4 amp drain on battery-all fuses pulled
some background:
We messed with alot of wiring here which I had my buddy do most of cuz I am not good with electricals. Wiring harness came with engine/trans with comp which "LT1 wiring" checked it out and cleaned it up. Had to connect harness into chassis wiring for gauges and for it to start and shut off properly..
Now I got the alternator tested at autozone which passed... and a brand new battery hoping the old one was not good.
I pulled every fuse possible in the car and I still have 3.5 to 4 amps being drained with the car off.
What could drain it? Can it be a short?
good luck
If the alternator is good, then I would start disconnecting the fuse links. That may lead you to the answer.
some background:
We messed with alot of wiring here which I had my buddy do most of cuz I am not good with electricals. Wiring harness came with engine/trans with comp which "LT1 wiring" checked it out and cleaned it up. Had to connect harness into chassis wiring for gauges and for it to start and shut off properly..
Now I got the alternator tested at autozone which passed... and a brand new battery hoping the old one was not good.
I pulled every fuse possible in the car and I still have 3.5 to 4 amps being drained with the car off.
What could drain it? Can it be a short?
Could be a short... 4 amps isn't a dead short, though because a fuse would go or a fuse link would burn up.
When you say " fuses " and you mean the insert type in the fuse box, you have not disconnected all circuits.
There are fuse links for at least six circuits.
Follow the red Battery (+) wire... [ this will be sort of like taking that red pill in the Marix?].
It will go to a dist. block behind the batt. [ pretty sure .. using a '89 wiring dia?].
Each one of those ringer terminal wires is a Fuse Link.
Alt will be one, Fan motor will be one Blower motor will be one. etc.
Check those and you will find the current draw, or at least which red wire it is on. Traceable if you have a meter . Simple if you have a FSM after that.
What might it be? Sounds like a lamp at 48 watts?
TJM
Last edited by TJM; Oct 26, 2011 at 08:17 AM. Reason: cause
Ur asking cuz it the Diodes that can go bad in alternator and pull a chartge right? Does the AZ test not cover that?
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When you say " fuses " and you mean the insert type in the fuse box, you have not disconnected all circuits.
There are fuse links for at least six circuits.
Follow the red Battery (+) wire... [ this will be sort of like taking that red pill in the Marix?].
It will go to a dist. block behind the batt. [ pretty sure .. using a '89 wiring dia?].
Each one of those ringer terminal wires is a Fuse Link.
Alt will be one, Fan motor will be one Blower motor will be one. etc.
Check those and you will find the current draw, or at least which red wire it is on. Traceable if you have a meter . Simple if you have a FSM after that.
What might it be? Sounds like a lamp at 48 watts?
TJM
Now remove one of the fusable link wires at a time. Figure out which one
causes the current draw to drop when removed. Then use the FSM
to figure out what's powered by that fusible link.
We decided for now to hook a relay on it So it only turns on when the car keys are turned to on















