C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A/C is not engaging?

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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #41  
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I tried the DC voltage test on the switch itself and it read .01..I wiggled both switches around and got nothing still. I have not tried to wiggle the relays and even Volage check them yet.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
I tried the DC voltage test on the switch itself and it read .01..I wiggled both switches around and got nothing still. I have not tried to wiggle the relays and even Volage check them yet.
If you are checking across the cycling switch itself, you should be measuring on the lowest OHMS scale. You are not making a voltage measurement, you are making a resistance measurement thru a switch. It should be near 0 ohms (a few ohms is probably OK.. less than 3 or so). The car does not have to be on at all.

Do it again.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #43  
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well the pins in my switch are not able to be seen, so I will have to get a mirror and hold it. Do I use both pins in the switch or ground one of my leads and use the green wire in the switch? or use both leads and the pins? and what will this test tell us?
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
well the pins in my switch are not able to be seen, so I will have to get a mirror and hold it. Do I use both pins in the switch or ground one of my leads and use the green wire in the switch? or use both leads and the pins? and what will this test tell us?
Use only both pins in the switch. One lead to each pin, one measurement. It is hard to measure but doable.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #45  
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say it reads 0 or close, whats the tell us?
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
say it reads 0 or close, whats the tell us?
That says that there is enough freon in the system to close the switch and that the cycling switch is good.

Put the connector back on the the switch and perform the tests as I posted in post 39.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #47  
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weird thing that happend. My wife called the other day and said her A/C is not working. She got home and her compressor was not engaging. I hooked a gauge up to it and it was reading the high PSI I was getting with the vette. I by chance added freon and it actually turned on and stayed on. I checked the PSI then and it read 10psi with the compresser running. So I added more till it read about 30 and called it a day.

I found it weird it was doing the same thing my vette is doing. Should I try and add freon to mine as well?
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #48  
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Mobile systems leak - no one has invented one that doesn't (which is why the OEM's don't use hydrocarbon blended - flammable - refregerants).

This isn't rocket science, but adding gas requires that you monitor the high and low side pressure and it's easy to get it wrong if you don't. You should also have a pressure/temp chart handy because you'll get different pressures based on the temperature of the air across the Condensor. As an approximation, the high side should be about 2.25 to 2.5 times ambient air temp and with that, the low should fall into place. If you simply look at the low - as you did with your wife's car - you can end up overcharging it. Put too much in it and not only won't it cool properly, it might also start overheating your engine coolant. That's because what's flowing through the Condensor has a temperature. By system design, it should average about 200 to 250 psi which is about 100 to 125 degrees (with subcooling).
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #49  
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thanks. I should get the good lines with the good gauges.
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