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I have a HD rear toe bar from Corvette Central [ $309 ]that is constructed that way. It's on my race C4. Now that I have one [ bent the stock unit ] I'd have one on my street car also. Really heavy duty.
I have a HD rear toe bar from Corvette Central [ $309 ]that is constructed that way. It's on my race C4. Now that I have one [ bent the stock unit ] I'd have one on my street car also. Really heavy duty.
What size heim joints does it use? 3/4 like their struts?
Dave
I'm not sure if you are using these joints on the street or the track, but I heard that they tend to collect dirt and grit if used on the street and tend to wear quickly. On a track car, it wouldn't matter because miles don't accumulate that quickly. Plus, as we all know, $$$ is no object on the track. Willie
I took a quick peak under the car and the joints to appear to be around 3/4". If you really need the exact size let me know and I'll get under and measure them.
I took a quick peak under the car and the joints to appear to be around 3/4". If you really need the exact size let me know and I'll get under and measure them.
Any help you or anyone else can give me would certainly be appreciated. I did a little research and it looks like i can build these with off the shelf parts for a bunch less than the China made replacements and way less than NOS parts that at the end of the day are still 20 years old. I will be useing heim joints that are heat treaed steel with grease fittings and seals-it boots to keep the grime out. I only drive a few thousand miles a year so not worried about them wearing out very quickly if I keep them greased.
Dave
I'm not sure if you are using these joints on the street or the track, but I heard that they tend to collect dirt and grit if used on the street and tend to wear quickly. On a track car, it wouldn't matter because miles don't accumulate that quickly. Plus, as we all know, $$$ is no object on the track. Willie
This is true if you get the ones with grease fittings. I recommend the teflon lined non lubricated ones. I lubricate mine with dry lithium spray lubricant to minimize the dirt and grit.
The ones with boots sound like a great idea though.
This is true if you get the ones with grease fittings. I recommend the teflon lined non lubricated ones. I lubricate mine with dry lithium spray lubricant to minimize the dirt and grit.
The ones with boots sound like a great idea though.
I was told by a good friend of mine that owns a chassis shop for decades doing high end race stuff that if I did not buy the god harded steel parts with grease fittings they would pound out in short order so i am going that way. I have finished the camber rods and dog bones and they came out rear nice. I will take some pics of them with specs if anyone is interested this weekend. I hope to get them in by the end of the month.
Dave
They are indeed 3/4" units. Good luck in your fab work. I don't believe it will be difficult. The older I get the less I do ; instead I buy already built. LOL
They are indeed 3/4" units. Good luck in your fab work. I don't believe it will be difficult. The older I get the less I do ; instead I buy already built. LOL
Thanks for checking I will no doubt go that way though did see some high strength ones from FK bearings that were crazy strong like 40k+ pounds radial load with a 3/4 shank and 5/8 ball. Most of the taper to heim joint parts I have found are in 5/8 size. Also going to make install them last and figure out how far they need to travel and how much angle change they need too.
Has anyone considered poly joints? Something like this. http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-p...d-zerk-fitting
I have wondered about using something like this in a solid axle 4 link setup.
Again, I have no experience with these, just throwing it out there.
Has anyone considered poly joints? Something like this. http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-p...d-zerk-fitting
I have wondered about using something like this in a solid axle 4 link setup.
Again, I have no experience with these, just throwing it out there.
I tried some similar to the $20 polly ones on a non 'vette 4 link application and they sucked....there was no way your are going to set and maintain a correct pinion angle with any kind of a "load" using those things...as soon as the pinion angle starts to kick upward the polly squishes/moves and your done.....now by appearances it looks like their $50 ones might work a little better.
I made some to correct the bumpsteer years ago and used 5/8 heims. I used tapered to straight 5/8 studs from Coleman racing so I could add shims to get the bumpsteer corrected on a lowered car. It's worthwhile for a trackcar but limited benefit on the street. I used seals it parts too. Rodends: NMB = best and most $, National and Aurora next and then FK - I've had FKs loosen up pretty fast on other track cars. You can get Nationals for a good price from CV products.
I made up mine from 3/4 heims and swedged rods. Check my pictures, I uploaded a couple pictures
I am thinking about something similar though am going to make a cover plate that ties all the bolts together with the rear and makes a safty plate to capture the heims should they ever want to pull apart.
Dave