I'm getting ready to replace my pads and rotors, it seems like a stright forward job, but looking for any tips or suggestions you guys may have..also I want to remove my calipers to clean and repaint them, I purchased a brake fluid bleeder from harbor freight, it hooks up to an air supply hose....

 

I have not seen that one there, but I have seen the vacuum gun type to draw from the calipers. Just wondering how that one connects…to the master?

Most people like speed bleeders. It's a one person job, easy to use and fairly clean to use also.

Are you planning to replace all the fluid in the lines or just bleed them for pad replacement?

 

You may want to think about replacing the hoses to the calipers. They are subject to deterioration over the years.

 

Thanks for the tip, I will replace the lines. Yes I plan on replacing all the fluid..here is the bleeder..

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...der-92924.html

 

The FSM says to toss the bolts used for attaching the caliper abutment bracket to the knuckle, but they can be re-used. If you have a wire brush wheel for a grinder, remove all traces of the old threadlocker from the threads. Get a 12 Gauge shotgun brass cleaning brush to clean the female threads on the brackets.

The small bolts that holds the caliper guide pins can be cleaned the same way. Pull the guide pin out of the bracket and clean the hole and pin with brake cleaner. Get some guide pin grease (any parts store will have the small plastic tubes) for re-greasing the pin. Check the condition of the rubber seal and replace as needed (common to most all GM disc calipers). The front calipers have a pin and C-clip to hold the caliper in place so check the condition of the pin and clip and replace if worn.

The rear calipers are similar except for two guide pins and bolts holding the caliper. The parking brake cable can be removed at the caliper with some work without loosening the cable adjuster.

The front caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 165 ft-lbs +/- 15 ft-lbs. 150-160 works fine here. Use some Blue Locktite for the threads and torque the bolts in two steps (75 and 150-ish). The red stuff needs heat to loosen so it's a real PITA if you use it and have to do brakes again. The front guide pin bolt takes 22-24 ft-lbs. Again, clean threads and Blue Locktite here.

The rear caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 70 ft-lbs. The upper guide pin bolt to 24 lbs and the lower bolt to 17 ft-lbs. No idea why the difference, but that's what the FSM says.

New hoses are a real good idea and you should probably do a complete fluid flush. Use a good quality DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA or Valvoline fluid. Takes about 3 pints to do a flush. To flush the ABS, you need a GM Tech-1 scan tool with the brake module, but it really isn't necessary as the ABS self test moves a small amount of fluid each time.

 

Before you use the power bleeder, may I suggest the best way and free way to bleed brakes. One man operation. It is called gravity bleeding. Take the cap off the reservoir and open and the bleeders. Let'em drip for a while keeping the reservoir full. Best way to get air out and easy to do. Just time consuming.

Make sure you put some clear tubing over the bleeders into jars so to catch the fluid. DO NOT PRESS ON THE BRAKE PEDAL while the bleeders are open.

 

Sounds like a great ''free'' way to get the air out but I would like to flush all the fluid...but thanks 93rubie I'll remember that tip.

c4cruiser..thanks

 

I use that bleeder all the time on my 92.
The only draw back is it can introduce air from the bleed screw threads.
I always follow up with a helper pumping the pedal and me turning the bleeder screw.
Gives me great brakes.

 

I use a vac-type bleeder to change fluid (Mityvac) and I too have seen the tiny bubbles that apparently get into the bleed hose from the bleeder threads. I have always wound up with a good firm pedal, even when changing out all the brake fluid. I think those little bubbles in the hose do not travel upstream into the calipers, after all, the whole process works on vaccuum, and for that air to go upstream would require pressure.

 

I bought one of these and it works pretty good. It came with a bunch of adapters to different bleeder screws but I found that using just the rubber tube was better.

M/C's usta come with little adapters to bleed em but I havent seen em in a while. Dunno what you can use other than maybe getting the nuts from auto parts and a short flared tube.