So 12/22 is my last day of work until Jan 8....so going to replace the leaking rear main seal in my '95 6sp....really tired of the oil spots in the driveway and all.

So any hints, suggestions, lessons learned...that anyone cares to pass along to me?
I have the FSM.
I have never removed a trans from a C4 before...other cars yes...but not a C4.

In looking at the FSM figures; is there a trick in getting the flywheel housing off? The figures show the release bearing between the clutch disc and pressure plate...is this correct? Does the clutch fork come out with the flyhweel housing or stay?

This is a bit different from my '81....

See bottom of this thread for the problems I have encountered.........

Thanks in advance

 

Going from memory when I replaced the clutch, throw out bearing, etc in my '92 Roadster the fork had to be removed to get the clutch plate off. It took a large allen wrench to remove it. As far as removing the tranny - after jacking and blocking the car (Stabilize it on 4 corners of the frame not the wheels or suspension) i had to remove the exhaust and frame crossmembers. This maybe because mine is a convertable. I had to do something to the rear axle to keep it stabilized while I removed the torque arm between the Tranny and read differential but i can't remember what I did. The FSM should explain it though. Then I removed the driveshaft, upper transmission crap, and tranny itsself to get to the bell housing. I dont remember if the starter had to be removed but maybe I did. The rest is unknown by me from there as I didn't remove the flywheel. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

Don't by Fel-Pro gasket or seal.

 

Great....of course that is what I did.!!!

So tell me why not and what to get.....

 

Make sure that the crank is clean as well as the RMS housing. Lube the crank lightly with clean oil as well as the new seal (the part that actually rides on the crank). Cleanliness is key.

Also make sure to look at the crank and see if there has been a groove worn into the crank. Sometimes there is one, and if bad enough may require a sleeve.

Buy a National oil seal. You should be able to find them at any local parts store.

 

It's not necessary to remove the clutch fork. Simply rotate the bellhousing to remove it. Having said that, assuming the pivot ball stud isn't frozen, removal of the fork is just as easy.

The steps are straight forward...

Disconnect the battery.

Inside the car
- Transmission in neutral
- Remove the shifter ****
- Remove the center glove box door
- Remove the center console trim plate
- Remove the 4 acorn nuts that secure the rubber shifter boot to the transmission

Outside the car
- Remove the exhaust from the cats back
- Remove the C-beam bolts
- Slide the rear of the c-beam to one side just enough to allow removal of the driveshaft. Do not pop the c-beam completely free of the differential
- Support the transmission and remove the c-beam
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing. It can dangle from the line or zip tie it out of the way (preferred)
- Remove the starter
- Remove the electrical connectors from the transmission
- Allow the transmission and engine to tip back slightly. Be careful not to the let the engine tip all the way back as it may impact the firewall or damage wiring
- Support the engine with another jack and a large square block of wood under the oil pan to distribute the load.
- Unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing
- Remove the transmission
- Remove the bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel
- Remove the engine mount nuts and the diagonal frame braces (provides added clearance when reinstalling the oil pan, but not 100% required)
- Remove the oil pan, oil filter
- R&R rear main seal.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above.

I'm going from memory, but those are all the major and most of the minor steps. Have the FSM handy.

The ZF6 is heavy and a bit awkward....~140 lbs IIRC..., so be prepared.

Always recommended to replace the flywheel bolts with new ones although many do not.

Most time-consuming task is removing and installing the c-beam bolts. It's a matter of angles and figuring out how to reach/hold the nuts on top, for loosening for removal and tightening to installation.

Should take 3-6 hours.

Be sure to apply RTV in the corners before installing the oil pan. Also use a *thin* layer of RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket to ensure a leak free install. "The Right Stuff" is the best thing to use. YMMV with anything else.

 

Because they are junk, and any brand other than Fel-Pro.

 

Thats great I used Fel Pro when I put my motor together so I guess something else to look foward to in the Future is changing out the rear main seal On the bright side it will give me a reason to put a higher stall convertor in LOL.

I already been chasing a ol leak under the car that I can't find.

 

Pete, What's going on with Fel-pro?? You had one leak on your motor and I have read at least 2 other instances of rear main leakage after installing Fel-pro seals...WW

 

Not sure. I suspect they changed suppliers, or went overseas. Quality went from one of the best, to worst.

 

That may be the reason for my Opti oil seal leak.

 

How recent was this? I've used Felpro for years and never had a problem.

 

I missed the starter step somehow in the FSM and could not for the life of me figure out why the bellhousing would not rotate and release the fork. After removing the starter, it came out easy without removing the fork.

 

National shows two seals:
1) PFTE Rubber
2) Fluoroelastomer


which one for a daily driver??

 

Number 2 should be your number 1 choice

Fluoroelastomer seal is the heavy duty (HD) version of the same seal.

As far as the "gasket" goes (regardless of what the manufacturers instructions say) I use a super thin layer of gasket sealer on Failpro gaskets before install....note - this does not include the rear main "seal" itself.

 

Have National 4397V rear main seal. That was the easy part....

Took 2 hours to get the shift **** off...manual trans....key just would not come out. Could not find my needle nose locking pliers...so had to go get new ones. Came out...but I sure messed it up this time.

Next was the exhaust system...it would not come off the passenger side cat..no way, no how. Ended-up removing the passenger side cat along with entire exhaust system. Found that I was missing a bolt to the exhaust manifold anyways.

The rear C beam bolts came out pretty easy. Front ones took a bit more effort...but they still got them out. Removed driveshaft and of course had transmisson oil come out....so had to clean that up before I laid in it.

So now I have my trans jack under the trans and another floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.

Going to call it a day....that concrete garage floor sure is cold and my back has had enough for one day.

I'll tackle the transmisson, C beam and clutch housing tomorrow....maybe.

 

Welcome to the world of C4's LOL we feel your pain been there done that.

 

Going to replace the driveshaft U joints since I have it out. As far as I know they are original and have 138k miles on them. In checking them, all caps turn...some not so easy, but they will all turn at least. Already did the half shaft earlier this year.
Wife is already complaining that "I thought this would only take you two days".....geeze!!!!

 

Wifes LOL ya we know.

The Famous saying from Criss Rock, (OJ we dont agree what you did but we understand why).

 

Well...got the trans (6sp) to come out this morning. Had to keep raising the car higher in order to get it and my trans jack from under the car...wow is that thing sitting high....
I did end-up breaking the back-up lamp switch...*!%^$*)@!!

Anyways got stuck trying to get the clutch/flywheel (bell) housing off. Can not get the fork to come out of the release bearing. I have tried ZF Doc's procedure...but he also says that it may be necessary to remove the pivot stud. Well....I could do that...IF I had a 12mm hex driver...but I do not and have not been able to find one today. So it looks like I am done until Monday...unless someone has some suggestions on getting that housing off........

I have no idea how many miles are on this clutch; will be measuring the disc thickness once I get it off. May be putting a new clutch in that I was not planning on doing.

Oh well.....