C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

yet another 160* thermostat thread

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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:21 PM
  #61  
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Im still stuck on posting the degree thingy.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #62  
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WTF just happen here.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by sailorsteve
I'm going to show off, I learned too. The easiest way is to hold ALT while typing, on the right-side numerical keypad, 248 You can also find symbols on the character map, All programs> accessories> system tools> character map. Pretty cool stuff. Also, look at the website www.howtotype.net.
alt while typing 0176 works too!
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 09:16 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Im still stuck on posting the degree thingy.
You've got to walk and chew gum at the same time.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Z-07 freak
You've got to walk and chew gum at the same time.
I thought it was a satire about everyone flexing a little muscle -- if you know what I mean! Or, more precisely to get that 160-stat-know-it-all-mentality rolling!


Last edited by GREGGPENN; Nov 4, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #66  
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Heat transfer is more efficient at larger TDs ( temperature differences )

All things staying equal .... fan size , radiator area, fluid flow rates...

Take a 100 degree day ( for round numbers ) and a 200 degree antifreeze temperature , you might get a 50 degree drop between radiator input and output temperatures. Temp drop of 50 degrees x flow rate = some specific BTU transfer from fluid to air.

Drop the input temperature to 160 degrees and you might see a output temperature of ( for this example ) 130 degrees.

You have just lowered the outlet temp by 20 degrees, but the hotter radiator is still removing an additional twenty degrees x flow rate more heat.

Under "marginal" conditions, higher temp thermostats can compensate for inadequate air flow / heat transfer in a system that is running at it's maximum efficiency.

If the heat source ( engine ) BTUs are larger than the ability of the radiator to remove the heat at 160 degrees, then by going to a 180 degree thermostat , the radiator / heat transfer efficiency is improved.

Maybe enough to prevent boiling the coolant ( which is the ultimate goal in the first place. ) Long-term though, the radiator and engine will eventually reach a temperature equilibrium regardless of the thermostat rating.

If you have a over-sized ( or proper sized ) radiator, removing the thermostat lowers both the heat transfer rates AND lowers the overall temperatures.

Don in Huntsville

and yes, I am a rocket scientist
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #67  
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without a t-stat my car runs at eleventy-billion°

it worked, ALT and type 248 i feel special
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Steve85
without a t-stat my car runs at eleventy-billion°

it worked, ALT and type 248 i feel special
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:21 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Im still stuck on posting the degree thingy.
**************************************** **************************************** **************************************** ****************************************



= 160 degrees

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Blue95C4
Heat transfer is more efficient at larger TDs ( temperature differences )

All things staying equal .... fan size , radiator area, fluid flow rates...

Take a 100 degree day ( for round numbers ) and a 200 degree antifreeze temperature , you might get a 50 degree drop between radiator input and output temperatures. Temp drop of 50 degrees x flow rate = some specific BTU transfer from fluid to air.

Drop the input temperature to 160 degrees and you might see a output temperature of ( for this example ) 130 degrees.

You have just lowered the outlet temp by 20 degrees, but the hotter radiator is still removing an additional twenty degrees x flow rate more heat.

Under "marginal" conditions, higher temp thermostats can compensate for inadequate air flow / heat transfer in a system that is running at it's maximum efficiency.

If the heat source ( engine ) BTUs are larger than the ability of the radiator to remove the heat at 160 degrees, then by going to a 180 degree thermostat , the radiator / heat transfer efficiency is improved.

Maybe enough to prevent boiling the coolant ( which is the ultimate goal in the first place. ) Long-term though, the radiator and engine will eventually reach a temperature equilibrium regardless of the thermostat rating.

If you have a over-sized ( or proper sized ) radiator, removing the thermostat lowers both the heat transfer rates AND lowers the overall temperatures.

Don in Huntsville

and yes, I am a rocket scientist
Uhhhh,,,,wait a minute. As the lower temp thermostat (or no thermostat) engine approaches the (presumed same) equilibrium state, both would boil over -- or not.

How can you (did you) determine that the longer interval for heating of the lower (or no) thermostat system would take LESS time to boil over than the one reaching "temp" faster (where it's removing more heat to cool temps down where the low/no system is running).

If the time required for the low/no stat system to get to operating temp is LONGER than the one with a thermostat,,,,and, if heat transfer is/would be the same -- once they reach that same operating temp, how does the system taking longer time to get to operating temp overtake/pass the thermostated system and boil over first?

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #71  
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BTW: My stupidazz Dell doesn't have a numeric keypad. Using the alt (or ctrl) key with the top number keys does not work to create any of the special ASCII characters.

Just another reason to add to my disgust with Dell.


160-degrees!
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #72  
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The radiator has a ∆T (Delta T) and thermal efficiency %

Inlet temps ??? Outlet temps....all a competent of how many Therms you can remove
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
The radiator has a ∆T (Delta T) and thermal efficiency %

Inlet temps ??? Outlet temps....all a competent of how many Therms you can remove
A competent? Really? BTW, what is a, "Therm"? If you are going for abbreviations, BTU is shorter than Therm.

Last edited by jfb; Nov 5, 2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 01:25 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
how does the system taking longer time to get to operating temp overtake/pass the thermostated system and boil over first?
Again, it depends on
( 1 ) "how much radiator" and "how much engine".
( 2 ) consider that the radiator "averages" out the heat load.
The engine, depending on the load and right foot, varies greatly
in BTU production and thermal lag. ( usual cause of boil-over )

If a thermostat/radiator combination can hold temps at 180... again averaged over time, temps might not peak and belch coolant.

At some point, thermostat or not, the system will find its peak temperature. Hopefully that temp is below the radiator's capacity.

Don
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
BTW: My stupidazz Dell doesn't have a numeric keypad. Using the alt (or ctrl) key with the top number keys does not work to create any of the special ASCII characters.

Just another reason to add to my disgust with Dell.

160-degrees!
Don't blame Dell.

You can still type any symbol you want by using the Character Map program built into XP and Vista. Not sure if it's in Windows 7 or not.

Check this like out.
http://tlt.its.psu.edu/suggestions/i...s/charmap.html
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
BTW: My stupidazz Dell doesn't have a numeric keypad. Using the alt (or ctrl) key with the top number keys does not work to create any of the special ASCII characters.

Just another reason to add to my disgust with Dell.


160-degrees!
I am typing this on my stupidazz Dell °°°.

See my post, #57 on this thread, to type special characters w/o numeric keypad.

Last edited by sailorsteve; Nov 5, 2010 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #77  
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Also easy on a Mac.

degree symbol: °
<option><shift><8>
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To yet another 160* thermostat thread

Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by jfb
A competent? Really? BTW, what is a, "Therm"? If you are going for abbreviations, BTU is shorter than Therm.
I reffed two games last night....yes I was really tired
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Maybe DeWitts can pop in hes the expert here sure he could give some great info.
Really?
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:14 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Really?
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