C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Is This the Master Cylinder?

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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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Default Is This the Master Cylinder? Part 2

A couple facts first:
Original 1994 Master Cylinder
C5 Front Brakes
Well Bled system
No external Leaks
No idiot lights on dash indicating a brake problem

On first push, pedal sinks to the floor, I can pump it up and then get a firm pedal that does not sink to the floor. This is all stationary in the garage with or without the engine on. I have not driven it in this condition.

Last edited by Sidney004; Nov 5, 2011 at 12:50 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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Generally that is a sign of air in the brake system.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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What they said. If it were the master cylinder the pedal would slowly go to the floor as fluid seeped by the inner seals.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Sidney004
I have not driven it in this condition.
Best not to or you might need more than a master......like a front end.

Get yourself a master and you will be good go go.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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The air in the lines and the need for bleeding does not make a whole lot of sense for me. The car is basically a race car with speedbleeders on every corner. As I said in the original post, the brakes were freshly bled; there is no air in the lines. I bleed the brakes after every event. Thanks for the feedback though.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:28 PM
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The C4 MC is not the best MC on GMs inventory.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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if you still have the abs working , reverse pressure bleed from the rears to and thru the abs. something else you can do is to pull the abs fuse and see if it duplicates the issue

Last edited by oldalaskaman; Oct 16, 2011 at 11:01 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 01:02 AM
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Okay an update. Changed master cylinder, bench bled master cylinder with cardone syringe tool, bled all calipers(I have speedbleeders) and after all that; basically same deal pedal sinks on first push(maybe not as bad as before) and will be normal after you pump it up. Removed the ABS fuse(behind battery) and no difference. Oh yeah, to top it off the alternator stopped charging in the middle of all this

What do you think I should try next; is there any way to positively eliminate the ABS as a possible source of an internal leak. Its beginning to look like my track events are over until next year unless I can get this solved. Thanks for everyone's help.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 01:08 AM
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take it to a shop, tell them you just did the work, have them preasure bleed it.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Installed brand new pads and ........ problem solved.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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when you pushed the caliper piston in to install the new pads, you reverse pressure bled the system, good for you
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
when you pushed the caliper piston in to install the new pads, you reverse pressure bled the system, good for you
I don't get it. When I pushed the pistons back with the bleeders closed you think I bled air back thru the master cylinder.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Sidney004
I don't get it. When I pushed the pistons back with the bleeders closed you think I bled air back thru the master cylinder.
I kind of agree with your comment as is did not fully embrace the other comment but did not comment myself because you can't argue with success.

However the only thing that comes to mind is if the master had some trapped air in it (or in a connecting line close by), and possibly back bleeding it pushed the air thru the master and out.
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