ICM failure again!!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,745
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hi Helphos
Some time i had this issue back fire no power, would idle ok but engine shaked,backfired when accelerating.
Turned out to be a injector connector. found it by starting engine running for a few secs and found one cylinder cold on the header.
Hope this info helps
Some time i had this issue back fire no power, would idle ok but engine shaked,backfired when accelerating.
Turned out to be a injector connector. found it by starting engine running for a few secs and found one cylinder cold on the header.
Hope this info helps
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 103
From: Olney MD
Connector wire
Hi Helphos
Some time i had this issue back fire no power, would idle ok but engine shaked,backfired when accelerating.
Turned out to be a injector connector. found it by starting engine running for a few secs and found one cylinder cold on the header.
Hope this info helps
Some time i had this issue back fire no power, would idle ok but engine shaked,backfired when accelerating.
Turned out to be a injector connector. found it by starting engine running for a few secs and found one cylinder cold on the header.
Hope this info helps
Happy 4th of July Weekend!
Paul
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I'm getting no codes! I am using a scan tool (not the paperclip method) and I would expect to see at least as many codes a s the paper clip would show. It's very frustrating- car runs poorly and backfires and scan tool shows 'no codes!'
I did check ICM - testing A and D (on the ICM plug) with a multimeter to ground, and both came up at 11.6 volts. I have not done the AC voltaqe test with a helper cranking the engine. I'll try that tonight.
I've replaced plugs and wires AND Coil! I'm doing everything I can to make sure that if I get down to replacing the Opti, then that will in fact get me running again.
I've visually checked hoses for vacuum leaks, and see none.
Please tell me it's not the dreaded Optispark!
I did check ICM - testing A and D (on the ICM plug) with a multimeter to ground, and both came up at 11.6 volts. I have not done the AC voltaqe test with a helper cranking the engine. I'll try that tonight.
I've replaced plugs and wires AND Coil! I'm doing everything I can to make sure that if I get down to replacing the Opti, then that will in fact get me running again.
I've visually checked hoses for vacuum leaks, and see none.
Please tell me it's not the dreaded Optispark!
Do the same on the ICM connector. If that does not help then replace the ICM.
Almost always the opti throws a code.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 33
From: Charlotte Michigan
When I replaced ICM and coil I used a thicker nylon washer to get it away from the head on each side of the bolt to lessen heat transfer to the bracket and used plenty of the compound between heat sink and the ICM. Seems to be working ok for 2 years. When I got the car it did not have the coil and ICM. I had a hard time finding the bracket but once I got it and heat sink I installed it as to factory spec, but lasted about 2 months before fixing it like I have it now.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 103
From: Olney MD
Suspicious ICM
Anyway the ICM is 'only' $100 or so, and if it would make my car run like the old days, it would be worth it.
It looks like I might not have to remove the whole coil-ICM assembly to get the ICM out. That would be nice.
Stay tuned!
Paul
