MandyLee512

I changed my plugs and wires myself, and I thought I did a pretty good job, with only changing one plug and wire at a time, and making sure that everything connected where it was supposed to.

I started my car, and it was really rough, so I assumed that I messed up. I started over with the spark plug wire placement. (When I started swapping wires around, I noticed that one of the wires on the distributor wasn't connected! That was probably the problem to begin with) I have the Haynes manual, and I followed the diagram the "1991 and earlier." The car will not even run now! I have no idea what is going on.

According to the diagram, from the front of the car, the bottom right cylinder is 1, and the top left cylinder is 8. (I hope I described that correctly!) And this same diagram has the plugs connecting to the distributor in a clockwise rotation, starting with 1 at like......between 5 and 6 o'clock. This is the diagram I followed, and the damn thing will not run.

I have to take this car to work in 13 hours. Please help.

Really, I just need to find out what that first configuration was, that I switched from.

Oh, its a 1987

383vett

Do you remember where the original #1 wire was? If not, you'll have to start from scratch; pull the cap, pull spark plug #1, with your finger over the spark plug hole, have someone turn the motor over until air is forced out of the hole. Line up the timing marker to tdc. See where the rotor is pointing to, that will be the #1 wire. Start replacing the wires in a clockwire direction going 18436572. Good luck.

MandyLee512

Yup, I actually got the answer on the Autozone website. Exactly as you said, 18436572. I'm amazed that the Haynes manual was wrong. I'm such a nerd, I feel betrayed.

Thanks anyways. : )

C409

Use that Haynes manual to level your workbench or patio furniture and buy a Factory Service Manual ..... they're priceless ..... just do a search on the forum here .......... ................

Qiken

Have a look at the intake manifold torque sequence in the Haynes.....
shows wrong picture for the 89 for example...Total opposite and incorrect procedure to the FSM..

86PACER

The problem with the Chilton and Haynes manuals is that they roll the entire C4 generation 84-96 into one book. There are a lot of little differences between the years and these books sometimes don't get it right. The wiring diagrams are not entirely accurate and generic. You have to weed and sift through information that does not apply to you and I've found mistakes in both.

The year specific GM shop manual is the way to go.

Which cap terminal you choose for #1 does not really matter as long as you install the plug wires on the cap in the right firing order clockwise after that. The Deep notch on the timing tab of the timing cover is zero. That is where the line on the balancer should be pointing when #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closesd; not exhaust stroke when exhaust valve is open) and the distributor rotor is pointed to the #1 cap terminal of your choice. I like setting my cap terminals just the way they are shown in the picture. This allows easier routing of the plug wires to their respective plugs. It also positions the 3 electrical connectors on the side of the distributor cap centered towards the driver side pointing towards the battery of the car for easy access, instead of bunched up against the firewall or back of the plenum where it makes it hard to get to them with your hand.

86PACER

That method is not entirely accurate. The distributor is advanced anyway and the timing marks are often rusted and unreadable.

The best way is putting #1 piston at true physical TDC on the compression stroke (both #1 valves closed) and then visually checking that the balancer mark is perfectly aligned with the deep notch of the timing tab.

The timing tab has a hole drilled in it. I don't know what it's for but you can use it to tell if the balancer has moved. If you can see any part of the balancer through the hole on the timing tab from above this means that the balancer has seperated from it's center hub and shifted backwards closer towards the timing cover. This is what that looks like.

Left: slipped
Right: not slipped

383vett

If you suspect the balancer has spun and the mark is off, the only way to establish tdc without taking the heads off is with a piston stop. Screw this into the spark plug hole on #1, rotate the motor gently one way until the motor stops turning and mark this spot on the balancer next to the timing tab. Rotate the motor the opposite way until the motor stops, mark this spot. The center of the two spots on the balancer is your true tdc.

Qiken

Haynes Being a "Generic Manual" as previously mentioned covers many years, and this sometimes causes the problems.

For my 89 the FSM Indicates

12 11 4 1 5 6
Front
10 9 3 2 7 8