C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Yet another timing question

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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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Default Yet another timing question

I have a new chip from TPIS for my new engine and I am trying to set the timing. I disconnected the est wire, started the engine and set timing to about 9*.Turned engine off reconnected the est wire and disconnected battery.Reconnected battery and tried to start. The engine turns over and it almost starts but does not no matter what I do.I disconnected the est wire again and it starts instantly. I've done this a few times with the same result. Please tell me what the heck I am doing wrong. Thanks
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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Make sure you are 9 BTDC. Make sure you are on #1 plug wire. Also the balancers on these are know to slip with age. Also make sure by messing with the est wire that it is not rubbing thru something and is grounding out.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gp85
I have a new chip from TPIS for my new engine and I am trying to set the timing. I disconnected the est wire, started the engine and set timing to about 9*.Turned engine off reconnected the est wire and disconnected battery.Reconnected battery and tried to start. The engine turns over and it almost starts but does not no matter what I do.I disconnected the est wire again and it starts instantly. I've done this a few times with the same result. Please tell me what the heck I am doing wrong. Thanks
spins fast, or spins fast, then hesitates, spins again? other words, retarded or too advanced?
what year? how did you arrive at 9*, which is high for stock engines?

the ign module has some advance unless you have modified it.

possibly, the stock parmeters have no influence, but normally, too much static advance causes the engine to halt during crank, then spin free again, on and on. retarded spins but does not seem to fire.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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Sorry I should have stated it's an 85.The engine is a 385ci with 10.9 cr. The only part I think that is left from the original engine is the plenum,which is fully ported.When the engine spins with the est connected it spins freely and fast and does not hesitate (new battery and mini starter) but does not start.My headers interfer with #1 spark plug so I couldn't pull it out to verify I was at #1tdc.I took the valve cover off and rotated the engine until #1 intake valve opened and started to close.Then I rotated the engine up to the 9* mark lined up the distributor and started the engine.It was pretty close and hardly needed any adjustment .That's when I stopped the engine and reconnected the est and my problem began.As for the damper, it is a new fluidamper.I will go out to the garage now and check if the est wire has any chaffing.Thanks for your help it is appreciated.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gp85
Sorry I should have stated it's an 85.The engine is a 385ci with 10.9 cr. The only part I think that is left from the original engine is the plenum,which is fully ported.When the engine spins with the est connected it spins freely and fast and does not hesitate (new battery and mini starter) but does not start.My headers interfer with #1 spark plug so I couldn't pull it out to verify I was at #1tdc.I took the valve cover off and rotated the engine until #1 intake valve opened and started to close.Then I rotated the engine up to the 9* mark lined up the distributor and started the engine.It was pretty close and hardly needed any adjustment .That's when I stopped the engine and reconnected the est and my problem began.As for the damper, it is a new fluidamper.I will go out to the garage now and check if the est wire has any chaffing.Thanks for your help it is appreciated.
you lost me with removing valve cover and all but no matter. there's an easier way.
I set my 91 with the est single tan'blk wire d/c, engine hot, auto trans in drive -which is to pull the rpm down, I guess, per the label on the rad shroud.

it is now at 7* but was at 0 for two years and ran "fine." more low end with 7*.

if I allow the engine to climb rpm, I see the ign module adding about another 6-8* advance. So, if I had retarded the base timing, I would actually be at 0 or 2 atdc. follow that?

your engine may be retarded. to find out, simply advance the housing CCW about .100", measured at the small diameter where the clamp is.
then starting it to see if it made a diff, if so, you may have proven that timing was retarded.

I would concentrate on keeping rpm low as possible so as not to interpret the module advance for base timing. check timing again, of course.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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had to add or clarify...fr0m your description it sounds like retard, but from your comments about getiing no start with the est connected it sounds like too much advance, since the est should be adding advance and ecm does not know what the base timeing is.

joe
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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That sounds like a good idea.I'll have to do that in the morning because I don't know which would be worse, waking a grizzly bear up from hibernation or waking the wife.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:48 PM
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I just read that last post from you Joe.Let me get this correct.With the est wire disconnectd the ecm cannot make timing adjustments.When you have the timing set and est reconnected and attempt to start the ecm will automatically advance the timing.Is this right because even if you had 20*btdc it would still start.If it is about how many degrees does it?I also checked the wire for caffing and found it O.K
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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maybe a bad chip also did you try your old one?
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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When I called TPIS they said they needed the ecm, something about piggybacking a chip onto mine.So I pulled the ecm and sent it with the chip inside. I would have much rather have taken the car to a shop and had it done right but I looked for a couple of months and nobody could do it around here.I hope the chip is O.K because I can't test it and it was freaking expensive.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:32 AM
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Three degrees shouldn't make that much of a difference, but did the chip man advise you to set the timing at 9 degrees? Usually it is set at 6. You might want to just leave the est connected and play with the distributor (advance or retard the thing) until you get the motor started. It sounds like you will need to retard it. After you get it started and running smooth, drive it. If you hear or can scan for detonation or ignition retard due to detonation, retard until it disappears. If you have no detonation, keep advancing until you hear or see it with your scanner. Retard until it is gone and you might be good to go. The motor obviously doesn't want to run where you have the timing set now.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Three degrees shouldn't make that much of a difference, but did the chip man advise you to set the timing at 9 degrees? Usually it is set at 6. You might want to just leave the est connected and play with the distributor (advance or retard the thing) until you get the motor started. It sounds like you will need to retard it. After you get it started and running smooth, drive it. If you hear or can scan for detonation or ignition retard due to detonation, retard until it disappears. If you have no detonation, keep advancing until you hear or see it with your scanner. Retard until it is gone and you might be good to go. The motor obviously doesn't want to run where you have the timing set now.
you said it more clearly than I, guy. his description says retarded, but it behaves like advanced.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is even a spark advance issue. that engine should start with a lot of advance. if too much, it would tell you by kicking back. at least, the old big block high compression would.
I think the est connected has the "potential" to advance timing, but not sure if it does at start rpm's, and don't believe it does.

it appears the the engine is shut down by the est.

I am totally uninformed about chip changes and all. once again, I have waded into a discussion where I have no expertise.
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