First of all I have having trouble getting the car to start, it has still be starting everything but it hasn't been a good time getting to that point. Only one time it started right up in the last 10 starts and that was after it being hot.

Second, the 6 speed transmission is giving me problems. When I get the car to high torque areas the car shutters. It shifts threw gears pretty alright and I can still get up to normal speeds.

All suggestions will help. I just bought the car for what I think is a very good deal with these seem to be small issues for me, but I could be wrong haha.

 

By not starting, do you mean the starter motor cranks the engine but the engine doesn't start, or the starter motor doesn't crank the engine. You need to supply much better details.

 

My mistake, the starter in new and it cranks really well but it just won't turn over. Then after a few seconds it starts to turn over but doesn't. Then by some magic it does turn over finally. After it starts it runs nice.

 

If you mean the starter is turning the motor but the motor isn't firing up right away it could be the opti going, that may also be the shutter you feel it may be missing at high rpms and not be a trans problem, I would check plugs, wires, coil, and icm before tearing into the opti though. Make sure you have spark from the coil and at the plugs. Also check fuel pressure it should be around 42 psi with key on and not bleed down to 0 right away after the pump stops running, If pressure is good you can put a noid light on the injectors to make sure they are firing.

 

Yes that is what happening. I will try something tomorrow and see what I can do. I am limited on tools because I just moved and didn't really bring anything with me. I will check the simple stuff tomorrow. Is there anyway to hook a computer up to the car and check if the opti is not working properly? Thanks for giving me hope that I don't need a new tranny or clutch right away!

 

you can pull codes with the paper clip method you can find some guides on how to do that here on the forum just do a search, there are also threads explaining what all the codes mean, there are scan tools you can use also, for mine I use a cable with my laptop and datamaster, mine is a 94 and uses an obdI cable with an obdII style connector I believe 95 is the same style. If you can get it running there are a lot of places that will scan your car for free. A bad opti wont always throw a code from what I understand they usually do if there is a problem with the optical sensor (the optical sensor tends to be the most reliable part though) but are less likely to if there is a problem with the cap and rotor (mine didn't throw codes when my 1st opti went)
I'm sure others will chime in also and give you plenty more advice
Good luck

 

I took it somewhere where they scan for free but since it is a 95 the guy told me he doesn't think the adapter will fit. After 96 they were all standardized to be the same? Do you think I should just change all the spark plugs and wires? That is a job I think I can handle no problem. I will start researching other things now. I went out to the car today for the first time, just bought it yesterday and I cannot get the car to work in the door lock hahah. I guess this is what happens when you buy a project car. I only have one key and it is for the ignition. Any other suggestions? I was just going to call a locksmith and have them open her up.

 

The key for the door locks is different than the ignition key calling a locksmith is probably your best bet there, as for the codes 96 is obdII so its different, 94-95 are odd ***** cause they are obdI with obdII style 16 pin connectors. Plugs and wires can be a real pain on these cars but it wouldn't hurt to replace them especially if they are the originals.

Here's how you can pull codes yourself and display them on the speedometer, found this on the forum doing a search. There are threads on the forum also that will tell you what every code means.

For the '94 - '95, 16 pins (but still OBD I):

Beginning in 1994, you short pin "12" to pin "4" and once again turn the ignition switch to "On" without starting the engine.

The speedometer will display any codes using the same protocol as the 1990-1993 model but there are some changes in the designation for the modules plus additional modules are added:

Module "1" is still the CCM module.

Module "4" is now called the PCM module (Powertrain Control Module) because automatic transmission computer control was added to Engine Control Module in 1994.

Module 7 (on the 1996 model only) is the RTD module. (This is the Real Time Dampening module which replaced the Selective Ride Control module in 1996).

Module 9 is the ABS/ASR module number from 1994 through 1996.

Finally, Module "A", the DERM (Dynamic Energy Control Module --- the air bag control module) will be requested to show any codes.

Just like the 1990-1993 display, you read the codes on the speedometer and read the module number on the trip odometer.

Again, you can cause the codes to repeat by turning the ignition off for five seconds and then back on.

Turn the ignition off and remove the short to restore normal operation.

 

So this is where the paperclip comes in! You connect the paperclip to those two pinholes and it shorts it out. Wonderful, glad I got some clarification on that. I will try it after I get the locksmith tomorrow. Where can I get a key other than the dealer? Can the locksmith get me one?

 

If you get the key from the dealer you will probably have to buy new locks and install them in the doors also to go with the new key, I would just ask the locksmith if he can make you a key, he should be able to.

 

Okay, before we tear down the motor, let's check the basics.

