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Ford 9 inch

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Old May 13, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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Default Ford 9 inch

I was at Carlisle, Pa.for the Spring Swap Meet and bought a Ford 9" Housing and Molly Tubes welded in that measure to 57" A D44 measures 63.5" I also bought housing ends but they are not welded in yet. Where do I go from here? Measure for a four link a Torque arm a panhard bar? Bought a Alum. center section with 4:11s with a Detroit Locker. I guess I should crawl under there and start measuring.I should be able to get the other 6.5" once the housing ends are welded on and the axles are in. Then maybe my 15x 10 Wheels will fit since stupid me didn't check the back spacing. Pipe
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Old May 13, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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With no direspect intended to vendors that may be advertising here.

During pre Vette days I have used Moser for custom housings & axles.

http://www.moserengineering.com/

Luck with your project.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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Pipe are you going to do a solid rear, or trying to build a center section, and adapt it to the haft shafts? I have a 9" rear. I had it in my vette and pulled it back out, when I broke the stock posi unit (spider gears)
Randy
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Old May 16, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Randy i'm going to swap in a whole solid axle I hope. What's that old saying measure twice cut once. That your car in your Avatar? COOL Churchkey neat dirt Late Model Pipe
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Old May 16, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pipe
Randy i'm going to swap in a whole solid axle I hope. What's that old saying measure twice cut once. That your car in your Avatar? COOL Churchkey neat dirt Late Model Pipe
My dad used to DRILL that saying into my head I'll be interested to see this project. Kinda cool that your buying the parts and pieces and not a kit. You gonna do all the welding and fab work yourself?
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Old May 17, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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Nope I have a friend who custom builds Headers and does chassis work he's going to do all the welding. I bought the housing and tubes from Spraker Racing. He cut me a good deal at the show. I need to get in touch with Autofab race cars in Maryland that guy has all the measurements for the 4 link bars and I can buy them right from him allready made up with 4130 rod ends and .095 tubing strong enough to work plus the mounts and brackets. I went to talk to another friend who does nothing but build race cars and asked him to explain to me about instant center so I could understand it. What a mistake he was having a bad day and when he started yelling and told me I didn't know what I was doing I left. I guess next swap meet i'll have to look for a book about it and read it a few times till it sinks in. I'm TRYIN Pipe
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Old May 17, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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I also bought a nice Alum. center section with a Detroit Locker and 4:11 pro gears I better cool it for awhile the funds are gettin real low. Pipe
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Old May 17, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Pipe, you may want to reconsider running the softer 9310 alloy pro gears if your car is going to be street driven at all. The heat from street miles will be the death of them. On second thought, are you sure they are pro gears? I would be surprised that someone would install pro gears on anything other than a spool. Street gears are made of harder 8620 and can take the heat of street driving.

Cool project BTW.

I went to Autofabs site and saw the C3 setup but nothing in the way of C4. Is this something they have worked out but just not put on their site?

P.S. Randy, do you happen to have pics of your solid rear setup when you were running it?
Thanks.

Last edited by chad89; May 17, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
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Old May 18, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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Chad89, my avatar is when the 9" rear was is the car, I'm thinking about put the rear back in the vette, because the IRS rear is making noise now. I have a stock open third member I stick in the housing. My funds is loe for now and that is the least expensive way for now.
Randy
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Old May 18, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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I have to check with the guy who sold me the center section to make sure about the gears. I do want to drive it on the street once in a great while but mostly on the strip. Maple Grove Raceway is 5 min. from my house. The guy from Spraker told me to give Autofab a call about the measurements I hope he has em. If not then maybe someone can chime in here with em. I also live pretty close to S&W Race Cars in Spring City, Pa. they have lots of Chassis stuff as they are a pretty big co. Aren't the top bars 11" and the bottoms 14" I should have thought about all this before I spent my money. Pipe
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Old May 19, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Pipe, If you're talking about the length of trailing arm (bars), it will depend of what type mounting brackets you use on the chassic and rear. And I would make them adjustable with heim joints.
Randy
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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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I need to make a mounting bracket that bolts to where the stock wishbones were mounted. I would like to use the standard style brackets that slide on the housing tubes. I have the 3/4" heim ends left and right ones with the jam nuts and also the tube inserts. I need to buy the tubing and some 3/16" plate to make the front brackets. But i'm not sure about what to use for a locator. A wishbone coming off the back a panhard bar or a torque arm like Willie (383 vette) Also I haven't even thought about a trans mount yet. I'm in a little deep here. THANKS FOR THE REPLY'S Pipe
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Old May 20, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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To center the rear - A panhard bar comming off of one of the batwing mounts would be the easiest.
Will
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Old May 26, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Good idea about the Panhard Bar. I would like to make this so in case I sell the car the solid axle can be un bolted and the stock IRS be put back in. Ya don't like the idea of a Wishbone coming off the back? Pipe
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Old May 26, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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Pipe, I used a wishbone locator on my setup, and I unbolted it and place the IRS back in, when i destroyed the posi in the 9". I made a crossbar that went across the back of the hatch area, that supported the coilover shocks and wishbone. The only drawback was that I cut had to cut out a 5" strip of the hatch floor and notch out a small piece of the cargo compartment (which is need if you want the vette to sit at stock ride height). I wanted to keep the spare tire in the back of the car. I cut one solid peice of the hatch floor which I save and placed it back when I swap the IRS back,
Randy

Last edited by rlane5; May 26, 2011 at 10:43 PM. Reason: and a sentence
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Old May 27, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rlane5
Pipe, I used a wishbone locator on my setup, and I unbolted it and place the IRS back in, when i destroyed the posi in the 9". I made a crossbar that went across the back of the hatch area, that supported the coilover shocks and wishbone. The only drawback was that I cut had to cut out a 5" strip of the hatch floor and notch out a small piece of the cargo compartment (which is need if you want the vette to sit at stock ride height). I wanted to keep the spare tire in the back of the car. I cut one solid peice of the hatch floor which I save and placed it back when I swap the IRS back,
Randy
Hello,

Any photos?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old May 27, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by STEVEN13
Hello,

Any photos?

Thanks,
Steve
I second this.

solid axle conversion is highly relevant to my current interests.
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Old May 27, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pipe
Good idea about the Panhard Bar. I would like to make this so in case I sell the car the solid axle can be un bolted and the stock IRS be put back in. Ya don't like the idea of a Wishbone coming off the back? Pipe
Hey Pipe, here's a crummy picture of my panhard bar. It connects to the batwing mount on the passenger side. The larger bar is the antisway bar. Willie

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Old May 27, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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Thanks for all the input guy's Willie your panhard bar runs from the mount you made to the stock location where the stock batwing bolts to? Also you only use lower link bars cause you also run the torque arm? What size Weld Pro Stars do you run 8" or 10" and how much back spacing? THANKS FOR THE PIC Pipe
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Old May 27, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Willie I looked back at your pic does your shocks mount in the stock location up top? Pipe
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