Lower temp T-stat recommendations please
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 713
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From: Commerce Twsp Michigan
Lower temp T-stat recommendations please
I have a 1991 convertible in Michigan. When I am stuck in traffic on a hot summer day the engine runs hot. ( both fans are working) I have a 195 T-stat in it now. When is suggested to go with to bring down the temerature under those conditions? May be a 180 or 160?
This car is driven from April-October only.
This car is driven from April-October only.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 713
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From: Commerce Twsp Michigan
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: WI
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Until you have visually confirmed the radiator/condenser gap is clear, any and all changes to stats,switches or fans is not going to be effective.
Also, consider replacing the factory radiator with one from DeWitts or Reliable. You will be pleased with the results.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I've spent enough cash on cooling gimicks to buy a new ZR1....
90% was a waste.
the BEST and ONLY thing that actually helped was a new all aluminum double row HD radiator. Mine cost around $250 and came with everything. See Engineered Cooling Products. They have an E-Bay store.
A stat might open but if the heat is not effieiently exchanged, it makes no difference. If the fans come on sooner, that still does not increase heat exchange, just delays the cook-off a few minutes.
Get the radiator, 180 or 190 stat, 200* fans and you're golden.
You want the engine to run at least 185 to keep the oil from being saturated with moisture, and to get the most out of the tune. Its made to run hot. Running at 230 is unreasonable because there is almost zero margin for error when something breaks at that temp...185 to 210 is ideal and gives you some cushion in case of emergency.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 713
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From: Commerce Twsp Michigan
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
From: Commerce Twsp Michigan
I've spent enough cash on cooling gimicks to buy a new ZR1....
90% was a waste.
the BEST and ONLY thing that actually helped was a new all aluminum double row HD radiator. Mine cost around $250 and came with everything. See Engineered Cooling Products. They have an E-Bay store.
A stat might open but if the heat is not effieiently exchanged, it makes no difference. If the fans come on sooner, that still does not increase heat exchange, just delays the cook-off a few minutes.
Get the radiator, 180 or 190 stat, 200* fans and you're golden.
You want the engine to run at least 185 to keep the oil from being saturated with moisture, and to get the most out of the tune. Its made to run hot. Running at 230 is unreasonable because there is almost zero margin for error when something breaks at that temp...185 to 210 is ideal and gives you some cushion in case of emergency.
I am spending about $2000.00 under the hood and on the interior for this project. The radiator will have wait until the the cookie jar fills back up.
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
trust me, the $250 on this big radiator will be the best $250 you'll ever spend on the car. It solves a multitude of problems.
Good luck with the work.
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Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Commerce Twsp Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
I agree with the above, the best thing I did for my car was a larger Dewitts radiator, a high speed Dewitts fan, and have my tuner change my fan to come on at 200 degrees and go off at 184 degrees. My tuner also suggested with the fan coming on at 200 degrees that I should run a 180 degree thermostat.Im running a 383 stroker now and its staying way cooler then my stock 350 ever did......WW
...WW
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
If you cant afford a radiator pull the one you have now and hold it up with a strong light or daylight behind it. Youll be surprised how many teeny leaves and bits of debris gets packed in those fins.
High pressure water hose going from the backside forward will help blast that out followed by compressed air if you have it. Will make a huge difference. Last one I pulled "looked Ok" til I got some strong light behind it then...
High pressure water hose going from the backside forward will help blast that out followed by compressed air if you have it. Will make a huge difference. Last one I pulled "looked Ok" til I got some strong light behind it then...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Cooling
I've done just about every cooling mod possible except for the big mouth air dam. Each had a somewhat different effect on the temps. It runs extremely cool now down here in the south. Of course you always want to keep the cooling system clean and running effeceintly. Others may disagree but here is what I have found when it comes to mods..
-Hypertech 160 deg stat (starts to cool it down a little sooner in conjunction with other mods)
-Fans Reprogrammed (Also starts to cool it back down sooner)
-Dewitt Radiator (Dropped the temps down a few degrees at all times, big help)
-Mezerir HD Electric Water Pump (Drops temps while sitting still, nice to use with a fan overide switch in stagging lanes, huge difference when still or in traffic, rpms no longer dependent on engine rpm)
-Trans cooler (When bypassing Radiator, radiator temps are usually higher than coolant temps, my coolant temps dropped a few degrees with the trans fluid no longer in the radiator passage)
-Cowl Induction Hood (recently installed, not yet tested)
-Hypertech 160 deg stat (starts to cool it down a little sooner in conjunction with other mods)
-Fans Reprogrammed (Also starts to cool it back down sooner)
-Dewitt Radiator (Dropped the temps down a few degrees at all times, big help)
-Mezerir HD Electric Water Pump (Drops temps while sitting still, nice to use with a fan overide switch in stagging lanes, huge difference when still or in traffic, rpms no longer dependent on engine rpm)
-Trans cooler (When bypassing Radiator, radiator temps are usually higher than coolant temps, my coolant temps dropped a few degrees with the trans fluid no longer in the radiator passage)
-Cowl Induction Hood (recently installed, not yet tested)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Good info. I also added a manual switch on the secondary cooling fan.
This is the cheapest and most useful improvement I have made to this car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
Living in Michigan I wouldn't suggest going with anything below a 180 degree thermostat or you will probably have problems in the winter getting the car hot enough to evaporate moisture in the oil . It also may not get hot enough for the heater to work properly with a thermostat below 180...WW
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
From: Washington District of Columbia
You guys make swapping out radiators seem like a "piece of cake"! I had
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
You guys make swapping out radiators seem like a "piece of cake"! I had
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!:eek:
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!:eek:
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
That...
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
You guys make swapping out radiators seem like a "piece of cake"! I had
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
mine replaced a couple of months ago and it took about 4+ hrs. As I
watched this being done, it appeared the mechanic had to remove a lot of stuff just to get the shroud off to get to the radiator!
Also, what is the easiest way to get all the debris from between the
condenser and the rad? Thanks
That ^
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
The first time took me a while, certainly more than 4 hours. Then I did it again because I though the new rad had a leak (it didn't) and I had it out, inspected and reinstalled in about an hour. Experience is everything when you are dealing with a jigsaw puzzle.