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Well, seems that my AC clutch although getting no less than 12 volts is not engaging. I'm assuming this to mean that the clutch coil is toast. Gonna do the ohm meter test before tearing into it. The compressor is a Denso unit. Bought a clutch coil at AZ {on order}for less than 40.00 Anybody ever change one out. Any advice will be appreciated. thanks a bunch. jimmijim
Well, seems that my AC clutch although getting no less than 12 volts is not engaging. I'm assuming this to mean that the clutch coil is toast. The compressor is a Denso unit. Bought a clutch coil at AZ {on order}for less than 40.00 Anybody ever change one out. Any advice will be appreciated. thanks a bunch. jimmijim
It is pretty straight forward to change out you don't really need any fancy pullers - don't loose the tiny washers behind the clutch face. It would be very awesome if the coil you ordered works - post up the part number if it does.
AZ said it is for the Denso unit. Hope it works. Car has a full charge{almost} of R 12. Don't really want to go with a remanufactured unit as I have a low mile car + I have to count my beans and I know I'm on my last can. Will keep ya posted. jimmijim
It's not a vette, but I had to replace the compressor clutch on our 2002 F350 Diesel. Ordered it from Napa, took us alot longer to press it back on the compressor than it did to remove it (gear pullers helped ALOT)
but it worked like a champ.
saved us from replacing the whole compressor.
I tried finding a clutch but to no avail but one was available from the dealer for 425.00. A remanned whole AC compressort is cheaper than that and I'm cheap so I'm hoping this coil is it. jimmijim
Originally Posted by MonteHall
It's not a vette, but I had to replace the compressor clutch on our 2002 F350 Diesel. Ordered it from Napa, took us alot longer to press it back on the compressor than it did to remove it (gear pullers helped ALOT)
but it worked like a champ.
saved us from replacing the whole compressor.
I recently had to replace the clutch on my 88 because the clutch bearing failed. I checked on replacing the bearing but found out that there are two different compressors used and one has a smaller clutch bearing. The one that is shown in NAPA catalogs, etc. was a larger bearing than mine. After looking on-line, I ended up going to a A/C specialty shop which did some checking and found that, supposedly, there were only two of my clutch size anywhere in the country so I ended getting one for about $120. Went on without any major issues and prevented me from having to take off the compressor and losing my Freon. I did run down a place to get just the bearing for about $30 but don't have that info in front of me.
I tried finding a clutch but to no avail but one was available from the dealer for 425.00. A remanned whole AC compressort is cheaper than that and I'm cheap so I'm hoping this coil is it. jimmijim
I did some time in a local parts house, never ceased to be amazed that a clutch was more than a complete compressor. Was common across all makes and models.
'88 and up uses a Nippodenso 10PA20C. The LT motors reverse the Manifold but it's the same compressor. Make sure you don't have compressor oil on the hood above the compressor which would indicate a leaking shaft seal (a lot more common than a coil or clutch failure). Replacing the Clutch Assembly on the LT motors is a bit of a challenge because the hoses are in the way. The L98's are straightforward. An OEM new compressor is about $800 or so. I don't know of any different bearings for the Pulley. NAPA has stocking #'s for the Pulley, Bearing and Coil, though it's the Factoryaire brand which doesn't have the best reputation. Replacing a clutch is simply a matter of grasping the outer hub with a strap wrench or oil filter wrench pliers and then removing the 10 mm nut. Gently pry off the outer hub or faceplate. Pulley and Coil are held on by snap rings. You need to make sure that those snap rings are fully seated when you reinstall or it will fall apart and ruin it. Shim (you'll need to order the kit separately) the outer hub until there is .020 inch clearance between it and the pulley. Too much of a gap and it will engage - if engages at all - with a bang. Too little and it will slip when disengaged and make a hell of stink. Torque the retaining nut to 10 ft/lbs only or you will crush the shims and ruin the shaft seal. These Nippo Assemblys are not a press-on affair which is common on some of GM Harrison Units. Those tend to work their way apart and once the gap is too wide, you've got to press it back together to get them to work.
I've mislocated my manual and at least you pretty much tell it like I can probably do it.You are a mechanic of some degree aren't ya? thanks Chit, I wish I had a parts/assembly diagram.
Originally Posted by SunCr
'88 and up uses a Nippodenso 10PA20C. The LT motors reverse the Manifold but it's the same compressor. Make sure you don't have compressor oil on the hood above the compressor which would indicate a leaking shaft seal (a lot more common than a coil or clutch failure). Replacing the Clutch Assembly on the LT motors is a bit of a challenge because the hoses are in the way. The L98's are straightforward. An OEM new compressor is about $800 or so. I don't know of any different bearings for the Pulley. NAPA has stocking #'s for the Pulley, Bearing and Coil, though it's the Factoryaire brand which doesn't have the best reputation. Replacing a clutch is simply a matter of grasping the outer hub with a strap wrench or oil filter wrench pliers and then removing the 10 mm nut. Gently pry off the outer hub or faceplate. Pulley and Coil are held on by snap rings. You need to make sure that those snap rings are fully seated when you reinstall or it will fall apart and ruin it. Shim (you'll need to order the kit separately) the outer hub until there is .020 inch clearance between it and the pulley. Too much of a gap and it will engage - if engages at all - with a bang. Too little and it will slip when disengaged and make a hell of stink. Torque the retaining nut to 10 ft/lbs only or you will crush the shims and ruin the shaft seal. These Nippo Assemblys are not a press-on affair which is common on some of GM Harrison Units. Those tend to work their way apart and once the gap is too wide, you've got to press it back together to get them to work.
'86 is a Harrison R4 which is a different animal. Use this link instead - it's a different model Nippo but the procedure is the same (though you're only doing the clutch): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm
I hope this works for me. I love it when a plan comes together. I'll be here tilll they bury me in that car. Never wanted a Corvette but bought it as the wifey would have just blown the money on something stupid. I really like this car and the gas mileage is unbelievably great for a car that's got a bit of arss. 26.2 mpg. highway if I'm a light footin' it. My other car is a 1963 Studebaker GT Hawk. Not a rag-mobile. Guys here offering tech tips to fellow enthusiasts is the only way that I can afford to drive and maintain a car that would otherwise be out of my league financially. There's some smart fellas here. Thanks for the help. I ain't Lion jimmijim
Originally Posted by SunCr
'86 is a Harrison R4 which is a different animal. Use this link instead - it's a different model Nippo but the procedure is the same (though you're only doing the clutch): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm