Have an 88 that stalls only after the service engine light come on.. Had the injectors checked they were all good. I've changed plugs, wires, rotor, distr cap and fuel filter. I do not know how to pull the codes to see why the service engine light is coming on. Help!

 

Checking for codes...

Take a paper clip and straighten it to a "U" shape. Under the steering wheel on the right side about knee level you should find a connector with a plastic cover over it. Remove the cover. With the car OFF, insert the paper clip into the two terminals at the top to the far right. So it is inserted in the farthest to the right and the one right next to it.

Now insert the key and turn the key to the ON position, do not start the car. The check engine light will flash once and then twice. It will do this three (3) times. This indicates the diagnostic system is working. It will then flash any trouble codes three times for each code. When all codes have been flashed, it will again flash once and then twice (code 12) three times. Take paper and pen with you so you can write down the codes. Remove the paper clip and replace the plastic cover.

These codes will continue to be stored in the computer until you decide to erase them. To do this, disconnect the negative battery cable for about 15 seconds and then reconnect. The codes will be erased.

Good luck.

 

Thanks...

 

Injectors have been checked, how?

When it stalls, are you at idle? If so, have you cleaned the IAC lately? That means take the TB off and clean everything including the IAC housing.

 

Its throwing 2 code.... 13 and 33

 

Code #13: Open Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
Code #33: Mass Air Flow Sensor High.

Agent86 - you have the FSM troubleshooting flows for these two?

 

Code 13 is O2 sensor, 33 is MAF. You must fix the Code 33 first, then I'll bet the Code 13 does not come back, always fix the code at the front of the engine first.

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2013.pdf

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2033.pdf

 

Here we go... Changed MAF cleared the code 33, changed the O2 sensor cleared the code 13. However now I'm getting a code 42 Electronic Spark Timing so I changed the Ignition Module and checked all the wires and connectors and everything was good. (Haynes) is asking me to set the initial base timing by disconnecting the timing connector near the brake booster. Will this fix my problem? I'm getting into the $$$$$ now with this car.

New
Wires/plugs
MAF
Disributor/Rotor
Ignition module
Port Tube to MAF
AC compressor
Clutch

 

Here we go... Changed MAF cleared the code 33, changed the O2 sensor cleared the code 13. However now I'm getting a code 42 Electronic Spark Timing so I changed the Ignition Module and checked all the wires and connectors and everything was good. (Haynes) is asking me to set the initial base timing by disconnecting the timing connector near the brake booster. Will this fix my problem? Or do I need a new ECM? I'm getting into the $$$$$ now with this car.

Replaced the following
Wires/plugs
MAF
Disributor/Rotor
Ignition module
Port Tube to MAF
AC compressor
Clutch

 

I believe Code 42 could be from disconnecting the tan EST wire. So, I would set the timing and then disconnect the battery and then drive it and see if I get it back. you can disconnect the EST wire and see what the timing is. Re-connect the est and see if the timing changes. IF it chances, life is good. Disconnect battery for a couple minutes and reconnect and drive it. See if it comes back

 

Ok thanks

 

Started the car and ran it at 2000 rpm for about 2-3 min. Then I noticed smoke coming from under the passengers seat. When I looked underneath the car the Catalytic converter was cherry red. Could a clogged Catalytic converter be causing my problems? (88 coupe)

 

YES!!!! The temp on the cat should be actually hotter on the rear side of the cat. If it is RED, it is clogged and overheating.

Word to the wise...replacing the cat is obvious but you may want to check if anything contributed to the clog, like leaking fuel from an overly rich condition.

 

I put some Sea foam in the tank on the last fill-up could that have anything to do with this problem?

 

In the tank will loosen up things in the fuel system, injectors, pump, etc. Possible I guess....

Seafoam site:

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment.html

Sea Foam® Motor Treatment #’s SF-16 (16 ounce), SF-128 (gallon container) and SF-55 (a 55 gallon drum) is used as a fuel additive in Gasoline, Ethanol Blends, Gas/oil mixes & ALL Diesel fuels. This includes all brands and grades of available fuels.
When added to these fuels, Sea Foam® Motor Treatment was specifically designed to safely do five (5) important tasks for you. They are:

1. Lubricates upper cylinders, fuel pumps, turbochargers, drawn-through superchargers, and related fuel system and exhaust system components. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment is a 100% blended petroleum product. That means Sea Foam® is OIL, so adding Sea Foam® to ANY fuel adds lubricity to fuel system components and upper cylinder areas of your engine.
2. Dries fuel system moisture. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment contains an oil component that acts as a co-solvent to effectively neutralize moisture when Sea Foam® Motor Treatment is added to any of the above-listed fuels. This helps to eliminate moisture-related problems like diesel fuel gelling and rough idling.
3. Cleans gum & varnish fuel residues from fuel system components. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment contains an oil-based high-detergent cleaner that liquefies old fuel residue and allows the contaminants to be filtered out in the manner designed by the engine manufacturer.
4. Cleans carbon deposits from combustion chamber. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment’s exclusive formula is blended specifically to clean carbon out of the engine as the engine is run. This is accomplished by our cleaning oil formula described in #3 above, which dissolves the old sticky fuel residue that holds the carbon particles that accumulate over time. Once the varnish residue is liquefied, the carbon particles are free to be safely blown out of the engine through the exhaust system.
5. Stabilizes fuel. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment adds volatility to fuel and slows down the rate at which that fuel loses its ability to properly burn. When added to fuel and the fuel is in properly sealed containers or fuel systems, Sea Foam® Motor Treatment is a fuel stabilizer for up to 2 years. Always run the engine for a long enough period of time to assure the Sea Foam® Motor treatment has been drawn through the entire system fuel system for complete protection.

 

First thing I did when I bought my Vette was to R&R the engine. At that time, I removed everything. That mean the manifolds to the exhaust tips. As such, I am not familiar with the stock system so bear with me.

Is it possible to disconnect he exhaust from behind the O2 sensor and run it? If the condition persists it might not be the cat. Or at least, it might not ONLY be the cat.

 

you could also be running lean causing the cats to turn red and timing being off can cause this also.