engine cooling
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engine cooling
my 88 will mostly be used for auto-x and drag racing. I have a new carbed 383 that makes 475 chp and I am wanting some extra cooling ability as summer is about to come. Currently on the street it runs right around 185-190 with 180 stat and 1 small bypass hole but I havent seen outside temps higher than 80 yet. I am using a mix of coolant, water wetter and distilled water at the moment. (I might up the water content a bit)
Will I see any improvement in cooling if I remove a/c condenser?
Currently, my pusher fan isnt hooked from the previous owner, will hooking that up help too?
I am trying to avoid buying a 4 core radiator but I accept that I might need to. I am considering the dewitts fan upgrade as a cheaper alternative.
Any thoughts and opinions?
Will I see any improvement in cooling if I remove a/c condenser?
Currently, my pusher fan isnt hooked from the previous owner, will hooking that up help too?
I am trying to avoid buying a 4 core radiator but I accept that I might need to. I am considering the dewitts fan upgrade as a cheaper alternative.
Any thoughts and opinions?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Is the radiator clean? Any indication of clogged tubes or junk inside? Have you removed all of the dirt and debris between the fins and between the radiator and A/C condenser?
The front fan won't turn on until around 235-238 degrees and then will turn off when the temp drops a good 40 degrees. The sensor on the driver's side cylinder head is what feeds the ECM so it knows when to activate the fan relay.
A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant and water will set the boiling point to around 260 degrees using a 15psi cap. Distilled water doesn't have the contaminants that tap water does. Make sure the lower hose is in good shape so it won't collapse.
You can also re-wire the fans and use a manual switch to turn them on. That could be a big help for hot days in between runs at either an autocross or drag race event.
The front fan won't turn on until around 235-238 degrees and then will turn off when the temp drops a good 40 degrees. The sensor on the driver's side cylinder head is what feeds the ECM so it knows when to activate the fan relay.
A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant and water will set the boiling point to around 260 degrees using a 15psi cap. Distilled water doesn't have the contaminants that tap water does. Make sure the lower hose is in good shape so it won't collapse.
You can also re-wire the fans and use a manual switch to turn them on. That could be a big help for hot days in between runs at either an autocross or drag race event.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 702
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Is the radiator clean? Any indication of clogged tubes or junk inside? Have you removed all of the dirt and debris between the fins and between the radiator and A/C condenser?
The front fan won't turn on until around 235-238 degrees and then will turn off when the temp drops a good 40 degrees. The sensor on the driver's side cylinder head is what feeds the ECM so it knows when to activate the fan relay.
A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant and water will set the boiling point to around 260 degrees using a 15psi cap. Distilled water doesn't have the contaminants that tap water does. Make sure the lower hose is in good shape so it won't collapse.
You can also re-wire the fans and use a manual switch to turn them on. That could be a big help for hot days in between runs at either an autocross or drag race event.
The front fan won't turn on until around 235-238 degrees and then will turn off when the temp drops a good 40 degrees. The sensor on the driver's side cylinder head is what feeds the ECM so it knows when to activate the fan relay.
A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant and water will set the boiling point to around 260 degrees using a 15psi cap. Distilled water doesn't have the contaminants that tap water does. Make sure the lower hose is in good shape so it won't collapse.
You can also re-wire the fans and use a manual switch to turn them on. That could be a big help for hot days in between runs at either an autocross or drag race event.
Im trying to determine if stock will be good enough but I dont want to put any money into the stock system if a 4 core is the truely the answer. A clean stock system seems to be on the borderline
