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oops.. you're right. I was thinking TPS. I don't think the minimal change in IAC had anything to do with it. The reason for a higher IAC is probably because the engine was trying to correct things.
I found this online from a nother guy that had the same problem as you.
Set the iac vs coolant to “0”.
Removed Iac and extended pintle to full out then reinstalled iac (zero iac air)
Started engine and set to desired idle at normal operating temp.
Reburned chip for desired command idle vs temp –25rpm at normal operating temp. this keeps iac at zero steps.
Changed iac vs coolants steps for just the cold coolant settings and left others at zero.
I just looked at tuner cat.. and there are the 3 different IAC tables. IAC vs coolant temp in gear .. IAC vs coolant temp out of gear ... and IAC Park Position vs coolant temp (i'm guessing the park position is the one that guy is referring to in your quote?)
Mine isn't stalling at idle like his. His problem was with Idle, which is controlled by the IAC. My problem is when I give it gas (which the IAC doesn't do anything then since the butterfly's are open then).
I would suggest going back to a chip you know worked before and see if it fixes the problem.
Also check your SP wires. They can really screw things up! Good luck, keep us posted.
I haven't changed the program in a long while (month or two), and this has just recently started.
And some good news.. i let my car fully warm up today before driving it.. NO PROBLEMS> I think it may very well be what Chris was talking about... the lack of back pressure and cold pipes.