redneck motors turn 9,000+ rpm.

I'm not even going to bother with the rest of that awesome post.


.

 

And those "rednecks" are in town this weekend!!!

 

Never said the good 'ol boys used thermostats ... they used washers to mimic them and restrict ( slow down the flow ) and used big pulleys to slow down the water pump so the water had a bit more time to remove the heat...

Far in excess of 6000 rpm just might work out to 9400 ... Eh ?


If you like thermostats , run one .......... Bet those 9000 rpm motors don't have any ... ....

 

And thats a FAST track y'all have there ................... in spite of those thermostats they put under the carburetors ..................

 

I want my heater to work before I drive eleventyfive miles. Your car will also stay in open loop longer.
I will used a T-stat and if you don't agree .. then don't use one.
Sound like a plan?

 

Hey ya'll watch this.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Va07akbHIOA

 

The land of the free and the home of the brave ... pick whatever number floats your boat ... 160 ... 180 ... 195

 

They slowed the coolant flow so that cavitation didn't occur, there is a limit to coolant flow velocity and that is where cavitation occurs.

 

And finally here's my 2 cents: I just took it for a drive today with the 160* thermostat. Compared to having no thermostat, the car heats up faster, and, in my mind, runs around 10-15* cooler. It also takes longer for it to come up to the temperature at which the coolant fan comes on. It does make sense that slowing down the coolant gives it more time to cool off. But the guys who are saying speeding it up makes it cooler are only half right. If you are going to speed up the coolant by taking the thermostat out or adding a high flow water pump to make it run cooler, you need a bigger radiator to give the coolant enough time to transfer the heat properly. There are also coolant additives that some people use that allow the coolant to transfer heat more quickly. In my mind, it doesn't really make sense to try to make the coolant to go through the system faster. IF it does make it cooler, the engine is only going make at best 1/4 extra hp.

 

I did...hopefully compensate for an underdriven water pump.
160 stat
stock style radiator
hot engine with a single 2360 cfm fan.

 

Elaborate?

 

Yep, laptop. Nope, no keypad AT ALL on this PC. Just the numbers across the top. Can't figure out why they made one this way. But, I bought it because the price was right (for a faster dual-processor with a big-azz hard drive).

I compare it to buying a sports car with a big *** motor and large gas tank w/o a radio.


WAIT! For this thread, I should have said big-*** motor, large gas tank and no thermostat!!!

 

Look at the heat flow equation, Q = 8.3 x GPH x Cp x dT. This equation has been around for at least 100 years and if you studied heat flow this simple equation is as obvious as the nose on your face. Heat flow increases with increasing coolant flow rate (GPH, gallons per hour). If you take more heat out of the engine block, the coolant temperature decreases. Also, why isn't it obvious to those of you that think the coolant has to stay longer in the radiator not think of the fact that then the coolant will also stay longer in the block and pick up more heat? You guys probably also think that heavier objects fall faster than lighter objects, after all a bowling ball always hits the floor before a feather does.

 

Assuming two objects have the same shape, but one is denser than the other, yes, as height increases the denser (and therefore higher mass) object will achieve higher velocities.

 

 

I think you highlighted the wrong part, and meant to say, "Sorry, in a way I guess we're both right, but there are just too many variables to say yes remove the thermostat and your engine will be better off because it will be cooler."

 

Is there no blue Fn key ?.. if there is there should be blue keypad numbers encorporated into the regular keyboard. If they are not there ..then I agree it's a crapy laptop.

 

Just curious if any of the slow-flow preachers bought hi-flow water pumps ... and , if so , WHY ? ... FWIW ... I measured a thermostat's opening diameter and its just over an inch ... almost the same diameter as the I.D. of the thermostat housing outlet nipple ... looks like we have some designed-in restriction to water flow ... might 'splain why some see little difference with or without a stat ... the stats sole purpose is to quicken the warm-up ... warm engines are friendlier ... the 195 operating temp is to aid in emission control ... if you gutted your cats or removed the EGR , A.I.R. or had some tuning done ... you probably already defeated that purpose and should pick whichever stat number sounds best to you ...as to what works best in your car , in your climate , and under your operating conditions ... Well , thats up to you to experiment with and discover for yourself ............ ..............