Harmonic Balancer
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Fairfax Virginia
Harmonic Balancer
I'm trying to replace the OptiSpark but I'm having an impossible time trying to get the harmonic balancer off. I have an impact wrench but it's to large to get between the balancer and the fans. I tried using a breaker bar but the balancer keeps moving. I don't want to wedge anything in there to stop the engine from turning over my luck something else would break.
Anyone near Norther VA want to help a bother out? :-) I've got beer or cash :-)
Anyone near Norther VA want to help a bother out? :-) I've got beer or cash :-)
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
Are you trying to remove the three balancer bolts, or the hub's bolt?
Remove the three balancer bolts, soak it with PB Blaster, then get under the car and knock/beat it forward with a 2x2 and a BFH. Rotate the crank after a couple of whacks, and be careful not to hit on the outside ring of the balancer.
Remove the three balancer bolts, soak it with PB Blaster, then get under the car and knock/beat it forward with a 2x2 and a BFH. Rotate the crank after a couple of whacks, and be careful not to hit on the outside ring of the balancer.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Indiana PA
You know the holes in the balancer for weights? Shove a punch in there and jam it against the front cross member in front of the balancer. Then when you turn the bolts to loosen, the engine does not turn.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Fairfax Virginia
Thanks guys, I've got the balancer to stop moving but I cannot break the 3 bolts free. I've juiced them up with a softner twice so far. I don't have enough space to fit the breaker bar or the impact wrench from underneath. I have an electric impactor so it's large I guess my only option is to buy a AIR system with a smaller impactor to get these things out.
Last edited by mediapirate; Apr 17, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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From: Fairfax Virginia
Thanks for the help guys, I've been able to prevent the wheel from spinning at this point by wedging a wide mouth pry bar into the tensioner. The head of this one is rubber coated so I don't think it will do any damage to the belt or tensioner wheel. I'm going to torch the 3 bolts tonight to see if that will help break them loose. I was under the impression that the balancer had to come off to remove the optispark but now I understand that only the crank pulley needs to be removed.
On a side note, since I'm pulling everything off the front I'm thinking about replacing the timing chain with a double roller (LT4). I have to buy a replacement timing cover with the water pump gear sealed (CSR electric pump install) so why not?
On a side note, since I'm pulling everything off the front I'm thinking about replacing the timing chain with a double roller (LT4). I have to buy a replacement timing cover with the water pump gear sealed (CSR electric pump install) so why not?
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Fairfax Virginia
Its a 95 I'm thinking to make things easier I'm going to pull the radiator and shroud so I have more room. Its never been cleaned before and after 140k I'm sure its ready. That will give me the space I need to pull the balancer and pulley.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: moraga ca
Thanks for the help guys, I've been able to prevent the wheel from spinning at this point by wedging a wide mouth pry bar into the tensioner. The head of this one is rubber coated so I don't think it will do any damage to the belt or tensioner wheel. I'm going to torch the 3 bolts tonight to see if that will help break them loose. I was under the impression that the balancer had to come off to remove the optispark but now I understand that only the crank pulley needs to be removed.
On a side note, since I'm pulling everything off the front I'm thinking about replacing the timing chain with a double roller (LT4). I have to buy a replacement timing cover with the water pump gear sealed (CSR electric pump install) so why not?
On a side note, since I'm pulling everything off the front I'm thinking about replacing the timing chain with a double roller (LT4). I have to buy a replacement timing cover with the water pump gear sealed (CSR electric pump install) so why not?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando FL
I'm trying to replace the OptiSpark but I'm having an impossible time trying to get the harmonic balancer off. I have an impact wrench but it's to large to get between the balancer and the fans. I tried using a breaker bar but the balancer keeps moving. I don't want to wedge anything in there to stop the engine from turning over my luck something else would break.
You don’t pull the hub (single bolt) to get the opti off. Only the balancer has to be removed. Also it has to back go on in the position it came off so make a mark (paint) on hub and balancer. I also believe the hub if removed has to go on in the same position also and I don’t think it has a key (need a puller).
Also pay attention to all the other posts above mine or you might make things worse.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Fairfax Virginia
I've been able to remove the balancer actually it pretty much fell loose when I freed the last bolt. I didn't mark the position though, I need to replace the balancer it was in pretty bad shape. Is this going to be a problem when I receive the new balancer? I can see the marking on the hub is currently at 12oc. I didn't know I had to mark the posisition of the old balancer when removing when I get the replacement what will I need to do to get it lined up correctly again?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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From: las vegas nevada
Race Director
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From: N. Alabama
If you take off the hub, you might go to the local bolt store and get a couple of grade 8 bolts in a couple of slightly different lengths longer to start into the threads to pull the hub back onto the shaft. I did and had no problems. As far as timing chain, consider the LT4 extreme chain. After almost 70K miles on my extreme chain, I checked it and found only 1/8" play on loose side. I decided to go for another 70K miles on it.
Oh yeah, in order to seal the oil pan and chain cover, go to the GM dealer and get the good stuff (grey color, in a quarter sized caulk gun cartridge - used in diesels, too). If you have any questions on procedure, PM me. I just did this a couple of months ago and have no leaks.
Oh yeah, in order to seal the oil pan and chain cover, go to the GM dealer and get the good stuff (grey color, in a quarter sized caulk gun cartridge - used in diesels, too). If you have any questions on procedure, PM me. I just did this a couple of months ago and have no leaks.
Last edited by SouthernSon; Apr 20, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Guthrie Oklahoma
I have a leaking front seal myself.. I took her to two shops, and both called me and said they could not do the job. Looks like I'm in the same boat as you here.. Wish me luck, this is my 1st corvette, and only had her a week or so. 
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Fairfax Virginia
On a side note, I took pictures of every part before I removed it. I'm the kind of guy who after working on something always has extra parts? This seems to help with that problem :-)
MP