I have pulled engine and trans from my LT1 93 vette. Also I have bought a Trick Flow 430 HP kit (heads and cam). Stock crankshaft needs workshop time - but workshop time in Norway is quite expensive and cost more than new crankshaft..

I have decided not to bore block, only hone (block is in very good condtion).

I also have decided to by new crankshaft and pistons. And my question is, either go for a new 350 kit or 383 kit? Cc in trick flow heads are 54 cc and as far as I understand that might be a problem with 383 stroker?

Anyone here with experience with trick flow 430 hp kit and stroker? Would like to go stroker but if I not confident I stay 350 ... Any comments and ideas?

 

Cant go stroker without boring the block. 383= .30 over.

 

You can buy stroker piston in standard bore 4.000. Probe makes them among others. Just won't be 383, around 378 I think.

 

if your asking me stay 350.....383 requires lots of stuff that can go very wrong... if you stay 350 your advantages are :
1 less machine work stroker cranks require clearancing.
2 less stress on your stock cooling system
3 no need for an expencive aftermarket timing system
4 less tuning issues
5 less stess on block (take a dial caliper see what .30 looks like compare to the space between the cylenders ouch!!!)
6 stock throtle body will feed it
7 stock fuel pump works too
8 stock injectors? yup
9 stock clutch....aha
10 general reliability every aftermarket "performance" part you add increases your chance of having the thing grenade on you by a factor of 10!!
11GO AHEAD ASK YOU BUILDER WHAT HAPENS IF THE AFTERMARKET STUFF BREAKS!!! HE WILL TELL YOU FLAT OUT I GET MORE MONEY TO DO IT AGAIN!!!!

the advantages to a 383
1 sounds cool
2 ah let me see.....ah
3 sounds cool

disadvantages of a 383
1 never going to beat a stock ls car ever road racing or drag racing(UNLESS AN EXPERT DRIVER)
2 they go boomb!!!
3 lets see ah....did i tell you they go boomb!!!

 

Anything can go boom
Defective parts, machine work, tuning/assy etc.
had (carb to pan) almost 13k in a 350 and was pulled less than 100 miles later. Happens.

 

So just because you got a cr*p build don't expect every one else to have the same problems.
Any engine put together badly ( or driven wrongly ) can go BOOM
How about the fact a aftermarket steel crank is stronger than a stock one?

Minimal work to clearance block
My original 87 radiator has no problem keeping my 500Hp engine cool sitting in the staging lanes in summer.
Stock ECM (retuned )
No idea why you THINK you need a aftermarket timing system
Stock 48mm TB was used on GMPP 502 engine

More torque at lower revs less stress on engine for same performance

 

Awww, c'mon now Trackman, 383's are not a problem. It's probably the most done stroker in the history of engines. I've built many, many of them and don't recall any of them ever going "boomb". A lot more than sounding cool is the added torque that keeps a grin on your face and they are capable of tearing up many LS1's.

I shift my Impala SS 383 at 6800 and drive it daily. It's amazing to watch the LS1 and LS2 guys in my rear view mirror. I run 11.78 with a car that weighs over 4200 pounds. Tuning is no different and the stock fuel pump probably won't work with his Trick Flow 430 HP set up either.

Like most things, the engine is only as good as the builder. You can use the best parts available and put them together sloppily and get less than a hundred miles out of an engine. The last 383 in my car also ran high 11's and got 21 mpg on the highway and had 70,000 miles on it. I only pulled it to make some changes and because I'm retired now and bored.

Thomasev, you're right about the pistons. The 54cc heads would require you to get some pistons with about a -16cc dish. That will keep your compression where it needs to be. They are available from several sources. The block will need clearanced and that is workshop time. The stroker will give you a lot more fun because of the added torque. IMHO.

 

you dont have an lt1!!!!

 

yes your a pro!!! most all others arnt... most now dont even want to or will not work on lt1s ....pheonix performance .... east cost supercharging...he asked for an opinon i gave him one ....

