The suspence is killing me!
Mine started so I bet yours will to.

 

maybe its 2012 coming ...machines won't work anymore
well i cleaned the key real good yesternight ....we'll see
hehehe

 

Hi guys,just came back from the car and after a couple of tests this is what i have found yet.

- Removed the bezel and Information Center panel checked all three fuses and they were good, i replaced the HATCH fuse, that was burned.
Theft fuse was fine, tried to start the car, no changes.

- i connected a test light to the "Batt" terminal that goes to the distributor, put the key in the ON position, i have light.

- Bypassed the starter and it works,i connected a direct wire to the positive battery terminal and i was able to turn the engine.
Seems like the starter is fine.

- Connected the test light to the starter this time to check if the RUN position sends energy,it seems that doesnt work at all.

- Checked out the neutral position safety switch and its connected.
i don't think it failed from one day to another ...


It's strange that this is happening but ...tomorrow i will do the last test
there is a really thin wire that goes to the starter,maybe that wire cut or got loose...that's my last chance before i can call it an official VATS Trouble !

im getting a new key set as well !

Thanks ! Hope i get this solved soon !

 

I have several "ALLIGATOR JUMPER TEST LEADS" in my toolbox at work Sammy.
I use them to reach into hard to reach places such as the that PURPLE GM starter solenoid wire, or crank enable wire.
I have one test lead that is 6 feet long.
I connect one end to the starter solenoid Purple wire terminal & the other end to a 12 VDC test Light.
The other end of the test light Is connected to the battery ground or chassis ground.
I place the test light underneath the driver's windsheild wiper arm.
That way I have a clear view of it at all times.
Sit down in your Vette then & crank the engine.
If the test light lights up brightly,
ALL IS WELL/ OK.
If not I start back tracking the VATS or other style factory or aftermarket security system.
Or I suspect the ignition switch.
Either way if the test light does not light up,
Further troubleshooting is required.

It takes me about 2 minutes to make this test on any GM, FORD, Chrysler, Japenese, Or Euro car, truck, or SUV.
I even do the same on Big Rig Semi trucks.

Brian

 

Thanks BR !!! Hope is the small starter wire !

 

You have Exhaust headers I know that Sammy,

If You are lucky,
the high heat nearby COOKED the Terminal & Wiring.

Splice in & solder a new length of 10 gauge wire down to the stater solenoid terminal.

I have had the same problem on every one of my cars I ever ran headers on.

I had to get creative with finding ways to reroute the + Positive battery cable & Purple starter solenoid wires.

On my TA I ran both cables/ wires down from the rear of the engine block & between an opening where Powermaster & engine block are.
3/4" inch gap present.

Big primary tube headers ( 2").

I had to extend the wires & cables 2 feet on that car.

Solved all issues with Hot starting problems & cooked wiring for good.

I was laying on my back one day chain smoking cigarettes one after an other under my 70 TA.
It just came to me 1 hour later what to do.


Brian R.

 

Yes, probably a cooked wire ! yes i have headers , tomorrow we'll find out !
Hope so !!! Thank you !!!

 

You are welcome Sammy.

Some day You will help me post up some Pics here on C4.

Computer Savy I am not.

But I know You are.

 

No prob ! Check your PM's !

 

been following along, trying to stay ahead of your thinking -or keep up.

not sure what the extra wire is to your starter that you mention?

seems that the hatch problem and this one are connected. no idea how.

also, have you located all fuses on the 87? my 91 has a crank fuse, 3A.

you tried wiggling the shifter in neutral, while turning key? they do go bad with the speed of light. although most wiring that builds resistance, ie, starter connections, often give some evidence of failing.

does sound like VATS, but have had neutral safety switches fail. no way to check except at the switch that I know of. remove console, etc...

maybe you said, but during cranking, the "security" light should remain blinking if it is VATS. maybe not accurate and I will check my 'NEW" fsm on that.

joe

 

Joe, thanks for chiming in !
The extra wire to the starter is that tiny one,i will check it today.
My guy feeling is with the hatch as well because ...that was the only unusual thing i did,start it with the hatch open
Now ...i found a blown hatch fuse ...i replaced it but no luck ...what if ...."hatch" and "crank" (the one you mention) fuses
both blown at the same time ? " Where is the 3A crank fuse ? i don't think the 87 is same to the 91 in that matter
i will go and double check all of the fuses again. Maybe starter enable fuse.
It surely sounds like VATS (I Hope not) i will check for code 46 today as well.
Yes i believe the security light does blink,but not 100% sure
Thanks !

 

Do you here the fuel pump kick in when you turn the key? Should be a 2 second prime before it starts. Battery cables torqued to 11ft lbs.

 

Yes,car does not crank,at all
It's not a fuel or spark problem

 

my fsm 91 shows one purple on solenoid, that is connetcted 100 times to differnt things, exaggeration, but purple comes directly from the neutral safety switch.

remember, these wires are only hot when key is in "START", so if checking with a light to ground, someone has to operate key. or they appear dead.

if you have a third wire, it may be jumping from pos cable terminal to something else, not part of starter, comprende?
also, I am familiar with the pre C4 stuff, not ecm stuff.

as for crank fuse, mine is in secondary fuse panel under glove box. your owner's manual should show where all your replaceable fuses are. can't see a conn with hatch system, but curious.

of course, when checking stuff, wiggle, twist, etc while key is on.

joe -still looking at the fsm, but it's a 91

 

comment...I noticed that the hatch release is connected with the NSS -neutral switch- if operated from console release switch. not from doors. through ground, not power. not sure how you opened hatch, does not seem to be related any other way.

 

from the door im sure

 

Can you fully disable the VATS via the chip? Or do you have to do something else also to the car like was mentioned about jumping the starter enable relay?

 

Guys , im back again with some news, i did an extensive test day today and the good thing is that the key and cylinder are good,i was able to put a test light and it lit inmediatly. Well, on FSM suplement 8A-133-11 i got to the Starter enable relay test
and everything was fine until "C2" and i used a jumper wire to "E" Yellow wire and "A" "Green/white wire". and Car's ALIVE !!!!!! Cranked like a champ !!!

That leaded me to another step : "C3" and i will quote the FSM here :

" Reconnect the starter enable relay amd connect a fused jumper from terminal "V"
(dk green) wire of the VATS Decoder module to ground . Turn ignition switch to start.

if engine cranks : replace the VATS Decoder module
if engine doesnt crank : check the Green wire for open,if its ok,replace Starter enable solenoid.


Here's the problem ! i checked my VATS unit ...and there is no "V" Terminal at all !
i have A - B - C - D - E - F only ...i looked everywhere and i didnt find any of that !

Looking at the "Harness connector faces" for VATS it says " see heater and a/c programmer (C68)" and if i go to see that on the FSM yes there is a long 10 terminal
connector with L - M - N - P - R -S - T -U - V -W

This is what i thought its the VATS Module ...i cannot find other thing near that !
maybe im wrong and i took off another thing !

My first suspect here is the Starter Enable Relay so im getting a new one for sure !
but the VATS Module got me real confused ...thanks !


Is this the VATS ??????

 

damn i disconnected another thing ...found a corvetteron picture and this is the VATS
its behind the bread box !

 

Pre 90 cars its just a click when programming the chip. Not sure on 90 up they have a CCM or BCM that may have to be dealt with.