Which stroker kit?
Easy questions and difficult answers.. Dont want an engine causing me problems later.
1 less machine work stroker cranks require clearancing.
False. My Billet crank required ZERO clearancing.
2 less stress on your stock cooling system
Taking the car to the track like in your sig is stressing your cooling system. doing any mods this is the case.
3 no need for an expencive aftermarket timing system
False. My friend has a built 383 that has been running for over 9 years with stock opti system
4 less tuning issues
False again. If you are building anything you get it tuned according. My friend had ONE chip burned he plugged it in and 9 years later still running strong.
5 less stess on block (take a dial caliper see what .30 looks like compare to the space between the cylenders ouch!!!)
Cant argue with you here. Cant have it all. Doing any mods or wanting more power is obviously going to stress something.
6 stock throtle body will feed it
False. Stock throttle body is good for 500+ hp.
7 stock fuel pump works too
Stock fuel pump works or it doesnt. Doing anything to make more power can call for a new pump. Pumps are cheap and easy to swap from above anyways.
8 stock injectors? yup
Stock injectors can make good power. Yes you will be stressing them more but they can handle it. Increase pressure for more flow they have a higher hp limit than most believe.
9 stock clutch....aha
Dont see why a stock clutch can't work for a mild build? I ran it with full bolt ons running mid-high 12s @ 112 mph and never had an issue. proper install/machining is key here.
10 general reliability every aftermarket "performance" part you add increases your chance of having the thing grenade on you by a factor of 10!!
maybe with your builder it's 10.
11GO AHEAD ASK YOU BUILDER WHAT HAPENS IF THE AFTERMARKET STUFF BREAKS!!! HE WILL TELL YOU FLAT OUT I GET MORE MONEY TO DO IT AGAIN!!!!
You pay to play of course. You pay for what you get. if you can afford Lingenfelter they stand behind their work. If you pay Joe Blow to machine your block chances are he'll be machining your new one. There is a Toyota Corolla forum I can send you a link.. perhaps those cars are more suited for you.
the advantages to a 383
1 sounds cool
2 ah let me see.....ah
3 sounds cool
How about more power? Lots more?
disadvantages of a 383
1 never going to beat a stock ls car ever road racing or drag racing(UNLESS AN EXPERT DRIVER)
I had no problems dispatching c6z06s with my LT4
2 they go boomb!!!
Yes mine did too ! but after an obvious mistake on their part. nature of the beast. I went elsewhere and destroyed their reputation by telling people the truth.
3 lets see ah....did i tell you they go boomb!!!
Some rods are profiled so you wont need clearancing with stroker cranks but it can be close.
I would suggest a better timing chain like the LT4 ED or an LT4 set over a 93 chain link.
Ls7 lifter I presume?
Yes mine did too ! but after an obvious mistake on their part. nature of the beast. I went elsewhere and destroyed their reputation by telling people the truth.
this is really confusing!!!!!why you would coment on my post try in vain to make it look like i dont know what im talking about......say yeh i know a guy who had one work one time but mine blew up? say its the same size? so what !!!!!....it blew up because of someone who made a mistake...im telling you kid they blow up !!!!!! im leaving for the track now i dont have time to argue im just telling the truth too...
Boring / stroking a LT1 version of a SBC
Crank;same
Rods ;same
Pistons; same
The fact the coolant flows the opposite way, a different intake /spark system
or the color of the valve covers has no bearing on the machining of the block.
And if you want to get picky.
Other than the coolant passages , the LT1 block is identical to a GEN I SBC.
Same deck height , same cam c/l , same bore spacing , same head bolt pattern .........
Out in the REAL world ; nobody refers to a GEN III LSX engine as a traditional SBC because the only thing the two have in common is the badge

When You are done & ready with 383's & wet sump oil systems for flat out road race use at 140 to 180 mph get a hold of me George.
Its not drag racing I know.
Most don't have a clue whats involved to build 1 to stay together for that type of racing & to win.
Gunny has been around too.
He knows also.
Brian R.
Nothing you say makes any sense except for the fact you had bad luck with a 383 engine and think everyone else will too.
Exactly the point.

