Superram take 3...Help Needed
So this superram is kicking my ***. Installed two times so far, and i still have a vac leak. The first install's leak was terrible. This second install is much better, but still leaks on the passenger side runner to intake base seal.
When the runners are installed and torqued to 20-25 ft lbs, there is a .024 " gap on the inside portion of the passenger side runner when a straight edge is ran across the two runners. ( the part where the plenum bolts to). This gap is huge, you are talking about a credit card sliding under the straight edge.
My feeling is that when the plenum is bolted on, it is drawing the runner away from the base, and creating an air leak. (IF the runner is seated correctly to begin with.) Since you cannot get to the inside bolts with the plenum on, its not like you can tighten everything down slowly. THe runners have to go on tight, then the plenum. Unless I am missing something, and please let me know.
On the second install, i used the right stuff for sealer on new gaskets. The drivers side finally sealed up. The passenger side is still sucking air, making for a very irratic idle. All of the bolts were test fit to make sure they would not bottom out. Shortened a few, and got longer ones for some of the others.
I am at the point now where the intake and base are coming off, getting cleaned up, and taken to a machine shop. I am going to assemble everything dry, and have the shop make all of the sealing surfaces on the same plane. I am also going to have them dowel pin the runners to intake base. Part of me wants to buy a miniram. But I have the 219 cam installed and want to see this superram/219 combo. I have so much money and hours invested into this intake set-up I do not want to give up yet. This machine shop is the 3rd strike, and if it fails, its going to the scrap yard. It is getting sickening with the dollar amount and emotional distraught this intake has inflicted on me. Has anyone ever gone this far to make this work? While everything is apart, all bolt holes in the intake base are getting helicoils. I installed half of them already when I found out the bolt holes were stripped (after installing the intake of course), and I am not taking the chance with this anymore.
I am open to any and all suggestions on getting this to stop leaking. I have read about epoxy being used to build up areas, and using the right stuff in two different stages, etc...All of that works but if the plenum is pulling the runner away when tightened down, i am screwed.
I really feel pinning the runners will keep it all aligned, and fly cutting the top plenum seating surface to get rid of that .024" gap will make all of this sit better. I am beginning to wonder if this one of the incorrectly machined units that I have heard about.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by 383vett; Apr 3, 2011 at 01:36 PM.
When I first got my SR years ago, I found some high spots on the machined surfaces at both the runner/manifold and runner/plenum surfaces with a straightedge; massaged them both carefully and got them nice and true. I install all my SR gaskets dry and I have never had any vacuum leaks. You should be able to completely tighten the runners to the base and then move on to the plenum; I have no problem with that. I agree with the advice above, go back and carefully check for some machining inconsistencies and you will probably find the problem. Good Luck! 
When I first got my SR years ago, I found some high spots on the machined surfaces at both the runner/manifold and runner/plenum surfaces with a straightedge; massaged them both carefully and got them nice and true. I install all my SR gaskets dry and I have never had any vacuum leaks. You should be able to completely tighten the runners to the base and then move on to the plenum; I have no problem with that. I agree with the advice above, go back and carefully check for some machining inconsistencies and you will probably find the problem. Good Luck! You can tell which runner is for what side by looking at what
I think are the runners egr passages. The egr hole is oblong
shape/ up and down for the passenger side and the driverside
shape is oblong but tilted at an angle.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Once we discovered the problem we trimmed the bolts a bit to allow the runners to seat properly, and no more vacuum leak.
Hang in there with this system. You're going to be very happy with the performance once you get it installed and the kinks worked out. I'm running mine on a 383 with a 58 mm throttle body, a Comps cam, 32 lb injectors and a 255 lph Walbro fuel pump. I switched to a MAP sensor system and got rid of the MAF sensor. Another great thing to do, as you eliminate all the problems associated with the MAF sensor. If you want to switch just contact EFI and they can supply you with everything needed as well as information for your tuner to help in getting it all performing to the max.
After you get it running and the tps set properly, get a good tuner (if you don't do it yourself) and you will be amazed at the power it will produce.
Steve
I've read so many horror stories but it was not so bad, i suspect you
have a warped unit,don't give up yet,give it some more.
Make a list of every detail that might be getting in your way and tick it once discarded.
Im running the 219/SR/AFR195 Combo and i'm very happy with it, and ...im running it at 6°
i haven't dialed in it yet !!!
Im adding Drag Radials next week because street tires are a joke with this ...
So i bet there's more sweetness from this combo !
My car is a 91 so it has all of the MAP stuff...no MAF to deal with.
I am using allen bolts and the inner runner bolts have been drilled out and threaded into the runners with loctite and saftey wires.
As far as them being on the correct side, i think they are but i am not sure.
What would this cause if they are not on the correct side? It appears to be leaking where the egr tubes are....
Are both sides on the intake base where the runners bolt up to the same on both sides? Or are they on slightly different angles for whatever reason? The .024" is a ton and I am wondering if it is even fixable. I feel there is an issue where the runners meet the base and that is causing the plenum surface to be out of true by so far.
ANy other ideas welcome.
I am not giving up on this yet. I really do not want to pull the intake base though. I am trying to avoid it at all costs but I may end up having to pull it.
Thanks,
Mike
You may want to try the same or similar. Also, if you haven't already put a slot on the tips of the runner to plenum screws, do so. It will allow you to use a small flat blade from the inside of plenum, to pull up all the screws and then tighten with wrench.
Here's a few pics I added info to, for another member.


What would this cause if they are not on the correct side? It appears to be leaking where the egr tubes are....
Are both sides on the intake base where the runners bolt up to the same on both sides? Or are they on slightly different angles for whatever reason?
Check your gasket fit to EGR runner port.
When I install mine I first apply RTV to the manifold side of the runner gasket and then temporarily install the runner. I leave it set for 24 hours to cure the RTV. Then I remove the runner, apply RTV to the runner side of the gasket and permanently install the runner. I torque the bolts to 25 lbs.
I enlarged all the bolt holes on the top of the runners by 1/32 to allow a little play when trying to start all the bolts. I also installed studs for the inner middle bolts and I slotted all the runner to plenum bolts on the end to speed up installation. I use white lithium grease for the runner to plenum gaskets.
I want to try the 2 part install of the runners one time before i pull the intake and bring it all to the machine shop
Thanks.
Mike

























