Ball Joint problems
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Ball Joint problems
Was replacing ball joints and hubs today, hubs were a breeze, but the ball joints are a totally different matter.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Was replacing ball joints and hubs today, hubs were a breeze, but the ball joints are a totally different matter.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
Cheap tools work for a while till they fail.
Been there too. Know your frustration.
Find another similar ball joint installation tool.
This time, get the threaded Lead Screw tight.
Maybe to 200-250lbs. About all those cheap ball joint tools can take.
Then take a large 48 oz steel headed hammer( also called an engineer's hammer)..........
Hit the the frame of the ball joint installation tool.
It will shock the loaded in ball joint to the last 1/8" you need to get the job done properly.
Wear safety glasses of course.
Metal chips in your eyes suck and ruin your weekend fun turning wrenches.
Don't hit the aluminum upper and lower control arms or ball joints with the hammer.
Immediate damage to each will result.
This old trick works great getting that last 1/8" inch you need every time installing ball joints.
I have done it hundreds of times at work on DD.
Brian
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Was replacing ball joints and hubs today, hubs were a breeze, but the ball joints are a totally different matter.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
There is a 1/3" gap between the top A arm and the steering knuckle.
The bottom is better, less than an 1/8" between the rim of the ball joint and the bottom of the bottom A arm.
I used a C clamp type Ball remover and just ran out of strength to get that final 1/8".
Top, I stripped the nut and broke the ball joint seperator.
Any suggestions would be most welcome and if you say blow up the car, I already thought of that.
BTW: Harbor Freight Ball and Tierod seperators are cheap pieces of crap.
Its China's fault for cheap tools and ours because many choose to buy them instead of Top Notch Tools like Snap On.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
"Pickle fork" style seperators are a cheap and easy way to go....they will kill the old grease boots but they seperate the joints in a flash.
From my experience "new" lower ball joints should be placed into the freezer for about 1/2 hour before installation (this shrinks the joint a bit to help it into the arm with less press effort). A minmum of a 6 ton press is what is best to use for the work. Those big "c" clamp style tools are best used for lighter applications such as U joint work.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Nothing else around to use.
Have broken Harbor freight tools also.
Just need to calm down and forget about the bad day.
Tomorrow or when you are ready,
You will have the job done right.
Ball joints installed and fully seated in your Corvette.
If every task or job was easy, you would never learn anything or have a lesson to always remember.
Brian
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
I posted this a few months ago. Buy a 7/16 bolt, I think it's 5 1/2" with a coupler (total only a couple of bucks at Orchard. Loosen the nut on one of the balljoints, place your newfound tool between the upper and lower studs and unscrew until one breaks loose. Do the same with the opposite. Works like a charm. Willie
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 30
From: Los Angeles CA
I posted this a few months ago. Buy a 7/16 bolt, I think it's 5 1/2" with a coupler (total only a couple of bucks at Orchard. Loosen the nut on one of the balljoints, place your newfound tool between the upper and lower studs and unscrew until one breaks loose. Do the same with the opposite. Works like a charm. Willie
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
383 vette, putting them back on is where I ran into the real problem. I saw your post, but I already had the seperator.
And to top it all off, I can't find the key to my wheels and I forgot to put the tierods on.
And to top it all off, I can't find the key to my wheels and I forgot to put the tierods on.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
Other than that, it's been a perfect weekend, right? At this point you will probably have to take the control arms off and use a press. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
