Weird Problem with a '93
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 224
Likes: 2
From: Deerfield Beach FL
Weird Problem with a '93
Hello everyone...
I have a '93 40th Coupe with 16k miles.
I just noticed that it seems that my A/C Pressure Cycling switch is oily.
The oil is actually dripping down onto the frame, not alot but enough to have me concerened about it.
I have never experienced this before. Is this a common problem?
Please LMK if anyone has dealt with this before and what I need to do to fix it.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses...
I have a '93 40th Coupe with 16k miles.
I just noticed that it seems that my A/C Pressure Cycling switch is oily.
The oil is actually dripping down onto the frame, not alot but enough to have me concerened about it.
I have never experienced this before. Is this a common problem?
Please LMK if anyone has dealt with this before and what I need to do to fix it.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Things on the A/C lines sometimes look oily which might be microscopic leakage which might be normal over the years and not a problem. But if oil is dripping from the switch, that sounds like it's too much leakage. The switch is easy to replace and the system does not have to be opened.
If you have and concerns about it, I would just change it. It screws on and off simply and then just attach the connector.
If you have and concerns about it, I would just change it. It screws on and off simply and then just attach the connector.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 224
Likes: 2
From: Deerfield Beach FL
Things on the A/C lines sometimes look oily which might be microscopic leakage which might be normal over the years and not a problem. But if oil is dripping from the switch, that sounds like it's too much leakage. The switch is easy to replace and the system does not have to be opened.
If you have and concerns about it, I would just change it. It screws on and off simply and then just attach the connector.
If you have and concerns about it, I would just change it. It screws on and off simply and then just attach the connector.
Just so we are clear, This is the switch right in front of the Black expansion tank with the green and bluish wires coming from the plug.
I've never had any A/C issues so far and I am still running the R12.
So this is a straight foward bolt off, bolt on installation?
Please advise.....
Thanks a Bunch for the help so far....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Well kinda - it's on a schrader valve so you want to screw it off and on as fast as you can because as long as that valve is depressed, gas and oil will squirt out. You also want to make sure you get an R12 switch which sets the cutoff threshold at 25 psi. An R134 switch is set at 22.5 psi and if you use one of those, it'll make ice cubes at lower ambients (below 70 degrees). The last switch I bought was advertised for R12 but had the R134 threshold and I didn't realize it until I was working on something else and noticed the frosty lines. Also, don't go ape on the new switch - hand tight and no more than one turn is all it takes.
The only other issue would be the oil and refrigerant loss. You can get an idea about how much refrigerant is in it by obtaining operating pressures with a manifold gage set, but the oil is a bigger guess. You need a proper fill to carry the oil which lubes the compressor and of course the proper amount of oil to keep it from grenading. The Discounters use to sell a kit that would allow you to put an ounce of mineral oil (which is used with R12) into it through the low pressure service port (you simply screwed it onto the fitting and then used a wrench to turn a plunger which forced the oil into it) - but I haven't seen one of those in Years. Therefore, it might be worth a 100 Bucks to have a shop check it out and top it off, though the best way to get it right would be to suck all the gas out; yank the Accumulator and drain out & measure whatever oil is in it; then replace it with a new one adding whatever oil was drained out plus an ounce or two. They'd probably want more than $100 for that, though a shop at least has the equipment to store and reuse your gas.
The only other issue would be the oil and refrigerant loss. You can get an idea about how much refrigerant is in it by obtaining operating pressures with a manifold gage set, but the oil is a bigger guess. You need a proper fill to carry the oil which lubes the compressor and of course the proper amount of oil to keep it from grenading. The Discounters use to sell a kit that would allow you to put an ounce of mineral oil (which is used with R12) into it through the low pressure service port (you simply screwed it onto the fitting and then used a wrench to turn a plunger which forced the oil into it) - but I haven't seen one of those in Years. Therefore, it might be worth a 100 Bucks to have a shop check it out and top it off, though the best way to get it right would be to suck all the gas out; yank the Accumulator and drain out & measure whatever oil is in it; then replace it with a new one adding whatever oil was drained out plus an ounce or two. They'd probably want more than $100 for that, though a shop at least has the equipment to store and reuse your gas.
