C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Low battery voltage

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Old 06-07-2011, 09:50 PM
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Tony A.
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Default Low battery voltage

My battery (dash #'s) registers 10.8 to 11.2 when I turn on the key, 12.8-13.2 once started. If I drive around awhile, sometimes, the voltage drops into the mid 12's. I also get occasional dash light flickering. Starting the car sometimes takes up to 3 tries before she catches and fires all the way.

Is this the alternator or just a battery issue? Battery is old and this car has been in storage for awhile. A new battery is prob on the list anyways but how do know the tell-tale signs of an alternator slowly going?
Old 06-07-2011, 09:53 PM
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tehcarguy
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The voltage should normally be around 13.7 when driving. It's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace the battery.
Old 06-07-2011, 09:56 PM
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BADDUCK
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Have both the battery and alternator tested O'Rielly's did mine for free took about 2 minutes.
Old 06-07-2011, 10:37 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Have both the battery and alternator tested O'Rielly's did mine for free took about 2 minutes.
Do I have to remove them both to get them checked or pull up and pop the hood?
Old 06-07-2011, 10:58 PM
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cuengineer
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Advance Auto and others can check them both out in the car to some extent. However, IMO the tests seem to be more reliable when they are each on the bench separately.

Sounds to me like it may be at least somewhat an alternator issue since it should be charging at the 13+ volts when driving at speed, i.e., at a reasonable rpm above 1000 or so, and the car will run off the alternator voltage until you stop and idle. At night, you might also notice the lights dim significantly at idle because of the low battery voltage, i.e., when the alternator is not charging much.

My philosophy has always been to not take a chance when the battery seems to be going -- it probably is and can make other items look like they are bad. Of course, it can also be a wiring issue. I once had a bad gage fuse (pink with black wire) which will also keep the alternator from properly charging.

Good luck getting to the root of the problem!
Old 06-08-2011, 09:07 AM
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bac22
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You can do a load test on the battery when it's fully charged. Hold the leads of the volt meter to the corresponding battery terminals and watch the volt meter while someone else starts your car. Make a note of how low the battery voltage drops. A normal car battery will drop to 10 or 11 volts. If your battery voltage drops below 10, this is a sign that it needs to be replaced.
Old 06-08-2011, 09:41 AM
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pcolt94
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Originally Posted by tehcarguy
The voltage should normally be around 13.7 when driving. It's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace the battery.

In Florida where is HOT a old battery is 3 years old. If I get past that with any of my cars I feeling lucky but ready for a battery. If you alternator is not charging the battery properly, then your cranking problem may be related to that especially if the battery is old and does not have the full power and snap of a new battery.

But your flickering lights and low charging voltage symptom is probably the voltage regulator (not battery) in the alternator going bad. Test the charging voltage with a external DVM and make a determination with that.

If it looks like the charging is low, either get the alternator rebuilt or get one with a lifetime exchange.
Old 06-08-2011, 09:58 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by pcolt94

In Florida where is HOT a old battery is 3 years old. If I get past that with any of my cars I feeling lucky but ready for a battery. If you alternator is not charging the battery properly, then your cranking problem may be related to that especially if the battery is old and does not have the full power and snap of a new battery.

But your flickering lights and low charging voltage symptom is probably the voltage regulator (not battery) in the alternator going bad. Test the charging voltage with a external DVM and make a determination with that.

If it looks like the charging is low, either get the alternator rebuilt or get one with a lifetime exchange.
Replaced the battery with an Autocraft Gold from AdvancedAutoParts. Used my $50 off over $100 coupon so got it for $55.

What a serious royal PITA to replace the battery. I had to remove the gill panel, loosen the lower rocker panel, and undo the engine shield just to get it out because some genius GM design engineer decided to put it under the Cruise control unit.

It does start right up now! Thanks everyone for the advice!
Old 06-08-2011, 10:18 PM
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pcolt94
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Originally Posted by Tony A.
What a serious royal PITA to replace the battery. I had to remove the gill panel, loosen the lower rocker panel, and undo the engine shield just to get it out because some genius GM design engineer decided to put it under the Cruise control unit.
I have seen worse. Once saw a battery changed at a parts store where the car had to be jacked up and the front right wheel removed.

My MGB 2-6 volt batteries were inside the car under the rug and plate.

Once you get in your mind how the vette battery comes out, it won't seem a pain in the future.

How is your charging voltage now and are the lights still flickering?
Old 06-08-2011, 10:59 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
I have seen worse. Once saw a battery changed at a parts store where the car had to be jacked up and the front right wheel removed.

My MGB 2-6 volt batteries were inside the car under the rug and plate.

Once you get in your mind how the vette battery comes out, it won't seem a pain in the future.

