LT4 swapped with LS9
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Will, do you have any clips of your car i would like to hear it. What I understand is that I should shoot for the 400rwhp range for a daily driver out of the LT. Which websites sell the parts I need are should I just let the shop pick them out for me.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Until then here is a video on youtube of me playing around at a 1/4mile track.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0qDV...ature=youtu.be
***EDIT*** Here is a close up idle and rev clip of my 92.
400-450RWHP is pretty common for LTX's. In good air that will put around 115-120 mph in the 1/4. With good traction you'll run well down into the 11's.
I built a very mild 383 LT4 for a member here. He ended up with 421RWHP. The car runs good, gets good mileage and the power delivery is easy to manage/drive. He and I did a nice write up for the forum a few years ago. All the part numbers, engine specs and plenty of pics and video is in this thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-pictures.html
He's got over 25K miles on the motor since then and it's as good today as it was the day I built it. Total cost to duplicate this engine today would be probally in the 8-10K range.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; May 25, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Camshaft is no problem. Talk to my cam grinder Mike Jones.
www.jonescams.com
**EDIT**
Plenty of video here of me destroying Shelby GT500's, Steeda Mustangs, Backhalf race cars, F bodies and the occasional Civic.... All with very little driving effort on my part.
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...cpZZ1QQtppZZ16
It's not about how much HP you put down on a chassis dyno. That Red Shelby GT500 puts down 615RWHP and he was on drag radials (same as me)... I didn't even launch hard and drove by him in 2nd gear like he tied to a pole... It's about building an engine combination that works and has a useable powerband that your car can take advantage of.
Will
www.jonescams.com
**EDIT**
Plenty of video here of me destroying Shelby GT500's, Steeda Mustangs, Backhalf race cars, F bodies and the occasional Civic.... All with very little driving effort on my part.
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...cpZZ1QQtppZZ16
It's not about how much HP you put down on a chassis dyno. That Red Shelby GT500 puts down 615RWHP and he was on drag radials (same as me)... I didn't even launch hard and drove by him in 2nd gear like he tied to a pole... It's about building an engine combination that works and has a useable powerband that your car can take advantage of.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; May 25, 2011 at 05:46 PM. Reason: add video links.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh Pa
Problem with the LTX series of engine is small bore stock block, lack of good cyl heads and limited RPM (7000 because of the computer) to make that kind of power. An L98 car would be much easier with the availiable aftermarket big bore blocks and roll deck heads. Any moron could make 600RWHP easily with a 12* or 15* 421 or 434.
No so easy with an LTX. Limited to right around 400 inches and 4.06 bore.... 23* cyl heads that don't flow that great to begin with are now pinched off even more....
I can make 500RWHP pretty easy with 383 LTX (or bigger), using off the shelf 23* heads and a mech roller. You'll have to adjust valves every 6months or so depending on how much you drive it and you'll have to remove the Altenator to get that drivers side rocker cover off....
I can build pretty much the same LTX engine with a big aggressive hyd roller cam - just barley short of the 500RWHP mark (similar to the engine I built for my 92).
Both of these are 10-15K motors.
None of these engines are something your going to want to drive everyday.... I mean I drive my 92 on the street alot, the AC, cruise, ASR and power everything still works.... but it eats gas, is so fast at the track had to install a roll bar (and now it's not enough roll bar), I have to then wear a helmet & fire suit and it is really fricken loud. It also destroys rear ends pretty easily which gets to be a real expensive problem after the first couple of times.
If your willing to have a car you can't make more than one pass at the track without getting sent home or willing live with a pesudo race car on the street I'll be happy to key you in on what I have.... I personally wouldn't want to add another 100RWHP to it.
Will
No so easy with an LTX. Limited to right around 400 inches and 4.06 bore.... 23* cyl heads that don't flow that great to begin with are now pinched off even more....
I can make 500RWHP pretty easy with 383 LTX (or bigger), using off the shelf 23* heads and a mech roller. You'll have to adjust valves every 6months or so depending on how much you drive it and you'll have to remove the Altenator to get that drivers side rocker cover off....
I can build pretty much the same LTX engine with a big aggressive hyd roller cam - just barley short of the 500RWHP mark (similar to the engine I built for my 92).
Both of these are 10-15K motors.
