C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Advice if this 383 engine suitable

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 02:10 AM
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Default Advice if this 383 engine suitable

MY ENGINE IN MY 89 IS IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT AND LOOKING AT THE FOLLOWING ENGINE (REBUILT)WHICH IS BEING OFFERED TO ME .
ANY ADVICE MUCH APPRECIATED,ALSO FEEDBACK ON PROCOMP STUFF.
NOT SURE IF IT IS OR HOW TO IDENTIFY A ROLLER BLOCK

ENGINE IS AS QUOTED;
383 STROKER 4 BOLT BLOCK WITH 3.75 STEEL STROKER CRANK AND MAIN STUDS.
RODS ARE FORGED I-BEAM,
PISTONS ARE 9.9-1 RINGS MOLY
CAM IS A CUSTOM GRIND FROM CAM DYNAMICS (WILL ASK FOR SPEC'S)
The LIFTER VALLEY HAS BEEN COATED FOR FASTER OIL RETURN?
PUSHRODS are COMP,
TIMING CHAIN DOUBLE ROLLER
FULL ROLLER ROCKERS (PROCOMP) 1.6 RATIO
CYLINDER HEADS ARE ALUMINUM 2.02 1.60 CNC HEADS( THESE ARE PROCOMP)AND COMP SPRINGS

Last edited by Qiken; Apr 10, 2011 at 02:13 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 02:45 AM
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I, personally, wouldn't buy a setup with ProComp heads/parts.

That said, I'm running Procomp plug wires but that was pretty low risk.

There's LOTs of negative feedback on ProComp. And, I mean LOTS.

BTW: Even the coating in the lifter valley could be a bad thing -- if it ever peeled off.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I, personally, wouldn't buy a setup with ProComp heads/parts.

That said, I'm running Procomp plug wires but that was pretty low risk.

There's LOTs of negative feedback on ProComp. And, I mean LOTS.

BTW: Even the coating in the lifter valley could be a bad thing -- if it ever peeled off.
I had the same feeling in relation to the coating in the lifter valley,never heard of this being done before,and the aprehension of using procomp
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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I used paint for electric motor windings to do my valley,etc, when I built my 355 for my 68 Camaro. That was the early 80's and might have been more common back then.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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That description doesn't really tell you specifically what you are getting, just some generalities, and as Gregg pointed out the ProComp stuff is questionable. I'd look around for a good local engine shop and have them rebuild yours. If you can't wait that long you can find better crate motors for your L98 replacement. You have more options than the LT1 crowd as far as replacement engines.

As far as the sealer on the valley... my engine builder prefers not to do this as well. Of course there could be a problem with paint or sealer chipping over time and additionally there is no significant advantage. If the oiling system is working well there should be no need to add any surface prep to the valley. Glyptal is used to coat the valley on some professional race engines but is really fading in use as far as I know. I don't think you will see it used on NASCAR engines either. So if they don't need it, I doubt we do either.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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Used glyptal many times never came off it really isnt necessary though, the oil will pool up in certain spots to a point then hit the return hole coated or not. Certainly not a negative to have it .
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Used glyptal many times never came off it really isnt necessary though, the oil will pool up in certain spots to a point then hit the return hole coated or not. Certainly not a negative to have it .
Absolutely not! It was actually the best indicator that the seller had some real interest in quality. But, the coating was not mentioned. The rest of the description screamed cheapola.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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See what a cost effective upgrade to maybe an edelbrock head or better rocker would be. If its a TPI you wont be spinning it to the moon and dont need exotic parts in it. Heck guys have been doing strokers with cast cranks and reworked 350 rods for decades.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
The rest of the description screamed cheapola.

PM me
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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yep...
I'd go find a good local builder and machine shop and manage your rebuild yourself.
You add the parts that you want, communicate with the machine shop,. have them balance whatever you do in the block and you'll come out ahead and save a pile of money.
More often the quality of the work negates the so called "performance" parts that were installed.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
I used paint for electric motor windings to do my valley,etc, when I built my 355 for my 68 Camaro. That was the early 80's and might have been more common back then.
That stuff was called Glyptal. I used it for my engine valleys years ago. Not sure it's available now. I think they found it to be cancerous (like everything else). Now I deburr and polish my lifter valley.
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