C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Automatic Door Lock/Unlock

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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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Default Automatic Door Lock/Unlock

Lately when I am driving down a less than smooth road, the door locks will cycle...lock to unlock or unlock to lock.

Just wondering if others have had this problem and what the most probable problem is....door lock switch or drivers' side...on passenger's side.....Body Control Module....????.....

Car is a '95

Last edited by LannyL81; Nov 9, 2011 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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What year?
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Sounds a if a door/ajar switch is make intermittent contact.


I'd start with the switches.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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Are the door-ajar switch even in the lock/unlock circuit?

I'd be thinking of the manual lock/unlock switches first. Try unplugging them, though you may need the remote to get out of the car.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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I added the car year in the original posting.

I do not see why the the door switches would be in the lock circuit....you can cycle the lock with the door open or closed.

I guess I will start with the driver's side door lock switch/wires. I can pull the wires off the back of the switch and drive it for awhile that way and see what occurs.

Hopefully it is just one of the two door lock switches and not in the Body Control Module or wherever the module is that receives the RF signal from the key f.o.b. and cycles the lock. I will also try removing the battery from the key f.o.b. and see what occurs.

Thanks to everyone.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
I added the car year in the original posting.

I do not see why the the door switches would be in the lock circuit....you can cycle the lock with the door open or closed.

I guess I will start with the driver's side door lock switch/wires. I can pull the wires off the back of the switch and drive it for awhile that way and see what occurs.

Hopefully it is just one of the two door lock switches and not in the Body Control Module or wherever the module is that receives the RF signal from the key f.o.b. and cycles the lock. I will also try removing the battery from the key f.o.b. and see what occurs.

Thanks to everyone.
The door switches are somewhat adjustable. The plunger can be pulled out slightly, but do it carefully. A little WD-40 won't hurt.

You can try taping a dime where the plunger meets the b-pillar.

I'd try all this before pulling the door panel.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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Further info: appears to be moisture related. Weather dried-up for a week and no lock cycling going over same roads as before. Now that rain has returned to the desert once again....locks are cycling.

So I am thinking it is one of the door lock switches is getting moisture inside of it which is making contact when vibrated from the rough roads.

I am going to try putting some RTV around each door lock switch and see what happens.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 11:49 PM
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A friend of mine has a 1994. His doors do the exact same thing when he get near some restaurants. It seems that the freuqency that some drive throughs use interfer with the PKE and that locks and unlocks the doors.

You may be right in your case, it may be moisture. But, if both doors are doing it then you may want to try driving a different route to see if it changes.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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It rained most of Sunday and the car was sitting outside. The drive to work this morning was interesting.....
I had the interior lights flashing, the door locks making horrible sounds, and the door adjar light on solid.

I push in the plunger on both door switches several times to see if I could get it to clear...had no luck.

I pulled some fuses out when I got to work so as to not run the battery down with the locks and lights flashing add day......sure hope that the sun dries it is out today.

Water got into something!!!!!!
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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I have a '96 and fixed the same problem. It wasn't the switches (replaced both, pita).

It turned out to be the door stiker was loose, the big smooth bolt on the frame the door catches on. They screw in with a big torx. It allowed the door to wiggle and cause all those lights and locking problem. Check them out.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:21 AM
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I will check the door strikers...but I doubt it.

Sooooo....now the alarm has gone off the past two nights...or I should say mornings...3:00am....first time sitting outside....then a few minutes ago sitting in the garage after being in the sun all day.

Had the door locks making their noises all the way home from work yesterday. Had pulled the interior light fuses, but not the door locks fuse. The lock actuators are not making the full cycle from lock to unlock...they are just groaning. And if I move the door lock switch in either direction when this is going-on...no difference. Once the noise stops I can cycle the locks....but if I lock the doors...they come unlock a few seconds later and then the groaning starts.

Oh yeah...and the Door Adjar light stays on.

Last edited by LannyL81; Nov 16, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:03 AM
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My alarm did the same thing. I discovered the loose striker by pulling on the door and noticed movement actuating the door switch causing freaked out interior lights, locking-unlocking and door ajar. And false alarms at 5:00 am.

Look to see if the paint doesn't match with the big washer on the striker. It could have shifted and not be real loose.

Tighten the strikers down with vice grips (or torx) and extend the switch posts to self adjust on the next close. There is also a switch on the hatch glass under the plastic part but it doesn't fail often.

Last edited by tlong; Nov 15, 2011 at 08:20 AM.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Taking the door switches out is a PITA.....

I removed them both, checked them with my ohm meter and the driver's side switch has resistance instead of zero ohms like the other side.
With the car being 16 yrs old, 137k miles....that is alot of door opening and closing...I am just replacing both switches.....$15 each...not too bad.
I will double check the striker though...just to be sure.

Hopefully this solves the problem. Will find-out in about a week.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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I would start with the simple stuff first. Check out the electronic door switches on both doors. That is the slide switch that you push to lock or unlock the car from inside the car. I have heard some real strange stories about door switches cycling and causing those kind of problems. If that turns out to be the cause consider yourself lucky.

The solenoid for the lock activation in the doors go thru the PKE receiver circuits. The receiver can definitely cause locks to cycle if it goes defective in that part of the circuitry that controls the open and close functions. The door switches on the door even activate the PKE that cycles the locks. Disabling the PKE might give a clue to whether it is part of the problem.

The PKE is centered in the dash and much to take apart to get at it. If appears bad, substitution is the only way to verify if the original is defective.

The body control module as you refer to is really the CCM. It really has nothing to do with door lock operation. However it does interface with the PKE receiver but mainly is for the theft security functions to arm and disarm the security system and to activate key FOB programming.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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I removed the door lock switch wiring harness connector from both lock switches. I was expecting to see water on the cotacts but saw nothing unusual.

I am still waiting for the new door switches to arrive and also hope that this fixes the problem. I know it has something to do with moisture as this problem only occurs after a heavy rain. I put new sealing strips on over a year ago, but appears that water is getting into something. I noticed that the door sill at the striker and the vent were rather wet as was both door switches.

I sure hope it is not the PKE module. I will replace the door switches, but will have to wait for Jan before any rain comes to the desert again.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Just a few thoughts.

* If the door switches were the problem, have you ever noticed the interior lights coming on?

* Put the PKE system into sleep mode and see if there is any change in the symptoms.

* Leave the PKE in operate mode but remove the FOB from your key ring and leave it at home. There might me some weird interaction as it juggles around. See if the symptoms persist.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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See first post about interior lights flashing along with door locks cycling...

Anyways, replaced both door adjar switches. Everything seemed to be fine, no more Door Adjar light, no interior lights flashing, no door locks cycling.....all is good.....but spoke too soon.

Was sitting in the car listening to the radio with engine off; opened driver's door and radio stayed on.....
Opened passenger door, radio shut off......okay...something wrong with new door switch or wiring. Parked car and walked away....no horn honk, alarm did not set, doors did not lock.

Drove to another place, got out and alarm armed & doors locked........okay....now I have an interrmittent problem.

Got the car home and removed driver's door switch....checks good....wirnig looks good as far as I could see.
Got a short piece of wire and jumpered across door switch connector....and the interior lights came on.

LOOKED closer at connector contacts and one side is GREEN....corrision.
Hopefully all I need to do remove the contact...somehow...and clean it.

Saturdays's project.
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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Got ya on the lights.

Good work, go get em tiger.

Never give up on a problem.
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 06:41 AM
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All done. One new switch was defective...it is always open...so ended-up using one of the originals.
But everything working as it should.


Next problem is the leaking rear main oil seal......
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