C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Cold Air Benefit

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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #21  
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I had the SLP claw on my 93. Looked great. Sounded a whole lot better. Easy install. Any real benefit from a free flow intake is not realized until you do more mods. Seemed my gas mileage got a little better. I liked it. Would I install it again. Yes.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:10 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dogfish246

Is the distance from the MAF sensor to the end of the intake that important? Why?
Only to the extent that you need to get the airbridge to wrap around the radiator properly. Otherwise you would have sealing issues in the couplings. The stress on them if they bind combined with heat expansion will cause the tubing to bend and change shape creating gaps in the seal.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
Only to the extent that you need to get the airbridge to wrap around the radiator properly. Otherwise you would have sealing issues in the couplings. The stress on them if they bind combined with heat expansion will cause the tubing to bend and change shape creating gaps in the seal.
Gotcha... Im really thinking about this one. I want to figure out the surface area on our stock intake vs the surface area on the knn filter. I also want to find a way to make it look good and fit well. Pepboys had a lot of intake hoses and attachments. I think next week I will be stopping by for some ideas!
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #24  
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I had a similar unit built in to a ram air box with a scoop that went under the car that I sold. I notice the difference with out it in response and sound.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 05:22 PM
  #25  
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Ya gotta realize one thing guys. Tinkering is always fun. But this factory filter was designed to also support A 7,000rpm 400hp motor. Notice when they went from 375hp to 405 the filter didn't change? So The 2hp changes are to be expected really. The factory filter just flows. That's why I say the forced air kit or vortex(or a homemade brew) are the only ones worth it because they draw air from outside. I without a doubt notice my car getting faster now that its cold out. Can either suck 120+ degree air in from under the hood mostly or can suck in 60 degree air in this kind of weather.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by McGirk94LT1
Ya gotta realize one thing guys. Tinkering is always fun. But this factory filter was designed to also support A 7,000rpm 400hp motor. Notice when they went from 375hp to 405 the filter didn't change? So The 2hp changes are to be expected really. The factory filter just flows. That's why I say the forced air kit or vortex(or a homemade brew) are the only ones worth it because they draw air from outside. I without a doubt notice my car getting faster now that its cold out. Can either suck 120+ degree air in from under the hood mostly or can suck in 60 degree air in this kind of weather.
In all of my tinkering, mostly because I was bored and/ or just wanted to try something different, I noticed a couple of things. One is that the air in that little area in front of the radiator actually stays pretty cool compared to the engine bay itself. (I know, duh) There are a couple of small gaps next to the rad shroud that let air directly into that area. Also, that the radiator shroud and back gets really hot. (again, duh). But this is what really turns me away from the claw. It's tubing is steel, therefore any "cold air" going in gets heated really quick. The C5/C6 products out there are either plastic or carbon fiber. Plus their filters are huge and draw in a 360* fashion.

So my thinking, as unscientific as it may be, is that if I put a huge filter into heat transfer resistant material, the amount of "cool" air might be enough in volume that the heat from the engine bay will not heat it up as quickly.
If that 405 HP w/ stock set up had a C5/C6 aftermarket in a cut shroud, might it make 420-430 HP with the larger volume of cooler air? If so, then wouldn't my meager little 340-350 hp lt4 (hotcamed) make 350-360?

Of course, it may not produce that kind of gain, and I kinda doubt that it would. Which is why I am not jumping on paying $300+ plus and just holding out for a used one that needs a new home. Also thinking that one day I might actually splurge on some porting and bigger valves, along with LT headers, this might be just what I will need...maybe...I think.

"Sometimes, I think I need to re-think the way I think I think...I think."

Last edited by lt4obsesses; Nov 18, 2010 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 04:44 AM
  #27  
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It very well could be. It did change from 375hp to 405hp needs. But it may need to be changed to feed 430 yeah. Either way, the most efficient way would be to draw it in from outside, if not isolate it outside. Some engine heat is good, but no heat is better. But you may not be able to achieve that since the heat is constantly radiating. But your right, plastics are way to go. Guy tried to show off his mopar intake on his challenger, so first thing i do is touch the metal tubing. Sure enough it was hot. He didnt really take notice, or even think about why i did that. But in the end hes left with deminished results at an expensive price. But all a matter of getting the looks, and getting the hp YOU want out of it. SLP sure looks cool(ok to be honest i personally dont think so) but does it fit your goal properly. If it does then awesome. If not mix it up a little. Like cutting three slits in the radiator shroud below each filter.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #28  
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Agreed, that I do not really care for the look of the claw that much either. But really question is effectiveness. I suppose that one could heat wrap the tubing, and it would help. But then it would look a little, well, you know. But on track day I doubt that anyone really cares about that too much. I doubt that cutting grooves in the shroud where the tubing is would do any good, in fact it might make it worse. The shroud insulates heat a little, and I would think that by the time air made it's way up top, the radiator would heat it more? So this would result in a direct flow of hot air to the metal tubes, if this is so.

What I like about the C5/C6 set up is that it does have a sharper angle which would put a good portion if not all of the filter below the shroud. So it would be taking "outside" air directly. Not really too much different from the Vortex Rammer, just a bigger filter and no "top" on it. Now, the two major problems I see with it. First, is protection. How to keep it dry, for those of us that use our Vette as our main source of transportation? Perhaps a little bit of a foam wrap, just thick enough to prevent moisture from hitting the filter? The other issue is heat from the radiator itself. It would be alot closer to the radiator. This would be more of an issue at idle, in stop and go, and perhaps not that big of deal.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #29  
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Default Cold Air Benefit

Thanks for all the responses. I guess I saved about $300 by listening to you guys.
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