Still Gets HOTTT WTF!!!
When changing coolant,As the required engine coolant level in the engine is higher than the actual filling point in the radiator,I use an old radiator cap I have welded a 6”filler tube onto, this when filled raises the filling height above the required coolant level in the engine.
Also when I install a new thermostat, I drill a 1/8” hole in it to aid in the bleeding of air from the system
Last edited by Qiken; May 12, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
I drive the car for 20-30 min and the temps go to OIL Temp 230, Coolant temp 227.... for real
. what am i doing wrong what do i need to do................
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Blow the air conditioner condenser fins out with compressed air when you have the radiator removed. Getting the dirt etc. out will allow more air to move through to the radiator.
Once it is opened, then the system cooling efficiency comprising of the radiator, pump, engine, fluid flow, air flow, etc including ambient temperature will set the upper operating temperature or point.
I usually run at 195. But when it is 100* + air with a hot road, I run a bit hotter due to the ambient air temperature. Perhaps about 10* hotter depending on traffic and speed.
My oil runs under 200 around town but 215 on expressway after a while.
Yup. Once the radiator is good and crudded flushing alone will not open up its nasal passages.I solved my LT1's overheating problem this way:
1) total flush, meaning removing knock sensors, surge tank, overflow tank, and running water through everything (including heater core) until all the Mississippi River mud in there was gone
2) new OEM radiator
3) new thermostat (190)
4) new coolant (of course)
5) new radiator (OK, surge tank) cap
6) several burps at the surge tank, running the engine at moderate rpms and filling the tank as the bubbles emerged.
After that it runs at a steady 185-188 on the highway and at moderate speeds. In traffic or stopped the temps still rise, so I put in two manual fan switches.
Now my baby will never see 215 again, much less the so-called "normal" highs of 227-235. It's a great relief not to have to fear traffic jams any more, watching that gauge creep up toward disaster.
OK, a little dramatic there.....
Once it is opened, then the system cooling efficiency comprising of the radiator, pump, engine, fluid flow, air flow, etc including ambient temperature will set the upper operating temperature or point.
I usually run at 195. But when it is 100* + air with a hot road, I run a bit hotter due to the ambient air temperature. Perhaps about 10* hotter depending on traffic and speed.
My oil runs under 200 around town but 215 on expressway after a while.
WOW... what did you do to get your cooling system to run at such cool temps even in traffic? aftermarket radiator???
I also have C5 that heats up just like my C4... i checked with GM and they say its "normal" SUREEEEE aluminum parts LOVE heat
I think GM built these cars like this so they run hot and prematurly wear out components and parts and therfore might need service more offten or at least prematurly (in GM's eyes people take their car to the Dealer when it needs service and not to the back yard). how hard is it to remove the radiator?
Last edited by 69SSC5; May 13, 2011 at 01:28 PM.




















