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I just replaced the water pump/thermostat. I'm waiting on two heater hoses that are backordered. Will be replacing all hoses, so I will probably have more air in the system than normal. I did not drill any holes in the thermostat. Any tips or advice on refilling the system would be greatly appreciated.
I would pull the t housing and drill 1 or 2 1 /16 holes in it,not needed though.
fill system, put rags around the brass bleeder and open it just a liittle.start the engine and let her run opening the bleeder untill coolant comes out,repeat this every minute or so untill no air comes out.
I would pull the t housing and drill 1 or 2 1 /16 holes in it,not needed though.
fill system, put rags around the brass bleeder and open it just a liittle.start the engine and let her run opening the bleeder untill coolant comes out,repeat this every minute or so untill no air comes out.
Be sure to bleed it with it at op temp and t/stat open to get all of the air out. I don't believe in holes in the t/stat, but many others do, so your choice.
Raising the front end should help a lot too. I've been fighting air in my 87 for the last 2 weeks. Finally drove it up on 10" ramps, and holy crap, did the rad level drop... more than any of the other attempts.
Raising the front end should help a lot too. I've been fighting air in my 87 for the last 2 weeks. Finally drove it up on 10" ramps, and holy crap, did the rad level drop... more than any of the other attempts.
A local tire store had a sale on radiator flushes so I took it there. They had the front end raised about 18 inches. When i asked why, they told me it was to get all the air out of the system. Seems to have worked well. No temp issues.
Not sure if this helps...
I have a 96 Imp SS, it has the de-tuned LT-1 with iron heads. I know WP is different style
but basically same design.
If this is the motor in your vette i can tell ya i did WP and T-stat in my drive way this summer and had the front on jack stands when i bled the system.
After i filled it i left the cap open on overflow tank (reverse flow cooling) and watched it suck the fluid as car warmed up and added fuid as needed.
Once at operating temp i shut her down and let cool off.
Once cool i put cap on and ran the car again in driveway, once at operating temp cracked open the bleed screw on T-stat housing to make sure no air and just fluid came out.
I was now done.
Your Owners Manual (the small one that comes with the car) has the procedure listed. No need to be creative or resort to "trick of the week" measures.
I often wonder why guys prefer to deviate from or ignore GM's recommended procedures. Take something so simple and turn it into something more complicated.
Both my son and I have 96s and all we do is follow the Owners Manual directions.
Your Owners Manual (the small one that comes with the car) has the procedure listed. No need to be creative or resort to "trick of the week" measures.
I often wonder why guys prefer to deviate from or ignore GM's recommended procedures. Take something so simple and turn it into something more complicated.
Both my son and I have 96s and all we do is follow the Owners Manual directions.
Jake
Ever stop to think that there's a chance GM didn't get everything right? Not to mention that the owner's manual was meant to be used by someone who had minimal-to-no experience in auto mechanics, not someone who just replaced a radiator/heater core/water pump, etc.
that the owner's manual was meant to be used by someone who had minimal-to-no experience in auto mechanics, not someone who just replaced a radiator/heater core/water pump, etc.
I just replaced the etc on mine the other day...but I didn't use any manual because I couldn't find the etc referenced in them.
I just replaced the etc on mine the other day...but I didn't use any manual because I couldn't find the etc referenced in them.
I haven't looked at my owner's manual yet. I bet it would have been useful for figuring out how to get some of those bolts off that were keeping me from getting at the heater core...
I haven't looked at my owner's manual yet. I bet it would have been useful for figuring out how to get some of those bolts off that were keeping me from getting at the heater core...
I'm gunna attempt to swap my busted heater core this upcoming weekend...I figure the task is going to suck no matter what literature I use.
Ever stop to think that there's a chance GM didn't get everything right? Not to mention that the owner's manual was meant to be used by someone who had minimal-to-no experience in auto mechanics, not someone who just replaced a radiator/heater core/water pump, etc.
No need to muddy the waters with suppositions and "what-if's" It's a simple, basic procedure. Not complex, in need of a lot of "one-off" procedures.