 

No idea why you THINK you need a aftermarket timing system
lt1's stock timing chain woulnt move a bicycle it streached so bad it almost came of...lt4s better....

 

You didn't say "Timing Chain" ;
most would consider a "aftermarket timing system " as something Electronic.
In any case ,upgrade of stock parts is part of a Perf build up ( unless you want your engine to go BOOM )

 

What relevence is that??????
Rotating assembly on one piece RMS engines is the same ;
be it L98 , Vortec or LTX
Take out the crank, the rods and pistons are the same as every SBC made since '55

Time for you to open the skool books

And your opinion would be in the minority; many happy 383 owners on here

 

Some stroker sbc combinations are better suited for Road Racing than others George ( Trackman).

383 ci is a nice super torque engine & easy to build with off the shelf parts for the street & dragstrip.

OK for circle track use from what I seen & known people with them.

A 369ci, 377 ci, 393, 410, 415, 421, 430 , 434 will walk all over them 383's if properly built.

Its all in the engine parameters, intended use & required operating powerband(s), & mathematics at work.

Brian

 

Be surprised how well less cubes & less crankshaft stroke works in a SBC when you need to wind it out above 8K rpm's consistent.

Need to gear down for more off the corner torque although.

Out of the corner & RPM's are up.

Long stroke SBC need more time to get to Peak HP with heavier rotating assembly.

Shorter stroke engine is up front once again.

 

lots of differences thats the problem with them every one thinks there the same but there not.....not even close.....time for you to read some books!!!!!! you say what you think i say what i know!!!!!!

 

Most important catch words for You George is "Dry Sump".

You are wet sumping again I know..........

I will hide when it blows too.........#8.

#9 maybe you will be ready to build my way or purchase that used NASCAR engine.

 

ok mr rodj.. here some facts....
1 block........different
2 heads........different
3 intake.........different
3 colling system....different
4 ignition system....different
5 clutch.i should say fly wheel...............different
timing chain .........different
cam..............different
they are totally different animals

 

if i read ur post your saying a gen1 small block is the same as an ls motor

 

Once again totally irrelevant to what is actually being discussed in this post ;
Boring / stroking a LT1 version of a SBC
Crank;same
Rods ;same
Pistons; same
The fact the coolant flows the opposite way, a different intake /spark system
or the color of the valve covers has no bearing on the machining of the block.

And if you want to get picky.
Other than the coolant passages , the LT1 block is identical to a GEN I SBC.
Same deck height , same cam c/l , same bore spacing , same head bolt pattern .........

Out in the REAL world ; nobody refers to a GEN III LSX engine as a traditional SBC because the only thing the two have in common is the badge

 

Stupidest post ive seen in years. And thats coming from someone who has blown up a fully built 8000 rpm LT4.

I could pick apart the post above but im not going to waste my time. to the OP.. ignore every post of his and lets move on...

If you are going to buy a crankshaft yes you want to buy a stroker crank. You do NOT need to bore the motor to make a stroker (sigh). A stroker motor is not =383. A stroker is any crank that has an increased stroke giving you more displacement. Like mentioned above you will have slightly less than 383 but that's ok, you still have more than 350.

Now, you are presumably buying heads/cam for more power ? If you are then its a no brainer to buy a stroker crank for sure. Yes you can rev the motor higher to make power from smaller displacement but then you may have to pay more and risk more with more expensive parts, solid roller valvetrain et etc. I chose to do both but my bank account is also missing $20k.

If you dont mind me saying, have you thought about machining the crank anywhere else in europe? there are LOTS of tuning shops that work on BMWs/Audis?porsches in neighboring countries maybe then can do the machine work for you? I like the idea of leaving the bore std.

You can go with LT4 extreme timing chain or you can buy almost ANY SBC double roller or roller chain if you want to install an electric water pump. If you do heads/cam you will need a tune anyways so might as well get a stroker and have a chip burned for the setup. there are a few shoppes that can make one for you.