First, how old is the battery? I ask, because on these cars, old batteries can seem to be okay but yet not have enough juice to turn the motor over efficiently. The starters are smaller than on other V8's and need a good battery. There are alot of little things that trickle charge from the battery when the car sits, so it can long crank when cold, but start right up when warm, b/c the alternator has freshly charged the system. Mine is doing this right now. If you get it going, take it to the parts store and have them check it.

As far as the missing out in "high torque" areas. I am assuming that you mean when you are mashing on the go pedal, so 4,000 to 5,000 rpm range? As you stated it goes through the gears and drives normally just fine?

First, do the basic tune up stuff. Start with plugs. Maybe wires if they seem to have signs of age. Also, find the highest octane gas you can and fill it up. I just say this, because who knows what the previous owner put in there while trying to unload the car. At a 10.5:1 compression, fuel grade does make a difference. If they'd been putting 87 octane in it this would contribute to this problem.

Check your fuel pressure. As stated w/ key on engine off it should go to about 42 psi. Turn the key off and it should stay there about 30 min or so. If not you could have a leaky injector or failing pressure regulator. Check the regulator by pressuring up the system, remove the vacuum hose and tap the regulator, if you see fuel come out, the regulator is bad.

I'd say, at this point, check these things first. They're cheap and easy compared to jumping into the opti. Mine has 130K on it, survived a water pump failure, a coolant hose rupture, and is still going strong.

 

The battery is less than 6 months old and it has a new starter, both seem like the try to turn the car over really well, when I am driving it get a pretty high voltage. I just put high test gas on it on my drive home and I haven't tried to start it yet.

I should have said higher torque area, as in when I get to maybe 3k? Or if I lug the engine a little, the car shakes and coughs. I can change the plugs and wires but other than that I can try to do other things but it might not go to well haha. I have a maintenance repair book so I can give things a try. I'll keep you updated on my getting keys today and see how it starts today.

 

I'm at 129k now.

 

So I got the car unlocked and running a little. It started better today that it has in the past, maybe the high test gas helped? I checked the air filter to make sure she is getting air and it looked clean. The hose seemed a little loose so I tried to fix that up a little. I am going over to autozone noew and getting new plugs and some octane/ fuel injection cleaner and see what that does. Maybe I will change the oil today too since the change oil light is on. I was thinking about the fuel filter but I don't know how hard it is to get to that. I will keep everyone updated on what I find out today.

 

Fuel filter isn't too bad to change other than the fact you will have gas pouring on you the whole time
its underneath on the passenger side near the cat
cheap part and definitely good to change if you don't know when it was last done
When I changed mine not long after getting my 94 it looked like the oem filter that was installed at the factory which meant it had over 60k on it at the time

 

Newest update, drove the car today, ran great!!! Well I won't say great haha, make that a pretty okay. How I have no idea! I played with the electronic injection and I tried to replace the spark plugs but they were on sooo tight I could get the first two off so I gave up. But I drove up and down the road with no issues. Starting was still a little bit of a problem but it was better than before. It seems like it is going to start then everything stops for a split second then it trys to start some more. Could it be the security system? The way the car cuts out, that is what it seems like. It did make a loud noise at one point during starting. The noise was like a firm hit like a baseball hitting a fungo bat.

 

The security system will either disable the starter for a few minutes not allowing the car to even crank at all or cut power to the injectors after about 3 seconds of running and shut down the motor. The hard start sounds like it may be a fuel or spark issue but can also be other things. Try cleaning the MAF sensor, it can cause rough running and I've heard of them causing hard starts also when dirty. You can get MAF cleaner at an autoparts store or some people use alcohol and GENTLY clean the filaments with a Q-tip. Cleaning the MAF is cheap and easy and good maintenance also especially if its never been done. The noise may have been a backfire caused by a spark issue or fuel issue.

 

I tried to change the spark plugs today but they were so tight I couldn't get the first two off so I gave up. I guess I am just going to take it to a shop and have them put them on for me. I also need to get all the fluids replaced. Any suggestions on the cheapest place to get this done? The plugs will be a small shop, but I was thinking some name brand place that will do a complete systems flush including transmission fluid.

 

I would really try to avoid the "name brand" places. Let's just say those are the shops where the young mechanic gets his feet wet. I would say look up a Corvette club in your area, they may be able to lead you to a good place. That, or look in your phone book for performance shops. Find one that is enthusiastic about Chevy's, especially LTx motors. Odd thing is, these specialty shops can actually be a little more reasonable in their pricing.

 

Okay thanks. I was thinking about just changing the transmission oil myself, it doesn't look to be to hard, but if its only $20 to change I can just have someone else do it and not get yelled at by my apartment complex haha. I will get some amsoil and just get it over with haha. Being in phoenix I think I can find someone. I guess there are vette guys that do to this mall on saturdays, I am heading there this weekend for sure!