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I just found out that the stock lenghth pushrods are fine with just a cam upgrade. They are hardend chrome moly and will work with guide plates? Is this correct?
Dennis
I just found out that the stock lenghth pushrods are fine with just a cam upgrade. They are hardend chrome moly and will work with guide plates? Is this correct?
Dennis
Changing heads and a thinner head gasket can throw off your valvetrain geometry. Just make sure you check your pushrod length. Yes if the correct length, the Chromemoly pushrods will work with guide plates.
I say don't bother with the bigger TB, stay stock. Smaller means less flow but more air velocity. I have a more aggressive build than you, but back to back dyno showed an INCREASE in power changing from my 52mm to a stock 48 mm LT1 TB.
Of course either way you need a tune, the car leaned out with the smaller TB which wouldn't be safe.
TB's are like tires, everyone tells you to get the biggest that will fit on your car but that's not always true.
I say don't bother with the bigger TB, stay stock. Smaller means less flow but more air velocity. I have a more aggressive build than you, but back to back dyno showed an INCREASE in power changing from my 52mm to a stock 48 mm LT1 TB.
Of course either way you need a tune, the car leaned out with the smaller TB which wouldn't be safe.
TB's are like tires, everyone tells you to get the biggest that will fit on your car but that's not always true.
That's why I chose the Heads I did. A tad smaller port but higher velocity with great flow.
Last guy I used was $50/hr but that was a few years ago. I assume your talking about welding up the A.I.R. tubing? It shouldnt take more than an hour or two.
I paid ~$120 to have my headers connected to the cat-back. They built 3"-2.5" adapters, narrowed/shortened the cat-back tubes, and installed an extra o2 bung for this price.