How is your charging voltage now and are the lights still flickering?
Starts right up and initial voltage once started hits at 13.2 and rises to 13.6. Drops to 13.2 with AC and radio on.

The battery I got is a 700 CCA, much improved over the 525 Everlast (Walmart) I had in there that tested 390 CCA today at Advanced when tested under load with their machine. They could not test the alternator as their machine was broke. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow. I still think the alternator may need replaced but the current battery certainly needed to go.
Old 06-09-2011, 08:55 AM
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Your alternator is weak.
Old 06-09-2011, 09:37 AM
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pcolt94
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Your alternator is weak.
I would tend to agree. You're in that suspicious area where it is not a flat 12 volts but should be about 14.5-14.7 in the morning when first started. It should drop down some as it charges to about 14 volts. These are approximate numbers and only ranges for alternators vary as do read outs on the dash car to car.

But it seems that it is charging but somewhat low and definitely warrants looking into.
Old 06-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
I would tend to agree. You're in that suspicious area where it is not a flat 12 volts but should be about 14.5-14.7 in the morning when first started. It should drop down some as it charges to about 14 volts. These are approximate numbers and only ranges for alternators vary as do read outs on the dash car to car.

But it seems that it is charging but somewhat low and definitely warrants looking into.
In the 14 range on an 1988? I know the later models get up there but thought these tended to sit in the 13's. If it should be in the 14's, then a new Alternator is in my future. Thanks for all the advice fellas!
Old 06-10-2011, 03:18 PM
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A blown diode in the alternator will also give you a weak charge. (Jump starting someone else's vehicle can cause this.)

If you do need an alternator, I would recommend finding a shop in town to rebuild the one you have. They tend to be better quality than over the counter rebuilds. You can also have them upgrade it to put out more amperage, IF you need it. (upgraded lights, amps, speakers, etc)
Old 06-10-2011, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rag Top
A blown diode in the alternator will also give you a weak charge. (Jump starting someone else's vehicle can cause this.)

If you do need an alternator, I would recommend finding a shop in town to rebuild the one you have. They tend to be better quality than over the counter rebuilds. You can also have them upgrade it to put out more amperage, IF you need it. (upgraded lights, amps, speakers, etc)
Never heard of jump starting a vehicle to cause an altenator problem, unless you did something wrong.
Old 06-11-2011, 04:39 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
I would tend to agree. You're in that suspicious area where it is not a flat 12 volts but should be about 14.5-14.7 in the morning when first started. It should drop down some as it charges to about 14 volts. These are approximate numbers and only ranges for alternators vary as do read outs on the dash car to car.

But it seems that it is charging but somewhat low and definitely warrants looking into.
Took it up to O'Rielly's Auto Parts and had it load tested. He said the Alternator looked good, diodes were fine, etc.

Battery hangs in the 13.0-13.4 range when driving.
Old 06-12-2011, 12:56 AM
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Alternator output cold is 14.7 volts and the dash voltmeter will always read 0.3 volts lower due to voltage drop across the ignition switch contacts. The alternator is designed to reduce its output voltage with increasing temperature and your dash voltmeter should read 13.3 volts approximately when the alternator gets to its operating temperature.

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Old 06-12-2011, 01:28 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by jfb
Alternator output cold is 14.7 volts and the dash voltmeter will always read 0.3 volts lower due to voltage drop across the ignition switch contacts. The alternator is designed to reduce its output voltage with increasing temperature and your dash voltmeter should read 13.3 volts approximately when the alternator gets to its operating temperature.
Well, if that's the case, I'm good in re: to the electrical. My long extended crank issue then must be fuel delivery/injectors, most likely the latter since they are the originals. I put in 3/4 of a bottle in a full tank of premium gas yesterday. Put the other 1/4 bottle in the crankcase. I'm told this will help clean out the injectors and help with the long cranking and the hesitation I get once in a while as well.

Thanks for the replies everyone!
Old 06-12-2011, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony A.
Replaced the battery with an Autocraft Gold from AdvancedAutoParts. Used my $50 off over $100 coupon so got it for $55.

What a serious royal PITA to replace the battery. I had to remove the gill panel, loosen the lower rocker panel, and undo the engine shield just to get it out because some genius GM design engineer decided to put it under the Cruise control unit.

It does start right up now! Thanks everyone for the advice!
I put one of those in the wife's civic and I am impressed. 5 years old and still going strong.
Old 06-12-2011, 04:55 PM
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Tony A.
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Originally Posted by thearborbarber
I put one of those in the wife's civic and I am impressed. 5 years old and still going strong.
I took the old Everstart back to Walmart today and got a replacement battery. Since I already bought one, won't need it but nice to have as a backup. They wouldn't give me store credit or refund, only replacement so why not.


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