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210 degrees isnt hot for these cars, with a preasurized system and with no aftermarket upgrades you will probably see that most of the time. Water doesnt boil till 212 degrees and with antifreeze and a preasurized cooling system it will go higher. This is assum ing you dont have any other problems.
if your levels are good and you dont have a puddle of water under the car or large amounts of steam comming frfom the engine compartment, you are not over heating. Welcome to the world of C4.
if your levels are good and you dont have a puddle of water under the car or large amounts of steam comming frfom the engine compartment, you are not over heating. Welcome to the world of C4.
Umm no h2o puddle but htere is large amount of steam comming from the engine compartment.
the fans are temperature controlled and thru the controll unit, have you turned your A/C on to see if the back one runs at the same time. 'if' you have one , you wont be able to see the front one. If you are not mechanically adept, you've just reached a point where you need to have a mechanic look at it. It actually sounds like you are asking thesse questions for a boyfriend.
Not sure where the fan relays are on the 94 but with those bad the fans wont run.
as said the LT1s run warm and around 225-230ish your temp gauge will about be pegged making you think its overheating yet thats where its designed to run.
If you were a bit closer may be able to take a peek at it.
The sensor on the water pump sends coolant temp info to the computer (PCM) which in turn affects engine operations and powers the digital temp gauge. The analog temp gauge gets its info from a sensor on the pass side head. The readings will be only slightly different due to coolant flow under normal conditions. Now the engine fans are controlled by the PCM with on at 227*F for the primary (driver's side) and 236*F for the secondary (pass side fan). Some years both fans come on low speed at 227 and go to high speed at 237.
Earlier I asked if you bled the air out after you changed the t/stat. You have a brass bleed screw on the t/stat housing. Wrap a rag around it so nothing drips down on the opti, then with the engine at op temp and the t/stat open you want to open the bleed screw until only coolant comes out (usually only a second or two).
On the pass side top of the radiator shroud there is an opening where the AC lines go thru the shroud. Shine a light in there and see if the front of the radiator is clear of debris.
But from what you have said you really aren't having an overheating problem anyway.
ps - fan relays are on driver's side of the shroud.
the fans are temperature controlled and thru the controll unit, have you turned your A/C on to see if the back one runs at the same time. 'if' you have one , you wont be able to see the front one. If you are not mechanically adept, you've just reached a point where you need to have a mechanic look at it. It actually sounds like you are asking thesse questions for a boyfriend.
Noooo.....lol is for myself, but my Mom is the one actually working on it lol, shes a Super Mom!
The sensor on the water pump sends coolant temp info to the computer (PCM) which in turn affects engine operations and powers the digital temp gauge. The analog temp gauge gets its info from a sensor on the pass side head. The readings will be only slightly different due to coolant flow under normal conditions. Now the engine fans are controlled by the PCM with on at 227*F for the primary (driver's side) and 236*F for the secondary (pass side fan). Some years both fans come on low speed at 227 and go to high speed at 237.
Earlier I asked if you bled the air out after you changed the t/stat. You have a brass bleed screw on the t/stat housing. Wrap a rag around it so nothing drips down on the opti, then with the engine at op temp and the t/stat open you want to open the bleed screw until only coolant comes out (usually only a second or two).
On the pass side top of the radiator shroud there is an opening where the AC lines go thru the shroud. Shine a light in there and see if the front of the radiator is clear of debris.
But from what you have said you really aren't having an overheating problem anyway.
ps - fan relays are on driver's side of the shroud.
Oh lol yes, ok I did, for the t-stat well my Mom did...... Ok Im going to test run it again.....
if your levels are good and you dont have a puddle of water under the car or large amounts of steam comming frfom the engine compartment, you are not over heating. Welcome to the world of C4.
P.S. I dont have a boyfriend if I did, lol I dont think I would be asking for help, and thank you all very much you all are very helpful, thank u
you could probly fix two issues right in this forrum, the lack of a boyfriend and the lack of a mechanic familiar with C4 corvettes. seriously though , if you are test riding that just arround the neighborhood, or idling in your drive way, it will hit the upper limits of temp. pretty quick, the fan should have come on and went off a few times.
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Jan 13, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
you could probly fix two issues right in this forrum, the lack of a boyfriend and the lack of a mechanic familiar with C4 corvettes. seriously though , if you are test riding that just arround the neighborhood, or idling in your drive way, it will hit the upper limits of temp. pretty quick, the fan should have come on and went off a few times.
haha lol, Yes n kool :o but back to my Vette umm....I test on our drive way after changing the coolant sensor and now the fan to the driver side turns on after hitting 228 on the digital but for some reason the gauge shows it a bit higher, but the fan turns on with the digital and off after 210. Yay, it works now!!!! Thank God and thank each and one of you!!!!!!!