C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Heim joint rear toe links

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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Default Heim joint rear toe links

Does anyone have a set of these if so what size heims inner and outer are you running? Same goes for sway bar links front and rear?
Dave
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 08:18 AM
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I have a HD rear toe bar from Corvette Central [ $309 ]that is constructed that way. It's on my race C4. Now that I have one [ bent the stock unit ] I'd have one on my street car also. Really heavy duty.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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I made my own with 3/4" heims

Jim
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bus
I have a HD rear toe bar from Corvette Central [ $309 ]that is constructed that way. It's on my race C4. Now that I have one [ bent the stock unit ] I'd have one on my street car also. Really heavy duty.
What size heim joints does it use? 3/4 like their struts?
Dave
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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I'm not sure if you are using these joints on the street or the track, but I heard that they tend to collect dirt and grit if used on the street and tend to wear quickly. On a track car, it wouldn't matter because miles don't accumulate that quickly. Plus, as we all know, $$$ is no object on the track. Willie
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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I took a quick peak under the car and the joints to appear to be around 3/4". If you really need the exact size let me know and I'll get under and measure them.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bus
I took a quick peak under the car and the joints to appear to be around 3/4". If you really need the exact size let me know and I'll get under and measure them.
Any help you or anyone else can give me would certainly be appreciated. I did a little research and it looks like i can build these with off the shelf parts for a bunch less than the China made replacements and way less than NOS parts that at the end of the day are still 20 years old. I will be useing heim joints that are heat treaed steel with grease fittings and seals-it boots to keep the grime out. I only drive a few thousand miles a year so not worried about them wearing out very quickly if I keep them greased.
Dave
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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project

Making (cutting/threading) brackets and rods is the easy & inexpensive part....the cost of quality heim joint(s) are what eat you alive.


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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
I'm not sure if you are using these joints on the street or the track, but I heard that they tend to collect dirt and grit if used on the street and tend to wear quickly. On a track car, it wouldn't matter because miles don't accumulate that quickly. Plus, as we all know, $$$ is no object on the track. Willie
This is true if you get the ones with grease fittings. I recommend the teflon lined non lubricated ones. I lubricate mine with dry lithium spray lubricant to minimize the dirt and grit.
The ones with boots sound like a great idea though.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sidney004
This is true if you get the ones with grease fittings. I recommend the teflon lined non lubricated ones. I lubricate mine with dry lithium spray lubricant to minimize the dirt and grit.
The ones with boots sound like a great idea though.
I was told by a good friend of mine that owns a chassis shop for decades doing high end race stuff that if I did not buy the god harded steel parts with grease fittings they would pound out in short order so i am going that way. I have finished the camber rods and dog bones and they came out rear nice. I will take some pics of them with specs if anyone is interested this weekend. I hope to get them in by the end of the month.
Dave
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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They are indeed 3/4" units. Good luck in your fab work. I don't believe it will be difficult. The older I get the less I do ; instead I buy already built. LOL
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by The Bus
They are indeed 3/4" units. Good luck in your fab work. I don't believe it will be difficult. The older I get the less I do ; instead I buy already built. LOL
Thanks for checking I will no doubt go that way though did see some high strength ones from FK bearings that were crazy strong like 40k+ pounds radial load with a 3/4 shank and 5/8 ball. Most of the taper to heim joint parts I have found are in 5/8 size. Also going to make install them last and figure out how far they need to travel and how much angle change they need too.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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I made up mine from 3/4 heims and swedged rods. Check my pictures, I uploaded a couple pictures
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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There is a company called SEALS IT, I believe, that make rubber boots that go over the heim joints to keep dirt our of the joint.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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Has anyone considered poly joints? Something like this. http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-p...d-zerk-fitting
I have wondered about using something like this in a solid axle 4 link setup.
Again, I have no experience with these, just throwing it out there.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Has anyone considered poly joints? Something like this. http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-p...d-zerk-fitting
I have wondered about using something like this in a solid axle 4 link setup.
Again, I have no experience with these, just throwing it out there.
I tried some similar to the $20 polly ones on a non 'vette 4 link application and they sucked....there was no way your are going to set and maintain a correct pinion angle with any kind of a "load" using those things...as soon as the pinion angle starts to kick upward the polly squishes/moves and your done.....now by appearances it looks like their $50 ones might work a little better.

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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:07 AM
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I made some to correct the bumpsteer years ago and used 5/8 heims. I used tapered to straight 5/8 studs from Coleman racing so I could add shims to get the bumpsteer corrected on a lowered car. It's worthwhile for a trackcar but limited benefit on the street. I used seals it parts too. Rodends: NMB = best and most $, National and Aurora next and then FK - I've had FKs loosen up pretty fast on other track cars. You can get Nationals for a good price from CV products.

Good luck
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To Heim joint rear toe links

Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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When you say 3/4 heims are you talking the threaded part that goes in the swedged rod or the hole that bolts to the center bracket?
Dave
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by klkordzi
I made up mine from 3/4 heims and swedged rods. Check my pictures, I uploaded a couple pictures
I am thinking about something similar though am going to make a cover plate that ties all the bolts together with the rear and makes a safty plate to capture the heims should they ever want to pull apart.
Dave
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Where did you guys get your swedged rod? also where are you getting your heims? Anymore info would be great.
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