Hi,
To me this just seems goofy so I'm really hoping someone here will have some insight.
Twice in the last couple of weeks, on bitter cold days, I've gone to start my car and all of the dash lights all came up like normal, but when I turned the key... NOTHING. No clicking sound, no starter engaging, no nothing. I made sure I wasn't in gear, I tried over and over again to start it but nothing.
After several attempts I'd give up, go get warm, make a call for help, and when I would get back to the car twenty minutes late it starts just like normal.
???
Any ideas?
I have no clue of where to start.
Bob

 

If your car is an automatic, the neutral safety switch may be sticking.

If your car is a 6-speed, there is a safety switch on the clutch pedal that could be out of adjustment.

The circuit that sends power to the starter solenoid is not the same as the one that lights up the dash.

 

It's an automatic. I only mentioned the lights because I wanted to make it clear that the battery is strong. I wondered about the neutral switch, and shifted the car in and out of gear several times to get it to work, but nothing. Then, inexplicably, it would start later as if nothing was wrong. I'm stumped. (Thanks for the reply.)

 

The vat system thinks you used the wrong key. Once a wrong key is tried it will not start for 2 mins . even with the right key. Sorry I do not know how to fix. Do a search on v.a.t.s.

 

You have a VATS problem. Remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the two wires from above the steering column that go to a two pin connector. Unplug, insert key into ignition and measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. You should measure the same resistance as your key pellet. If more than 4% difference, you will need a new ign lock which has new contacts that make connection to the key pellet. You can clip a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet across the two pins in the wiring harness that the two wires plugged into to start your car. On each starting you will have to unconnect the resistor and reconnect it. If the resistance is ok, then check for 12v on the gear selector switch at the base of the automatic gear shift when you hit crank position on the ign sw. If no 12v, then check for 12v on each start enable relay contact, you may have a defective start enable relay.

 

Thanks for the advice JFB, I thought about the pellet on th key, but it works usually, only failing on the couple of occasions. I have a spare key so I'll bring that with me too. Of course if it is in the ignition lock that could be fun to change (not). Good thing I love this car... if it was anything else it would have a "for sale" sign on it by now.

 

You might want to check the actual ignition switch t the base of the column the one you put the key in is only the lock cylinder and pelet reader.
Dave

 

Bitter cold? in SFL that's mid 30s. Sounds like you battery doeasnt have the cold crank capacity to turn your engine over. Buy a higher capacity battery and you'll be good to go.

 

Try cleaning your key pellet with an alcohol wipe.

One question, you said all the lights etc. come on when you turn the key to the on position, but what happens you turn to start? Do they all go black? If so, you may simply have a poor connection on the battery terminal. Happened to me, I replaced the connector on the negative terminal (stripped) and it hasn't done it since.

 

I have a 95, with, da same issues. Your problem is not your battery or ignition. Your ECM and CCM are not communicating properly. This problem is very common in later model 'vettes. The only sure way to correct this major Chevy blunder, is to go around the CCM. Install a separate push-button switch for the starter and a separate toggle switch for the fuel pump. When the problem occurs again, your only issue will b the "security" light still on. I think u can deal with that minor irritation.

 

I think this is a good place to start cleaning the key and having a spare key. Bad battery connection if that bad would have been noted as he did not.

I think after this if needed, JFB has a more in depth procedure if needed to go there.

Even in cold weather a poor battery would click the solenoid and other relays would be heard.

All stated conditions by Bob2 indicates classic VATS activation.


I'm not sure what the Chevy blunder is? But I can tell you things work certain ways for specific reasons as per design. The 94-96 uses a PCM, some say same difference as a ECM. They do very similar things but as very different units plus PCM are much more reliable. I have a hard time drawing a conclusion that a communication problem exists. No real facts or existence of codes (SYS or SES light) to support a communication failure, more things would not work.

Of course you can bypass the starter and fuel pump circuits, no problem. But then you give up several anti-theft features of the car. You also give up engine safety in the event of loss of oil pressure, and fuel pump stoppage in event of "engine stop" or fire. I think it's best to, with a routine problem to at least try to repair things correctly.

Just my opinion and way of doing things.

 

While u sit there spending a fortune ""trying" to fix da problem, I'll let u know how da girls look on da strip; cause u definitely won't b there in that car, professor.

 

That's why I asked the question about the dash lights. I've had the dirty pellet situation, and the the dash lights stayed on while I turned the key. However, with the stripped battery terminal, all the power went black when I turned the key. It was when I wiggled the terminal and all came back that I discovered that problem. So, if the lights stay on, it's vats. If they go out, it's power source.

 

Please tell me da benefit n a anti-theft system, if da cars owner can't get it started either? I've consulted several dealerships, n not one plausible solution. GM should have recalled this car years ago.

 

Thought I'd help you out a little bit.

The benefit is there is a big difference between me not starting my car and a thief not starting my car.

Two things, one; these were among the first cars to use this technology, and considering the amount of vehicles equipped compared to failure of the equipment, it hardly calls for a recall. Two; these components are now 14 to 20+ years old. Stuff wears out so problems occur.

But, back to your question. If it fails, and I can't start it, all I have to do is fix the ignition system. If a thief steals it, I have to a) find the car b) fix all the stuff the thief broke and/or replace all the parts the thief stripped, and then reinstall the vats due to me learning a hard lesson.

 

If u knew anything bout corvette's you'd know that 1) no stolen 'vette is ever recovered in any repairable shape, 2) there are tens of thousands of 'vette owners that would strangle you for that comment 'bout "this being a minor problem" and 3) there is some validity to your point of continuous gas flow after engine failure. But your stuck-up response of .."just fixing it properly" was not very specific.

 

Welcome to the forum. How about exercising some polite manners?

 

I consider my responses more than adequate for the level of conversation displayed on this forum. Anyone who has an issue wi my responses, has a opportunity to speak for themselves .

 

Speaking for myself, sir, this forum for the most part, consists of people trying to help each other. Gratuitous insults do not contribute to this effort. Feeling the way you do, perhaps you are on the wrong forum.

 

This forum has helped most members solve the quirks of our C4s for many many years. Your attitude displayed in 5 days and 5 posts is distracting and not in the spirit I've come to know here.

The mods don't suffer a bad apple too long so enjoy your tenure for now.