One or two of my four dash lights will occasionally go out. Because I've been running w/o the speedo bezel for quite awhile, I have easier access to the Atari dash.

When they go out, I pull the silver protective cap and tap the bulb. It always comes back on (and stays on for a few days/weeks). Because I'm finally wrapping up the interior redo, I want to reinstall the bezel and leave it alone. So...

Is this a problem with the bulb(s) or with the socket? I've read some historical posts (like this one) and have some doubt.

In several pages of reading, I didn't find my symptom listed though I'm sure I've seen it somewhere. It seems more likely that the base/circuit board is the issue. After reading Batee's site, it sounds like I'd have to remove and disassemble the cluster to gain access. Can't say I'm thrilled about disturbing older electronics if unnecessary. Plus, I'd want to have the necessary parts before the repair. What are the sockets referred to? Do I need them for an '89? Since they are termed "screw-in" sockets, how would that match up to a 2-pin bulb?

Could it be the bulb itself has a loose pin? It would be nice if swapping the bulb is all I need to do. Do they sell these bulbs at AutoZone/Advanced/O'Rielly's/etc...?

 

On my 89 dash, I was having troubles that required it to be completely dis-assembled. If I remember correctly, the oem bulbs were stuck in the twist-in base and had to be removed as an assembly from the rear. The replacements had a twist-in base, but the bulbs could be removed from the front (they were not stuck in the base).

On the back of the circuit board where the bulb bases twist in, there are two solder pads on either side of the hole. Two contacts on the bulb base make contact here. They were oxidized and indented from the original bulbs, so I ran a hot soldering iron over them to freshen them up. They have been working fine ever since.

 

Those bulbs are very hot and they oxidize the contacts in the socket which could be your problem. The other thing that can cause intermittent connection is the sockets twist lock onto the copper trace on the rear of the circuit board and the heat also oxidizes the circuit board conductor causing the same intermittent connection. You might be able to buy new sockets and/or clean the board traces for a more reliable connection to the socket spring fingers.

 

Your best bet to be intermittent free is to change the old bulbs and sockets out at the same time. As suggusted clean (pencil eraser works great) the socket's contact points on the cluster's PCB before twisting in new bulbs and sockets.

 

Seem to be lots of issues with these dash lights. My dash seems to work fine but I think 3 out of the 4 bulbs seem to be burned out. I found new bulbs at OReilly's (maybe with the base, too) but wonder if one of you could tell me specifically how to get to the old ones to R/R? I always hate working on the dash area as I am always thinking I won't see that last screw that needs removing so I don't crack something! Thanks.