Has anybody had any luck the following cold air system --SLP 21028 - SLP Cold Air Induction? They claim 10-20 HP gain. The ad says no modifications required just bolt it on. I have a Ruby. K&N doesn't offer a system for C-4's anymore.
Thanks
Lakeguy

 

Forget it unless your willing to make some little cuts here and there to make it a real cold air intake. Either vortex rammer or Forced Aire Intake. I have the vortex and it puts a huge cone filter right at level with the bumper, but outside the car. It claims ram air, but its not at all. However, when it gets colder out like it is now, I feel a huge difference in power. The forced air kit puts an open piece in place of your front plate cover that says "corvette". Then it just flows to a k and n style flat filter. Probably a ram air effect at speed. They are the only two decent ones out there. But both require you cut some things, namely your radiator shroud.

 

i pulled out my filter last night and cleaned it out. nasty nasty, all kinds of gunk caked up in the bottom of the collector. Kinda seems like a non efficient place to put the air collector if you ask me. hard to get fresh flowing air up there. I like the idea though of opening up the license plate area to get dome fresh air. For a daily driver though that would be a bad idea, water!

 

I heard the K & N quit making a ram air type because the factory system breathed just as well, and is actually fairly free flowing. So now they just recommend their flat filter replacement and then focus on the exhaust if you want it to breathe better. So essentially, the front end breathes pretty well from the factory. It's the other then that's all plugged up.

 

Read this...SLP Claw not worth it, get a K&N and an open air lid.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_06...dup/index.html

I also have a 93 Ruby (if you couldn't tell,) and have added the above with a x-pipe in place of resonator and muffler eliminators.
I run a best of 13.52@108.83MPH with crappy 2.28 60 foot times.

Note that MPH is good enough that IF I could launch the car it would be a high 12 second car.

 

I think the stock air inlet duct on the old L98's are woefully inadequate.....I am running the TPIS "racing air intake" made of fiberglass....had to cut the radiator shroud but the filter is open and collecting cold air from the radiator cavity .....care must be given in wet weather, but that is not a concern for me....doesn't get driven in the rain....higher profile body making air flow much better......my stock one seemed very narrow in the passage area; could not put my hand through it....the TPIS is much wider (larger) inside......a stock motor may be fine with the original though....I'm putting a lot more air through my 85 than it did in stock form....

 

No they aren't inadequate. Spend the money on real mods that make HP. Air filters and tubes aren't one of them.

 

The LT1 setup flows pretty good, especially for the stock engine! If you cut the lid and put a drop in KNN its like 1hp compared to the triple claw intake which is like 2-3hp (see link in above post). I will personally go and get a KNN filter once my stock filter gets dirty enough (no cut lid bc mines a daily driver)!

 

Nice

12 RWHP for $109

 

Bob did a dyno test too:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...o-results.html

 

Cool dyno info! So the claw is the best, but is it worth it? Also, what was done to the engine bc its making 400hp!!!

 

On a highly modded motor the difference will be greater than a stock one as its really trying to pull in more air. Id bet the paper is plenty adequate in most situations. if there is a power diff doubt youd actually feel it, never have personally outside of cost.

 

sorry......it was inadequate for me......look at my mods.......the stock one is probably good for you

 

Andy,
On my car 1986 car with my mods the stock air filter housing with K&N filter is restricting my engine to the tune of 3" of vacuum at 4000 RPM and higher. My set-up could benifit from a better flowing air filter set-up. If you are making 400 plus HP with the 1985 to 1989 factory air filter design it is a restriction. I have no date on the 1990 and up designs.

 

Keep in mind this is a larger engine using serious rpms and making great power and even so, the engine obviously isnt being super restricted by the intake. But forget the numbers. Look at the air fuel ratio on this chart. Obviously the speed density of the lt5 isnt accomidating for it. So my guess would be lt1/4 may actually achieve so so results with any of the aftermarket stuff, but l98's or lt1's using speed density arnt going to see much. And a tune @ say $400 to pick up 5 whp is just a bad investment... unless youve got everything else done at that point.

 

Hey Brian,

Something like this might work for you.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RP-5135

You will still need to get over the radiator somehow if you want to put it in the stock airbox location, but I think it will fit.

I think an ovaled tube or 4" silicone 45° bend partially squashed into an oval section would work.

Just throwing out ideas.

 

I have those mods too. Do you have some evidence it wasn't flowing enough?

 

What is the surface area of our stock filter? Or, what is the flow of our stock filter? That KNN mentioned above is pretty cool, I wonder how much better it would flow?

 

I'm looking into something like this myself. There are a variety of CAI's out there for the C5 and C6. K&N, Halltech, Vararam, Blackwing etc.

I tried once to fit a stock C5 airbridge to a K&N fipk filter. The trouble is that the slope of the radiator shroud on the C5 is steeper. On the C4 it lifts the filter section and causes issues with sealing and hood clearance. But, my plan is to cut the shroud so that the filter will have the proper angle. Then it should fit with no problem. The distance from the MAF to bridge the radiator is about the same.

Obviously the issues with this will be to secure the filter so it doesn't vibrate off, otherwise I might get a Wal-Mart bag in the intake. Also, weather protection to keep water off the filter.

I like this idea based on the theory that the LSx motors make more power based on more airflow. While that has much to do with head design in terms of combustion, the heads need more air through the intake. So I believe that a C5 or C6 design will do that for us, it is just a matter of making it fit. The filters on these aftermarket systems are huge in comparison to the claw. Like i said, at least on the LTx cars, the distance from the MAF to the radiator is about the same, it is just the angle of the radiator that is different.

 

Is the distance from the MAF sensor to the end of the intake that important? Why?