Rear Main Seal Replacement Ahead....Hints??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Update 12/28
Got the 12mm hex driver bit to remove the pivot stud....bell housing came off with some twisting.....did not know that there was a shim between the bell housing and the engine block...bent it a bit...but not bad.
Anyways, took clutch and DMF out.
Removed the rear main seal...yep it was leaking. And there is a difference between the National and the FelPro seals. And the funny thing is that stamped on the FelPro one is National....but with a different part number than the National seal.....go figure.....
New seal is in....actually quite easy.
Now I just need to put everything back together....
Anyways, took clutch and DMF out.
Removed the rear main seal...yep it was leaking. And there is a difference between the National and the FelPro seals. And the funny thing is that stamped on the FelPro one is National....but with a different part number than the National seal.....go figure.....
New seal is in....actually quite easy.
Now I just need to put everything back together....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 2
From: California City Ca
Pete right once again.
Well Pete your right once again I wish I knew this before I built the motor I thought Fel-Pro were good gaskets LOL.
Yep I tryed just about everything it must be the rear main seal leaking oil Oh what Fun.
You said use just about any other brand for a main seal but Fel-Pro the qustion I have is the pan gasket do I stay away from Fel-Pro I still have a spare 1 piece oil pan gasket in the box never been open is any good it also a Fel-Pro product or should I use anouther brand of gasket there also.
There Is a Fel-Pro pan Gasket on it now same for the timing cover gasket or seal it's weeping also.
Yep I tryed just about everything it must be the rear main seal leaking oil Oh what Fun.
You said use just about any other brand for a main seal but Fel-Pro the qustion I have is the pan gasket do I stay away from Fel-Pro I still have a spare 1 piece oil pan gasket in the box never been open is any good it also a Fel-Pro product or should I use anouther brand of gasket there also.
There Is a Fel-Pro pan Gasket on it now same for the timing cover gasket or seal it's weeping also.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
FelPro 1 Piece Oil Pan Gasket Problem
I went through 3 oil pan gaskets trying to fix an oil leak...until I finally figured-out the problem was the gasket.
You can probably do a search for this to find the orignal thread, but the problem is the rear two washers in the 1 piece oil pan gasket are not large enough to pass over the 1 piece rear main seal carrier studs...thus there is a gap...which of course is an oil leakl...a big oil leak.
You can use the FelPro 1 piece oil pan gasket....just remove the rear washers on both sides so that it fits over the rear main seal carrier studs....and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
LannyL81
You can probably do a search for this to find the orignal thread, but the problem is the rear two washers in the 1 piece oil pan gasket are not large enough to pass over the 1 piece rear main seal carrier studs...thus there is a gap...which of course is an oil leakl...a big oil leak.
You can use the FelPro 1 piece oil pan gasket....just remove the rear washers on both sides so that it fits over the rear main seal carrier studs....and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
LannyL81
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 2
From: California City Ca
I have the 1/8 stiffener plate between the bolt heads and the oil pan the one that comes on the stock pan.
It's not a stock pan it has the 8-qt pan and they are not fun getting to the bolts heads with the motor in the car.
I think I going to do the rear main seal first after I find a good one thats not know to leak LOL.
And put in a higher stall converter as long I have t pull the trans I have a 2500 now I want a 3000 Stall so I can get out hole harder.
I need to find a great 3000 stall lock converter that wont break the bank
.
It's not a stock pan it has the 8-qt pan and they are not fun getting to the bolts heads with the motor in the car.
I think I going to do the rear main seal first after I find a good one thats not know to leak LOL.
And put in a higher stall converter as long I have t pull the trans I have a 2500 now I want a 3000 Stall so I can get out hole harder.
I need to find a great 3000 stall lock converter that wont break the bank
.I went through 3 oil pan gaskets trying to fix an oil leak...until I finally figured-out the problem was the gasket.
You can probably do a search for this to find the original thread, but the problem is the rear two washers in the 1 piece oil pan gasket are not large enough to pass over the 1 piece rear main seal carrier studs...thus there is a gap...which of course is an oil leakl...a big oil leak.
You can use the FelPro 1 piece oil pan gasket....just remove the rear washers on both sides so that it fits over the rear main seal carrier studs....and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
LannyL81
You can probably do a search for this to find the original thread, but the problem is the rear two washers in the 1 piece oil pan gasket are not large enough to pass over the 1 piece rear main seal carrier studs...thus there is a gap...which of course is an oil leakl...a big oil leak.
You can use the FelPro 1 piece oil pan gasket....just remove the rear washers on both sides so that it fits over the rear main seal carrier studs....and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
LannyL81
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Sooooo.....I replaced the rear main seal yesterday and that was as far as I got. Came back a few hours later to find oil had dripped onto the floor....from between the oil pan gasket and rear main seal carrier 
So either the oil leak has been and still is the oil pan or I have deformed the oil pan just enough due to supporting the engine.
