While the thermostat is closed, there is no flow of coolant in the radiator loop, and water flow is instead redirected back through the engine, allowing it to warm up rapidly while also avoiding hotspots within the engine. The thermostat stays closed until the coolant temperature reaches the nominal thermostat opening temperature. The thermostat then progressively opens as the coolant temperature increases to the optimum operating temperature, increasing the coolant flow to the radiator. Once the optimum operating temperature is reached, the thermostat progressively increases or decreases its opening in response to temperature changes, dynamically balancing the coolant recirculation flow and coolant flow to the radiator to maintain the engine temperature in the optimum range as engine heat output, vehicle speed, and outside ambient temperature change. Under normal operating conditions the thermostat is open to about half of its stroke travel, so that it can open further or reduce its opening to react to changes in operating conditions. A correctly designed thermostat will never be fully open or fully closed while the engine is operating normally, or overheating or overcooling would occu


This is a cut out from a book supplied from GM Ford and Dodge was given to my students to understand the functions of a stat. And this day if you look up the function of a automitive stat you will come up with this or something real close unless the do not know what they are talking about

 

****ing shoot me!

 

Understood.


HOOKED
Sometimes you just got to check out the theory and do a physical functional check. Drop a stat in a pan of hot water and try to regulate the stroke. Theoretically possible in a controlled static situation but probably impossible in a dynamic situation like an engine where heat is produced passed the open point.

If a stat could control the temperature, you would need a much more of a dynamic control device with servo feedback with some additional software smarts.

 

I have done in it seveal labs to instruct including clear housing. hoses. rad tankins and running engines aglog with inferred temp sensors mounted to several places during my teaching time. Kinda works just like they said it would in the 40 has never changed. Have you done this? in a real engine running invirement??

 

Hooked, I must apologize. I am fully aware of the arguments on both sides of this issue and the controversy. I could not help myself. I myself have graduated from the C4 school of "overheatment", having to solve my issues on my own a long time ago. I finally got the fix by pressure washing the fins on mine, after endless thermostat changes, etc. I believe the stock thermostat is 195 degrees, My vehicle only runs near the thermo opening temp when it is very cold outside. I think the engineered operating temp is around 220 degrees. I do believe this to be too hot for both performance and longevity, so I have lowered the fan temps, keep everything tidy, run water wetter and pack the radiator. A larger radiator would be a big help on these cars. I think the OP's problem is beyond the thermostats control, unless it is malfunctioning. Also, I do not use a failsafe stat, as it will get stuck all the way open when "packing" the radiator.(I had to cut the clips off of mine). One other thing to check for is the condition of the spoiler underneath the front end. This directs the air, dirt and roadkill to the radiator. Once again "sorry" and have a good one!

 

correct if other parts of the "system" are not working right then like anything thing else it is going to cause other thing to be off. If your Rad is cloged I dont care what stat you have you are still going to over heat. If you loose air flow same effect. It is all a system and other things must be working for it to function like it should

 

Both arguments are two sides of the same coin. One is just more practical when looking at it from a troubleshooting point of view IMO.

 

Opps, I'm outta here

 

Tom was going to handout free radiators and we skeered him off

 

Lol

 

You guys have got some hot running c4s, mine never gets over 200.

 

Damn!! That must be nice.

 

I had the exact same issue with my 84.

I just replaced the radiator with a all aluminum, aluminum core 2 row radiator. Temps went from 230 down to 190.
Stop and go they will go up but come right down again. My fan does not even come on anymore. Before it reaches temp I am moving again. Thats how good its working

I use to not drive it on real hot days, but now its no issue.
My oil was 240 to 245, coolant was 220 to 235.
Now my oil is 220 max and my coolant runs 190.

Radiator has been in my car for 27 years. It was time.
I chased all the same things you did before I changed mine.
This will help for sure

Kevin