The differences you rabbit on about have no bearing on the topic the OP asked about;
boring and stroking a 350 SBC
Nothing you say makes any sense except for the fact you had bad luck with a 383 engine and think everyone else will too.
Exactly the point.

The differences you rabbit on about have no bearing on the topic the OP asked about;
boring and stroking a 350 SBC
Points out 383 & following the crowd is not for everyone.
Let George Rant & Rave & Freak out Cussing away.
He blew up 7 383's so far.
#8 is on the way too.
God Damn, Mother ficken, **** sucken, Sun of a bitch, Mother ficken Azz mother ficker.............
Got a head start for you George...........Carry on
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I do like Trackman's ingenuity though. Some of his work on cooling may one day benefit us all. I swear, if I lived closer I'd build him an engine for free just to show him that they do work. I'd have to put in a rev limiter though. I'm thinking what......3500 RPM.
I do like Trackman's ingenuity though. Some of his work on cooling may one day benefit us all. I swear, if I lived closer I'd build him an engine for free just to show him that they do work. I'd have to put in a rev limiter though. I'm thinking what......3500 RPM.

Hillbilly guys like You & Me Gunny have dirt tracks around us in Kentucky & Illinois.
You can watch 383's sbc's with wet sump oil pans attached go BOOM all you want.
I have.............LOL
Those dirt track guys literally run over 1 another to get ahead & win.
I sleep.
About like You.
I have a 13 month old boy that is my daily alarm clock.
5am & up lately.
Find the keys to the 87 Vert,
70 T/A,
& my other cars.
Claim them as his..........LOL
Nothing you say makes any sense except for the fact you had bad luck with a 383 engine and think everyone else will too.
Exactly the point.

The differences you rabbit on about have no bearing on the topic the OP asked about;
boring and stroking a 350 SBC
Add a mezziere water pump and you can use ANY SBC single or double roller timing chain. Is the LTX THAT different? NO
It has reverse flow cooling. Big deal. Not hard to machine traditional SBC heads to work with an LTX block. Is it really that special or different? NO
Seriously you need to get lost in this thread. The op asked for stroker input not a cry babys experience with an LT1 who now preaches that all strokers are bad. seriously. Get lost.
I don't think many people run them like Trackman and nothing against him, just saying it seems like maybe he has a builder problem or he really runs it hard and finds the builder's problems.
I think the obvious answer here is for street applications the 383's hold up most of the time, but if you plan to race and beat the hell out of it a DART block or something else is the route to go and then stronger internals. Also not saying some guys don't drag race GM 383's here, but Trackman runs long and hard compared to staging and 11-15 seconds full tilt.
Many 350s turned 383 out there, now we should get a poll of how many race them and how many times they broke.
If you need to spend much on the crank / rods / pistons, for what ever reason, the 3.75 or 3.8 stroke combo wont cost much if any more. Given a equivalent setup it will make the same power at a lower rpm than a 3.48 stroke or more power at the same rpm. in a street car it will probly rev faster simply because it makes more tork. The longer stroke will increase piston speed, so with the same rod in each setup the longer stroke will break the rod a couple hundred rpm sooner. Making similar power at a lower rpm will allow the use of a cheaper valve train or put less strain on a equal valve train.
bottom line as I see it; If you need to buy pistons, work on the crank and/or rods then a 3.75 or 3.8 stroke is nearly free power.
edit; check crank case as well as crank / rod to cam clearance. Consider a rod such as the scat stroker series when choosing a rotating kit. A small base circle cam should not be nessary but be shure to check.
A quick call to Scat will get you headed in the right direction. They will get you set up with the right part numbers then take their specs to Summit, Jegs, Competition Products ect to load up the VISA card!
I hope this is helpfull and that I presented this clearly.
Dave
btw the GMPP 383s are standard bore w/ 3.8 stroke
Last edited by Crepitus; Oct 17, 2011 at 01:11 AM.
Last edited by Rocket-J; Oct 17, 2011 at 03:36 PM. Reason: sp
