None of these engines are something your going to want to drive everyday.... I mean I drive my 92 on the street alot, the AC, cruise, ASR and power everything still works.... but it eats gas, is so fast at the track had to install a roll bar (and now it's not enough roll bar), I have to then wear a helmet & fire suit and it is really fricken loud. It also destroys rear ends pretty easily which gets to be a real expensive problem after the first couple of times.
If your willing to have a car you can't make more than one pass at the track without getting sent home or willing live with a pesudo race car on the street I'll be happy to key you in on what I have.... I personally wouldn't want to add another 100RWHP to it.
Will
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...10315-1635.mp4
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...10323-1419.mp4
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i wish i could hear it in person the microphone im sure doesnt do it justice. if i go 383 with low compression pistons and a supercharger on the lt do think ill be in 600rwhp range? Am I going to start breaking parts at this hp?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
A 355 is a much better forced induction engine because of the taller piston compression height.
Yes you'll break parts, like ujoints, stub axels, half shafts and rear ends if you really hook it up and abuse it on the launch. Take a look in my photobucket there are some pics of the last time I exploded halfshafts and ujoints.
Will
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2009
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ouch..does anyone make reinforced ujoints, stub axles, half shafts and rear ends? anyway to make them handle the horsepower? also how much would a 355 setup cost and what would be the horsepower before the supercharger?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,668
Likes: 749
From: NEwhere Ohio
Problem with the LTX series of engine is small bore stock block, lack of good cyl heads and limited RPM (7000 because of the computer) to make that kind of power. An L98 car would be much easier with the availiable aftermarket big bore blocks and roll deck heads. Any moron could make 600RWHP easily with a 12* or 15* 421 or 434.
No so easy with an LTX. Limited to right around 400 inches and 4.06 bore.... 23* cyl heads that don't flow that great to begin with are now pinched off even more....
I can make 500RWHP pretty easy with 383 LTX (or bigger), using off the shelf 23* heads and a mech roller. You'll have to adjust valves every 6months or so depending on how much you drive it and you'll have to remove the Altenator to get that drivers side rocker cover off....
I can build pretty much the same LTX engine with a big aggressive hyd roller cam - just barley short of the 500RWHP mark (similar to the engine I built for my 92).
Both of these are 10-15K motors.
None of these engines are something your going to want to drive everyday.... I mean I drive my 92 on the street alot, the AC, cruise, ASR and power everything still works.... but it eats gas, is so fast at the track had to install a roll bar (and now it's not enough roll bar), I have to then wear a helmet & fire suit and it is really fricken loud. It also destroys rear ends pretty easily which gets to be a real expensive problem after the first couple of times.
If your willing to have a car you can't make more than one pass at the track without getting sent home or willing live with a pesudo race car on the street I'll be happy to key you in on what I have.... I personally wouldn't want to add another 100RWHP to it.
Will
No so easy with an LTX. Limited to right around 400 inches and 4.06 bore.... 23* cyl heads that don't flow that great to begin with are now pinched off even more....
I can make 500RWHP pretty easy with 383 LTX (or bigger), using off the shelf 23* heads and a mech roller. You'll have to adjust valves every 6months or so depending on how much you drive it and you'll have to remove the Altenator to get that drivers side rocker cover off....
I can build pretty much the same LTX engine with a big aggressive hyd roller cam - just barley short of the 500RWHP mark (similar to the engine I built for my 92).
Both of these are 10-15K motors.
None of these engines are something your going to want to drive everyday.... I mean I drive my 92 on the street alot, the AC, cruise, ASR and power everything still works.... but it eats gas, is so fast at the track had to install a roll bar (and now it's not enough roll bar), I have to then wear a helmet & fire suit and it is really fricken loud. It also destroys rear ends pretty easily which gets to be a real expensive problem after the first couple of times.
If your willing to have a car you can't make more than one pass at the track without getting sent home or willing live with a pesudo race car on the street I'll be happy to key you in on what I have.... I personally wouldn't want to add another 100RWHP to it.
Will
Ltx is a great engine for forced induction. Steel block, extra bolt around each cylinder in the head (vs. Lsx), reverse cooled.
As for the ecu: 7000 rpm is pretty high, an aftermarket ecu (though expensive) is a good investment (map not limited to 1 bar, etc.)