Whatever....once I get the transmission and C-beam back in, guess I will take the oil pan off (again). I had put a bead of RTV along this interface the last time I "fixed" the oil leak, but it is still dripping.
So either the oil leak has been and still is the oil pan or I have deformed the oil pan just enough due to supporting the engine.Whatever....once I get the transmission and C-beam back in, guess I will take the oil pan off (again). I had put a bead of RTV along this interface the last time I "fixed" the oil leak, but it is still dripping.
Last edited by LannyL81; Jan 5, 2012 at 01:39 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
Ensure the rear studs in are fully seated in the rear main seal before installing the pan and gasket.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
I have always used Permatex Black RTV, had no problems...until this oil leak.
Wish I could drop the oil pan now, but have no way of supporting the rear of the engine. I sold my shop crane/engine lift a couple of years ago....sure be nice to have it now.
At least now I know where the leak is....and besides it has been alot of fun removing the drivesaft, C-beam transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel....laying on my back on that nice cool concrete....what better way to spend my holidays........
I will give "The Right Stuff" a try and also check the rear main seal carrier studs.
Going to be another week before I get to this though.
Wish I could drop the oil pan now, but have no way of supporting the rear of the engine. I sold my shop crane/engine lift a couple of years ago....sure be nice to have it now.
At least now I know where the leak is....and besides it has been alot of fun removing the drivesaft, C-beam transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel....laying on my back on that nice cool concrete....what better way to spend my holidays........
I will give "The Right Stuff" a try and also check the rear main seal carrier studs.
Going to be another week before I get to this though.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
I have always used Permatex Black RTV, had no problems...until this oil leak.
Wish I could drop the oil pan now, but have no way of supporting the rear of the engine. I sold my shop crane/engine lift a couple of years ago....sure be nice to have it now.
At least now I know where the leak is....and besides it has been alot of fun removing the drivesaft, C-beam transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel....laying on my back on that nice cool concrete....what better way to spend my holidays........
I will give "The Right Stuff" a try and also check the rear main seal carrier studs.
Going to be another week before I get to this though.
Wish I could drop the oil pan now, but have no way of supporting the rear of the engine. I sold my shop crane/engine lift a couple of years ago....sure be nice to have it now.
At least now I know where the leak is....and besides it has been alot of fun removing the drivesaft, C-beam transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel....laying on my back on that nice cool concrete....what better way to spend my holidays........
I will give "The Right Stuff" a try and also check the rear main seal carrier studs.
Going to be another week before I get to this though.
I clean the sealing surfaces with wax & grease remover before application. I also use this stuff when replacing intake gaskets for the "china wall". Haven't seen a repeat leak in years.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Jan 2, 2012 at 02:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Everything back together and oil leak still present...still drips out between flywheel/clutch housing and cover plate. Have not even started the engine and it is dripping.
So appears that is has always been the back of the oil pan. So when it is time for an oil change I will drop the pan and seal the entire radius around the rear main seal carrier AGAIN....this time I will use The Right Stuff.
Oh well...now I know how to remove the C-beam, driveshaft, tramsmission, flywheel housing, clutch, flywheel from my '95.
Lesson overwith....for now.
So appears that is has always been the back of the oil pan. So when it is time for an oil change I will drop the pan and seal the entire radius around the rear main seal carrier AGAIN....this time I will use The Right Stuff.
Oh well...now I know how to remove the C-beam, driveshaft, tramsmission, flywheel housing, clutch, flywheel from my '95.
Lesson overwith....for now.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
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From: Texas
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
I have decided that I am going to wait to drop the oil pan until it is oil change time...coming-up in the near future. No reason to waste the oil. Not sure when this will be though....changed jobs and may not be driving as much...or may be driving more....have to see what happens.
Later...
Later...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 2
From: California City Ca
If you have a stock type pan it will be easy, <My pan has kick out on both sides so it was harder but it not all that bad.
I was going to get the Right stuff RTV the reason I did not use it the tube said it starts t set up in 1 minute.
Even with all th right tool there no way I could run a bead of sealent get the pan in and get the botls started in 1 minute with the motor in the car.
I was going to get the Right stuff RTV the reason I did not use it the tube said it starts t set up in 1 minute.
Even with all th right tool there no way I could run a bead of sealent get the pan in and get the botls started in 1 minute with the motor in the car.
I have decided that I am going to wait to drop the oil pan until it is oil change time...coming-up in the near future. No reason to waste the oil. Not sure when this will be though....changed jobs and may not be driving as much...or may be driving more....have to see what happens.
Later...
Later...
Le Mans Master
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From: Akron Ohio
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Lanny,
Where did you get your National rear main seal? I cannot find one, and an online search of the 4397V part number brings up nothing.
Thanks.
Where did you get your National rear main seal? I cannot find one, and an online search of the 4397V part number brings up nothing.
Thanks.