So there's a lot of difft ways you can look at it.
I will agree w. Will though that a n/a ltx based motor wont cut it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,668
Likes: 749
From: NEwhere Ohio
Greg at blowerworks makes the unique corvette ltx procharger dedicated drive brackets so you can run 2 belts (one for sc, the other for acc) to ensure you wont get belt slip.
The off the shelf vortech (discontinued) and procharger ltx corvette kit hardware has known belt slip issues.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
I know for a fact my 92 will spin a regular 315 radial from a 50mph roll to past 80mph.
With supercharged 600RWHP on tap you wouldn't have enough traction to destroy anything but tires and the revlimiter.
Couple of people here have Gregs kit and it's a nice peice. Check in the C4 forced induction section. Don't even wast your $$$ with that little PS1C Procharger is a bolton toy blower kit for stock motors and you won't ever make any real power with it.
For that kind of power your going to need good forged stuff in the bottom end. 4340 crank, 4340 rods and 2618 alloy pistons. 8.5 to 9.0 SCR and some really good flowing good cyl heads with pretty big port volume. I agree the AFR 210 would be a good choice for a 355 LTX with a bigger blower head unit like the D1. Your going to spend 5-10K on a motor like this but you'll have a first class peice that will stand up to some real power for a long time if you do it right.
Will
With supercharged 600RWHP on tap you wouldn't have enough traction to destroy anything but tires and the revlimiter.
Couple of people here have Gregs kit and it's a nice peice. Check in the C4 forced induction section. Don't even wast your $$$ with that little PS1C Procharger is a bolton toy blower kit for stock motors and you won't ever make any real power with it.
For that kind of power your going to need good forged stuff in the bottom end. 4340 crank, 4340 rods and 2618 alloy pistons. 8.5 to 9.0 SCR and some really good flowing good cyl heads with pretty big port volume. I agree the AFR 210 would be a good choice for a 355 LTX with a bigger blower head unit like the D1. Your going to spend 5-10K on a motor like this but you'll have a first class peice that will stand up to some real power for a long time if you do it right.
Will
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Why bother with all that power if youre just running a street tire, it will never hook up anyway.
At some point a sticky tire becomes a safety issue rather than a cool factor thing. Why not just do something with 400-450 rwhp NA will be much more affordable and be a handful on the street.
At some point a sticky tire becomes a safety issue rather than a cool factor thing. Why not just do something with 400-450 rwhp NA will be much more affordable and be a handful on the street.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
You will have a problem going with a LS9 for $20K. I had a LS3 hot cam put in mine. The GMPP crate engine and kit were around $9K and by the time we were done I had over $16K in parts alone. Total build cost was over $22K and that was with a huge break on the labor costs. End result, 480rwhp. If I recall correctly, the costs of a new GMPP LS9 was around $27K.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
IMHO, an LSx whatever is going to ruin the look and sound of a C4 Grand Sport. Purchase a set of AFR LTx 195 Comp heads, a matching cam and valvetrain, headers, 4.10 gears and be done with it.
If you want an LS engine, use your $20k to buy a higher mileage C5 Z06.
If you want an LS engine, use your $20k to buy a higher mileage C5 Z06.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Bradford Pa
My first impulse is: "If you wanna lay down some BIG numbers then get yourself a BIG BLOCK"
My 2nd impulse is: "Go BIG or go HOME"
After doing options 1 & 2 i'd just rather build a mild 350 combo and boost the **** out of it. Way easier, far less hassle, less time, likely more reliable. 500whp easily. When you're running boost head flow isn't as important as some will lead you to believe but it sure does help.
Yank your motor, install a fully forged & balanced rotating assembly, install a midrange set of heads and a mild cam, and toss any number of available centrifugal charger kits or turbo kits on the car. goals accomplished.
My 2nd impulse is: "Go BIG or go HOME"
After doing options 1 & 2 i'd just rather build a mild 350 combo and boost the **** out of it. Way easier, far less hassle, less time, likely more reliable. 500whp easily. When you're running boost head flow isn't as important as some will lead you to believe but it sure does help.
Yank your motor, install a fully forged & balanced rotating assembly, install a midrange set of heads and a mild cam, and toss any number of available centrifugal charger kits or turbo kits on the car. goals accomplished.